Installing Distributor

[james singleton]

Question on re-installing my dizzy (Load-A-Matic). With engine @ TDC, I made marks prior to removing the dizzy; I marked the postion of the rotor pointed at the #1 spark plug wire on the dizzy cap & body, and also made a mark on engine body. In trying to re-install the dizzy I ended up turning the the engine over by hand, so I then had to turn/crank the engine back so that the timing notch on the pulley/dampner was back @ TDC, and I have the rotor, cap, and everything lined up the way it was when I removed the dizzy (and the top of piston is at the top of the compression stroke). My dizzy only partially wants to mesh with the cam gear when I try re-installing the dizzy and I read this in my manual: "IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE STARTER, AFTER THE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR IS PARTIALLY ENGAGED, IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THE OIL PUMP INTERMEDIATE SHAFT." Have any of you out there had to do this? That is start your motor while the dizzy is only partially engaged with the cam. I am leery about doing this and I sure DO NOT wish to ruin the gears!!!! I have installed this same dizzy in this engine several times and not had a problem with the gears meshing; not quite sure why the dizzy does not want to mesh? It is a new engine, so the cam is new. Thanks, Jim

 

[james singleton]

No sooner had I posted the above question, when it came to me why the dizzy does not want to go down all the way. Possibly by turning the engine over when the dizzy was not exactly lined-up in the TDC position I changed the position of the oil pump intermediate shaft; and now that I have all the marks lined up with TDC and all, the oil pump shaft is in a different position!? Make sense? Still, I would like to know if anyone has done what the manual said to do if the engine was disturbed (start it with the distributor drive gear partially engaged....)? Thanks Again, Jim

 

[matt1967]

sometimes you have to turn the oil pump drive a little, so it will line up.

 

[JackFish]

There's a bit of wiggle room there, and I have been able to get the dizzy to drop down by rocking the pulleys back and forth just a little bit by hand.
You could also try to put a wrench on the crank bolt if there is room.
Also, you have to line the dizzy up a bit clockwise from where you want the gears to mesh because it rotates as it drops.

 

[james singleton]

Just a follow-up here, as far as getting my dizzy reinstalled and the timing back on track. With the dizzy removed, I used a 5/16" socket with extension and turned the oil pump shaft a few times before I got it lined up enough for the dizzy to slide down onto the shaft! The engine started right up! I reset the timing (10* BTDC) and adjusted the carb a little. I reset my plugs to .045" (from .044") while they were out; I installed a Pertronix l ignition a week or so again. It seems to be running good! Thanks Guys, Jim

 

[james singleton]

Just a follow-up here, as far as getting my dizzy reinstalled and the timing back on track. With the dizzy removed, I used a 5/16" socket with extension and turned the oil pump shaft a few times before I got it lined up enough for the dizzy to slide down onto the shaft! The engine started right up! I reset the timing (10* BTDC) and adjusted the carb a little. I reset my plugs to .045" (from .044") when they were out; I installed a Pertronix l ignition a week or so again. It seems to be running good! Thanks Guys, Jim

 

[AZstang66]

take out the spark plugs and use the fan to turn over the engine. you can also check #1 to make sure you're on TDC. when i replace/install distibutors, it sometimes takes 1-50 tries to get it in. just keep pulling it out and putting it back in. if it slides all the way in, to about 1cm left to go, you have probably cleared the cam. try turning the fan a bit to get the dizzy to rotate so it slides onto the oil pump shaft.