inline intercoolers???
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if you can stack them side by side maybe have them welded together and a set of new tanks put on. I grabbed a couple audi 900 IC'c just for that. at $30 a pop they make a nice sized medium IC and if you fab the AL tanks yourself welding prices won't be soo bad
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Anonymous
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A buddy of mine and I did a ghetto set-up with two completely different intercoolers (size and shape) we just split the ducting so they would flow in parallel.
Air always travels the path of least resistance.....we just needed enough intercooler capacity to work for a larger engine.
Air always travels the path of least resistance.....we just needed enough intercooler capacity to work for a larger engine.
G
Guest
Guest
Couldnt a Volvo work nicely? Theyre great for 2.3T projects, and big enough to charge the air decently. Theyre all over the junkyards too, get a clean one.
Some people even mount them underneath the car, parallel with the ground. Great way to fit a bigger one if you apply only for racing. Otherwise they can get damaged in daily use.
You can jus mount it in front of the radiator as well.
That is a good price, though Im not too familiar with the brand. Depends on the dimensions, compared to the Volvo.
VIVA VOLVO!
Some people even mount them underneath the car, parallel with the ground. Great way to fit a bigger one if you apply only for racing. Otherwise they can get damaged in daily use.
You can jus mount it in front of the radiator as well.
That is a good price, though Im not too familiar with the brand. Depends on the dimensions, compared to the Volvo.
VIVA VOLVO!
Bigger ain't always better. A small, well placed intercooler would be better than multiple large ones in a poor location. The IC in my Mazdaspeed looks little, but it took a LOT of testing for some companies to come up with a truly better replacement. It's well matched to the power and airflow of my engine.
And there is a point of diminishing returns as well. Even if an intercooler wer 100% efficient, you can never cool the charge air less than the cooling medium. At some point all you are doing is adding complexity and impeding airflow.
And there is a point of diminishing returns as well. Even if an intercooler wer 100% efficient, you can never cool the charge air less than the cooling medium. At some point all you are doing is adding complexity and impeding airflow.
G
Guest
Guest
I agree only one is necessary. The two top placements for an air to air is (a), in front of the radiator, or (b) for racing purposes, parallel to the ground, to suck up that cool air thats low.
Cooler=denser air. Denser charge=more hp with proper fuel/air mix. You dont necessarilly have to put two IC's together to get a good charge.
I would NEVER personally run cast pistons on a T engine, but there are people on the board that do, with great results.
I had special forged pistons in my Merkur XR4TI, and blew a hole at the edge of the pistons, at the rings. I was around, or under 20 PSI in decently cool conditions. All other parts in the motor were fine. I can only imagine what a cast piston would have done to the rest of the motor. Drop one from chest length on cement, sometimes they break like glass. Ive pressed enough pins out to whip a few around and watch results hehe.
Keep the engine low-compression, due to the heightened compression under boost. If you think a high compression motor will fare well with boost, think again.
These guys know a fair compression ratio for your application, I dont know the 200-250 as well as they do. Im only ASSUMING it be aroud 8:1 or slightly lower with 10 PSI or more boost.
OK, all of this coming from a Ford OHC 2.3 Turbo ex-nut. Ask, and theyll help you the rest of the way. I had one 60 HP/CYL, and my old, old one almost 70 HP/CYL.
Cooler=denser air. Denser charge=more hp with proper fuel/air mix. You dont necessarilly have to put two IC's together to get a good charge.
I would NEVER personally run cast pistons on a T engine, but there are people on the board that do, with great results.
I had special forged pistons in my Merkur XR4TI, and blew a hole at the edge of the pistons, at the rings. I was around, or under 20 PSI in decently cool conditions. All other parts in the motor were fine. I can only imagine what a cast piston would have done to the rest of the motor. Drop one from chest length on cement, sometimes they break like glass. Ive pressed enough pins out to whip a few around and watch results hehe.
Keep the engine low-compression, due to the heightened compression under boost. If you think a high compression motor will fare well with boost, think again.
These guys know a fair compression ratio for your application, I dont know the 200-250 as well as they do. Im only ASSUMING it be aroud 8:1 or slightly lower with 10 PSI or more boost.
OK, all of this coming from a Ford OHC 2.3 Turbo ex-nut. Ask, and theyll help you the rest of the way. I had one 60 HP/CYL, and my old, old one almost 70 HP/CYL.
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Anonymous
Guest
It all depends on the tune - you can run 13:1 compresion with 30 pounds of boost if you can keep temps down and don't detonate it.
Easier said than done, though....
When tuning for max potential, always start low boost/low timing/ rich fuel and add boost/timing/lean it as you tune progressively.
So far, my cast pistons (minus the two cracked ones I replaced) have had numerous 20+ psi runs on them. Just keep it rich and stay conservative on timing. Forged is better (and I do have forged pistons available) but I have so many stock 200's I am just experimenting on what they can do.
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Easier said than done, though....
When tuning for max potential, always start low boost/low timing/ rich fuel and add boost/timing/lean it as you tune progressively.
So far, my cast pistons (minus the two cracked ones I replaced) have had numerous 20+ psi runs on them. Just keep it rich and stay conservative on timing. Forged is better (and I do have forged pistons available) but I have so many stock 200's I am just experimenting on what they can do.
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Anonymous
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MustangSix":3mdw4jzf said:
I do know of one Outlaw Mustang guy that runs the boost ( I think 270* F? ) through an air-to-air to get most of the heat out, before running through an ice water intercooler.
G
Guest
Guest
Thats actually pretty clever of your friend. *mental note*.
Sometimes volume of IC=delay or lack of proper air intake source. That also depends on where the inlet is, and at what speed ones traveling at compared to the location of the cool air inlet. If its some sort of homemade "ram air" (as I had), it can increase flow considerably to the IC and turbo.
I think using the cool air inlet through the fenderwall is primarilly for non-race applications. Also, ANYTHING that resides in the engine compartment, concerning cool air intake inlet is GARBAGE!. What a horrible source for cool air!
Something low (cooler air down there) and just behind the front skirt, but direct to open, low air is extremely useable, and draws an EXTREMELY cool charge. Drawing that air makes a HUGE difference. "Heat Rises", so cool is low. Of course, you could possibly also have an a/b bypass to run tubing to the fenderwell for safety of water, debris, etc in more standardized driving. Just make another piece to fit the fenderwell setup, another K&N (I hate saying their name, for ricer reference) and swap tubing.
Essentially youd have 2 K&Ns, one located under the front skirt, another in the fenderwell. Strip and Street. Just switch tubing for applications. My little idea.
The low cool air inlet is also not good for large lake-like puddles when you cant see out the windshield, as I found out. I got lucky, no hydraulic-ing of the motor, not even a slight bend in any rods. Pushed it backwards in 1st gear, threw the water right out of the intake. It was FULL! Gak!
Sometimes volume of IC=delay or lack of proper air intake source. That also depends on where the inlet is, and at what speed ones traveling at compared to the location of the cool air inlet. If its some sort of homemade "ram air" (as I had), it can increase flow considerably to the IC and turbo.
I think using the cool air inlet through the fenderwall is primarilly for non-race applications. Also, ANYTHING that resides in the engine compartment, concerning cool air intake inlet is GARBAGE!. What a horrible source for cool air!
Something low (cooler air down there) and just behind the front skirt, but direct to open, low air is extremely useable, and draws an EXTREMELY cool charge. Drawing that air makes a HUGE difference. "Heat Rises", so cool is low. Of course, you could possibly also have an a/b bypass to run tubing to the fenderwell for safety of water, debris, etc in more standardized driving. Just make another piece to fit the fenderwell setup, another K&N (I hate saying their name, for ricer reference) and swap tubing.
Essentially youd have 2 K&Ns, one located under the front skirt, another in the fenderwell. Strip and Street. Just switch tubing for applications. My little idea.
The low cool air inlet is also not good for large lake-like puddles when you cant see out the windshield, as I found out. I got lucky, no hydraulic-ing of the motor, not even a slight bend in any rods. Pushed it backwards in 1st gear, threw the water right out of the intake. It was FULL! Gak!
They do make bypasses for cold-air intakes. It takes the place of a rubber joint. http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/aem_bypass_valves/
Work well from what I've seen.
Work well from what I've seen.
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