Installing the Tri-Power, Hand Choke and Cable w/ Pics

60s Refugee

Well-known member
It didn't take very long to realize that I needed a choke. Even with the carbs and linkage tweeked, it was all but impossible to drive the car after a cold start. I didn't want to fool around trying to get an automatic choke to work when I knew how well a hand choke works. Besides, there just wasn't any place for a heat riser tube. I never had much luck with electric chokes either. I used parts from a new kit I bought at Auto Zone and a bracket from a Holley 4bbl conversion kit I had laying around.

First, I needed a place to put the knob under the dash. There were already two holes right next to the fog light switch. Since I only have a left hand, that is the ideal spot! Here's a pic. Don't let that long bolt worry you, it's already been cut off!

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I slid the cable out through the fire wall along the steering column. It easily slid out between the rubber seal and the tube and is really the ideal location for where it needs to run considering both the inside car and outside car route. In this pic you can see it coming through below the master cylinder. Don't confuse it with all those brake lines and stuff!

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Next, the cable had to be secured to the center carb. I discarded the choke cover/spring thing and used the upper left hole where the cover screw was threaded in. I took the bracket, drilled a mounting hole in it, and bent a tab down to prevent the bracket from rotating. The tab fits snuggly against the inside of the housing and when bolted tight there is no movement in any direction. The cable was just the right length and I only had to trim off about 4" of the pull wire. I turned two loops in the wire to form a short coil to fit over the choke shaft crank lever. The tab on the lever is plenty long enough to heep the cable from falling or being pulled off. I adjusted the throw, and tightened both bolts.

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The result is as expected! It is now possible to drive the car after start up. Even with the warm weather we've been having here it has been almost impossible to get a good idle when engine is cold. It doesn't take very long to warm up enough to open the butterfly and after that the cable keeps the choke open without having to keep adjusting it (I once had a hand choke that would close itself as you drove! You had to keep pushing it in all the time). Here's a pic of the finished look.

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Don't be afraid to try this at home :D !

Harry
 
cool,, my manual choke was installed in the glovey (glove box),, ran under the right side export brace, kinda hidden...

wish i could afford 3 carbs.

rick
 
I've got three that I'll GIVE you when I get some Webers or another Autolite! :D. One is a Motorcraft 1940, the others being the Holley 1904's. We like you guys up north though, and I'd hate to create an international incident by sending you junk! Of course, it ain't just the carbs you need, it's all that stuff they bolt onto! ;)

Glove box, didn't think of that.

Harry
 
yeah, the carbs need a place to sit, then new exhaust to spent it out, then, then,then,lol....

i will stick with my little single i have, its working really good. :unsure:
 
You DO realize that if the carb originally had an auto choke on it, that you're now sucking dirty unfiltered air into the carb & engine through the vacuum pull down piston opening, right? :cry:
Under the black bakelite cover, the piston that pulled the choke open upon first starting uses vacuum..... That's how the hot air gets pulled to the choke spring to uncoil the spring on warmup.
I noticed that nobody mentioned that.
Trying to help,
 
Yeah, and then when the choke is open, you are STILL pulling hot unfiltered air into the carb throat. Did anybody realize that? It's how the spring stays hot.
 
Yes, I realized that. I plugged the hole in the choke housing and also used a gasket with no hole to block the carb base passage. I pugged it by hand cutting a gasket for the joint between the housing and the carb with a hole for the bolt only. You can see the gasket in the pic showing the driver side close up of the choke.

The idle problem seems to be an out rigger carb issue, since I can achieve a normal idle by eliminating the outer carbs and closing the two carb holes in the manifold with plates.

The manual choke works fine, except that the cable gradually got hard to pull and push. I oiled it and that fixed it. Cheap cable! I'll be looking for a better one.

Harry
 
You probably have a vacuum leak in the idle circuit if you blocked the ports and it still runs rough.

BTW, the unfiltered air through that little bitty hole is probably less destructive than those hot, oily crankcase vapors to air filter. Just pointing out.
 
I get good idle with just the center carb. That means that at least that assembly must be OK. I get the crummy idle when I install the outer carbs. It's rough as a cob and needs to be adjusted too high to maintain idle in gear. I have turned the idle screws all the way in on them. I also get a fuel leak past the float needle valve in Alpha carb. Even though I rebuilt them and have reset the float numerous times. My fuel pressure is unregulated and apparently those 1904's need lower pressure.

The linkage is tweeked and at speeds above idle the set up works REAL good.

I think my answer is in different outer carbs. I'm still trying to find another cheap Autolite 1100 to rebuild. If those don't get it, then it's Weber time. I hate to think about Weberizing 'cuz it just ain't American!

Harry
 
Are you turning the idle speed screw or the idle fuel mix screw? Because the one leaves the idle circuit open. I believe you can crank the air/fuel mix down all the way and block any fuel from that source. I wonder if you are getting some vac leak higher up on the carb than the base plate?
 
The outer carbs have every potentual vac leak plugged, except that the SCV diaphrams are still there. The SCV port is plugged, the power valve plugged, no leaks in the manifold. The accelerator pumps are hooked up and functioning. I get a good balance between the idle screw and the mixture screw (the sweet spot seems to be 1 3/4 turns out), but again, when the outer carbs are added it becomes impossible (at least for me) to get a nice 750 RPM idle. I bet there is a vac leak I haven't considered. The fast idle screw works fine when choke is pulled, but you sometimes hafta' touch the gas pedal for it to notch in. The engine runs much better when warmed up, but that's true for most any engine.

The timing is good also. Its set right at the spot where there is an ever so slight ping when really getting into it, none on regular accelleration. This while running on 87 octane.

I'm not confusing rough idle with cam lope either. It has a nice mild lope at 750 RPM, when using just the center carb and the outers removed and plugged.

Another symptom is that with the outer carbs installed I get a lot more nasty exhaust fumes. But even then, at highway speed you'd not think anything is wrong. The outers kick in strong when you tromp on it.

Right now I just keep tweeking the settings, but haven't had any real improvement lately. Lubing the linkage reduced the pedal effort some, but the return springs already did a good job of pulling the linkage back to zero as it was. I'm certain it's not linkage related.

The set up is functioning much better that it did at first. Good enough to drive every day. Good enough to win two awards at the car shows already this year. It's just that now I seem to be at the end of what I can do with what I've got.

Other guys seem to have had good luck with 1904 Holley's, some not so good, but I just think I'm missing something. Maybe I need to try a regulator, but before I do that I'll give three Autolite 1100's a try. That will at least answer one question.

Harry
 
Don't lose heart. One of the guys here went through like eight carbs before he got three that worked well together. He has a picture of all of them on a piece of plywood. Several were the same kind and each functioned differently.
 
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