Installing Flexplate, I have no clue what to do

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Anonymous

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I just got my engine back from the shop and im not to sure how to install the flexplate on my 200. I didnt take it off (i let them do it) so i dont know how it was put on. Do i need washers inbetween the plate and the bolts? Also, should i put any more sealer anywhere to make sure the rear main doesnt leak before i bolt up the flexplate? I also found some type of small, circle spacer, does it go on the outside of the flexplate or on the inside? Thanks so much guys.
 
While I can't speak to the sealer (I didn't add any), I can tell you the flexplate goes on first, then the spacer (toward the rear of the car), then the bolts. Take note: the bolt holes are not equidistant -- the spacer and flexplate only bolts up one way.

best,
--tom
 
not sure about washers (I row gears) but you do need sealer on them. look at the spacer.....is there any markings from a lock washer on them? what about a large circular pattern?
 
There are no washers on the bolts. Use thread loctite and torque to 75-85 ft. lbs. Make sure you have the correct bolts and the torque ring over the flexplate. There have been several people on this board and others who had major nightmares after the bolts backed out due to wear or improper torquing. Tor;que convertor should be tightened to 25-35 ft. lbs. Keep spining the crank and use the hole for the starter area to access the bolts.
 
I might be missing something here, but I don't remember a "Torque ring" over the flexplate. What is this peice. What happens if you don't have one?
 
One more question, what about the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flexplate.. I believe I have misplaced mine, where could I get some more?? Do i need any special ones, or any certain grade? Also, does anyone know the size so I can just pick them up at the store? I believe they are a fine thread, but im not sure...
 
You can get a six-pack of bolts in the bubble package at any parts store. They should be 7/16" fine thread.

Advance auto has 'em:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... umber=6711

6711.jpg
 
Stock bolts were 7/16" head with a 15/16" shaft, grade 8. You cannot find this size in normal hardware stores as they are 1" long and they will bottom out. Also, the 250 and V8 bolts were larger and will not fit correctly into the recess where the torque ring sits. You will have problems getting the socket over the head.

I contacted ARP sometime ago and they told me that the Chevy flexplate bolts are exactly the same size. I have lost however the correct part number so you may want to contact them. I do not know what the impact of the shorter length on the Mr. Gasket bolts would be. 1/8" shorter might be significant in keepint them torqued in there properly.
 
kukm66":369073gq said:
1/8" shorter might be significant in keepint them torqued in there properly.

It isn't significant.

Generally speaking, most Flexplates use 3/4 length bolts while most manual flywheels use 1"

As far as a bolt being 1/8th shorter....if it is good enough for a 800 HP 351W, it'll be good enough for your little six!!
 
Well, considering my "little six" will have a 400 shot of NOS and have about 900 HP at the flywheel, I might opt for the 1/8 inch longer. ;)

Im kidding of course. Thanks for your help guys, My engine is now in, and bolted together.

Hopefully itll run as well as I hope.
 
Weird.....I pulled apart my '82 engine yesterday, and another '83 model 200 today (I had to rob 1 piston from it)
and the little ring was between the crank and flexplate on both engines.

Neither one has been messed with since the factory.....
 
well now that my engine is in, do i need to remove it and switch the order?
 
ihavea68stang":w2wnyyw5 said:
well now that my engine is in, do i need to remove it and switch the order?

No, I think ford just did things different in the '80s
 
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