Interesting read about rod length ratio

A

Anonymous

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"Tech Tip - 2005
Rod Lengths/Ratios: Much ado about almost nothing.

Why do people change connecting rod lengths or alter their rod length to stroke ratios? I know why, they think they are changing them. They expect to gain (usually based upon the hype of some magazine article or the sales pitch of someone in the parts business) Torque or Horsepower here or there in rather significant "chunks". Well, they will experience some gains and losses here or there in torque and or H.P., but unfortunately these "chunks" everyone talks about are more like "chips".

To hear the hype about running a longer Rod and making more Torque @ low to mid RPM or mid to high RPM (yes, it is, believe it or not actually pitched both ways) you'd think that there must be a tremendous potential for gain, otherwise, why would anyone even bother? Good question. Let's begin with the basics. The manufacture's (Chevy, Ford, Chrysler etc.) employ automotive engineers and designers to do their best (especially today) in creating engine packages that are both powerful and efficient. They of course, must also consider longevity, for what good would come form designing an engine with say 5% more power at a price of one half the life factor? Obviously none. You usually don't get something for nothing - everything usually has its price. For example: I can design a cam with tremendous high RPM/H.P. potential, but it would be silly of me (not to mention the height of arrogance) to criticize the engineer who designed the stock camshaft. For this engine when I know how poorly this cam would perform at the lower operating RPM range in which this engineer was concerned with as his design objective!

Yet, I read of and hear about people who do this all the time with Rod lengths. They actually speak of the automotive engine designer responsible for running "such a short Rod" as a "stupid SOB." Well, folks I am here to tell you that those who spew such garbage should be ashamed of themselves - and not just because the original designer had different design criteria and objectives. I may shock some of you, but in your wildest dreams you are never going to achieve the level of power increase by changing your connecting rod lengths that you would, say in increasing compression ratio, cam duration or cylinder head flow capacity. To illustrate my point, take a look at the chart below. I have illustrated the crank angles and relative piston positions of today's most popular racing engine, the 3.48" stroke small block 350 V8 Chevy in standard 5.7", 6.00", 6.125" and 6.250" long rod lengths in 5 degree increments. Notice the infinitesimal (look it up in the dictionary) change in piston position for a given crank angle with the 4 different length rods. Not much here folks, but "oh, there must be a big difference in piston velocity, right?" Wrong! Again it's a marginal difference (check the source yourself - its performance calculator).

To hear all this hype about rod lengths I'm sure you were prepared for a nice 30, 40, or 50 HP increase, weren't you? Well its more like a 5-7 HP increase at best, and guess what? It comes at a price. The longer the rod, the closer your wrist pin boss will be to your ring lands. In extreme situations, 6.125" & 6.250" lengths for example, both ring and piston life are affected. The rings get a double whammy affect. First, with the pin boss crowding the rings, the normally designed space between the lands must be reduced to accommodate the higher wrist pin boss. Second, the rings wobble more and lose the seal of their fine edge as the piston rocks. A longer Rod influences the piston to dwell a bit longer at TDC than a shorter rod would and conversely, to dwell somewhat less at BDC. This is another area where people often get the information backwards.

In fact, this may surprise you, but I know of a gentleman who runs a 5.5" Rod in a 350 Small Block Chevy who makes more horsepower (we're talking top end here) than he would with a longer rod. Why? Because with a longer dwell time at BDC the short rod will actually allow you a slightly later intake closing point (about 1 or 2 degrees) in terms of crank angle, with the same piston rise in the cylinder. So in terms of the engines sensitivity to "reversion" with the shorter rod lengths you can run about 2-4 degrees more duration (1-2 degrees on both the opening & closing sides) without suffering this adverse affect! So much for the belief that longer rod's always enhance top end power!

Now to the subject of rod to stroke ratios. People are always looking for the "magic number" here - as if like Pythagoras they could possibly discover a mathematical relationship which would secure them a place in history. Rod to stroke ratios are for the most part the naturally occurring result of other engine design criteria. In other-words, much like with ignition timing (spark advance) they are what they are. In regards to the later, the actual number is not as important as finding the right point for a given engine. Why worry for example that a Chrysler "hemi" needs less spark advance that a Chevrolet "wedge" combustion chamber? The number in and of itself is not important and it is much the same with rod to stroke ratios. Unless you want to completely redesign the engine (including your block deck height etc.) leave your rod lengths alone. Let's not forget after all, most of us are not racing at the Indy 500 but rather are hot rodding stock blocks.

Only professional engine builders who have exhausted every other possible avenue of performance should ever consider a rod length change and even they should exercise care so as not to get caught up in the hype."

From the ISKYcams website. What do you guys think?
 
We kind of worked through that here. The only one with established benefits was the Australian 250, which can run "long" Australian 200 rods with a purpose-made ACL piston.

Bear in mind that the engine designer is building a camel, while we are trying to refine a breed. There may be other six cylinder motor configurations that show a discernable gain, but require serious cost / benfit evaluation.

Adam.
 
The late Gene Berg did literally hundreds of dyno tests on many combinations of air-cooled VW's. He wrote quite a treatise about rod angle. To sum up what he wrote "The point to remember is that the longer the rod the less power at low rpm and the more at the higher rpm. Naturally this is provided the head can provide the flow. The longer the rod the less air speed in the ports so the less flow it will provide.Many people complain that when they installed too long of a rod they lost low end power with no gain in the top. This was because the head port speed was slowed down. Likewise when the head port has low velocity a shorter rod will enhance the power of the engine.......... As mentioned earlier, the heads must match the combination of crankshaft and and rod ratio. If you have heads with low air speed you need to have as high of a rod angle as possible. If the heads have high air speed then a longer rod may be appropriate."

His main point was that an engine has to be considered as a whole, not just one narrow focal point. He had the race wins to back it up too.
Joe
 
I try to build engines with power vs. cost as the primary factor. If you can build a long rod engine for the same price as a short rod engine, AND it's going into light car, why not?
A classic example of good engineering for all the wrong reasons:
A bone stock 4.0 liter Rover V8 has a rod/stroke ratio of 2.19/1. This is a super high ratio. Theoretically, piston acceleration (not average piston speed) calculations show this engine is as safe to spin up to 7000 rpm as a Chevy 350 spinning 6000 rpm. Too bad the stock valvetrain floats at 6000-6200 rpm. With performance lifters and valve springs, it's an incredible engine for a light sports car (hmm, like a 69 GTV...), but they truly suck in a three ton SUV (silly Brits). Who in the world revs a truck to 7000 rpm???
In real world driving rod length is not very important, compared to the thousand other things you can do to improve engine performance. I.e., head/intake/exhaust.
Where rod/ratios are important is in the money-no-object world of displacement restricted racing classes. Here, a 2% increase in power can make the difference between first, and out of the money. All else being equal, a long rod engine will be -slightly- faster on the track. Hello, Marketing Department?
Here is a link to Dave Williams site which has a rod/stroke database of most engines, stroker and otherwise.
Rod ratio list
Always fun to bench build.
Rick(wrench)
 
Basically, I totally agree. Unlike anyone else ,any where, I can quantify how much a rod ratio change is worth, balanced against weight an cost.

Any engine is a compromise. I have quatified the increase in hp verses rod ratio. If you want to now mathematically, it is

rod ratio modifed = LRinc
rod ratio stock

Then take the log of the result. Multiply it by 0.5 (ie,take half the result).

Then add 1 to thr result.

Eg 1:, 250 Falcon with 5.88 inch rod, 3.91 stroke gives 1.503:1 (stock)
250 Falcon with 6.06 inch rods, 3.91" stroke gives 1.549:1(modified)

That gives 1.031

Take the log, and its 0.01326

Then, half the result, and add one

1.0066

If the engine had 130 hp with the 5.88" rod, it will have 130.86 with the 6.06" rod.

This is based on a stock engine, with no cam optimisation, and where no major bore changes have been made, and the stroke remains the same*. This holds true for any 4-cycle engine. It is super accurate, and its based on frictional horspower loss.

The cost of 0.86 hp on the Falcon is an engine rebuild, and the cost of new pistons and reworked 6.06" rods. Is 0.86 hp worth Au 2000 bucks or US 1000?


Eg 2:A 450 hp 454 Chev with the stock 1.51 ratio and 6.05" rods, changed for a taller block with 7.4 inch rods and a 1.85 will give another 20 peak power ponies, with no optimisation changes.

The cost of 20 hp on the Big Block Chev is a new bowtie block, an engine build with expensive 7.4" custom rods and mega expen$ive 1" tall compressin height pistons, The cost of new pistons and reworked 6.06" rods. Is 20 hp worth US 12,000? The weight cost, even on the production tall block, is well over 70 pounds.

Eg 3:

The Aussie log 200 Falcon, with 6.27" rods, gives a 2.006:1 rod ratio. The stock US log 200 has only 4.715" rods for a 1.508: 1 rod ratio. For a stock 1-bbl small log head engine giving about 90 hp at the flywheel, it would give another 5.6 hp.

The cost is nothing if you have either engine, but the weight penalty is proportional to the 9.38 verse 7.803 deck height increae of the taller Oz 200 block, about 70 pounds for a start, an effictive loss of 1 horsepower for a start. Is 4.6 hp worth the loss of menuverablity and the gain in weight?

E.g 4: My 221 cube engine, with 6.27" rods, gets a theoretical 4.3 hp extra over a stock 221 engine with 5.14" rods putting out 100 net hp. That's nothing, considering the 2700 grand worth of forged pistons, welded up crank and preped rods. :cry:

When you could win or loos 40 hp on a dyno tune, let alone a few 20 gains on a great carb, exhast or head, rod mods are JUST NOT WORTH IT.


*(Moderate stroke increases can be accomodated in the formula if the brake effective mean pressure is lessoned, and the rpm peak rev range is lowered)
The mathematical model was formed on , one, a Mini 1400 cc engine and 1559 cc engine with only stroke changes, and was verified by a frictional horsepower calculation done by David Vizard in the 80's. The second item was a historical Chrylser LA small block comparision using variable rod ratios on 340, 360, 400 strokers by Keith Black in the 80's, The third via DIN standard Ford Falcon 3.3 and 4.1 engines from 1983. The fourth is a short stroke Car Craft 350 engine with 6.21" Ford 300 rods from a 90's article.

One thing I havent't tried is the Engine Analyser. I'm certain it would show the same variance.
 
The fellow who wrote the article said that the engine designers were balancing various factors when choosing rod length. Does he understand that the need to make the engine as compact as possible may lead to shorter than optimum rod length? Also, if you are designing an engine that will end up in the hands of the general public, you want it to be very tolerant of spark-timing variences, gasoline quality variences, assembly-line tolerances for combustion chamber volume, and anything else that could cause some customer's engine to knock. Shorter rods have the advantage here. That doesn't mean that if the factory engineer were designing or building an engine for his own use that he would make the same choices.
 
This was my line of thinking on the other post about long rods. I understand it can/will make a difference, but at what price. I totally agree with Smitty, what an engineer designs for his job and what he designs for himself are probably totally different. My thought is that if I could find off-the-shelf rods and pistons that would work without major mods (and expense), I could run a longer rod ratio AND design the rest of the motor to suit. The price difference between prepping 200 rods (lighten, balance, shot-peen,etc) and slightly narrowing 2.3 liter or 302 rods (with the same mods also) is neglible. The only real cost involved is the custom pistons, but if I'm going to get custom pistons anyways, the cost, again, is a moot point. I'm just not sure how involved (read $$$ for custom pistons, regardless of rods) I really want to get, for what is in reality, just a street motor. I think there are far cheaper ways to realize a 3-4% improvement, but if the rest of the combo is dialed in, then how much power can really be gained?
 
Lets see... Bore and stroke in my Hudson is 3 7/8 X 5". The rods are 8.125 inches long. That's a 1.66 ratio. I wonder if I can find something longer for my next rebuild... From a Peterbuilt maybe?
 
Hudson Nut":62xdk50i said:
Lets see... Bore and stroke in my Hudson is 3 7/8 X 5". The rods are 8.125 inches long. That's a 1.66 ratio. I wonder if I can find something longer for my next rebuild... From a Peterbuilt maybe?

I've got all the rod ratio figures from all US engines from 1937 to 1953. Before engine height was a issue, all engines used to be in the 1.7 to 1.9:1 rod ratio range.

Peterbuilt rods might not be strong or long enough!
 
xtaxi":18k0mh78 said:
Hudson Nut":18k0mh78 said:
Lets see... Bore and stroke in my Hudson is 3 7/8 X 5". The rods are 8.125 inches long. That's a 1.66 ratio. I wonder if I can find something longer for my next rebuild... From a Peterbuilt maybe?

I've got all the rod ratio figures from all US engines from 1937 to 1953. Before engine height was a issue, all engines used to be in the 1.7 to 1.9:1 rod ratio range.

Peterbuilt rods might not be strong or long enough!

Ok, so what length are the rods in my 1941 John Deere Model "A"? :p ;)
Joe
 
Lazy JW":1ip30hal said:
xtaxi":1ip30hal said:
Hudson Nut":1ip30hal said:
Lets see... Bore and stroke in my Hudson is 3 7/8 X 5". The rods are 8.125 inches long. That's a 1.66 ratio. I wonder if I can find something longer for my next rebuild... From a Peterbuilt maybe?

I've got all the rod ratio figures from all US engines from 1937 to 1953. Before engine height was a issue, all engines used to be in the 1.7 to 1.9:1 rod ratio range.

Peterbuilt rods might not be strong or long enough!

Ok, so what length are the rods in my 1941 John Deere Model "A"? :p ;)
Joe


:oops:only domestic US car engines...every thing from Graham to Kaiser, but not John Deere :oops:
 
Interesting stuff guys.

Earlier this year i rebuilt an OZ cast iron x-flow 200. I chose this motor as i wanted to turbocharge and rev to 5500 without creating a lot of side load. The OZ 200 has a 6.2 inch (or so) rod ans 3.13 stroke. It has a ratio around 2.00:1. It also has teh advantage of being able to use ACL race pistons for the 250 8.5cc dish (same compression height) and giving me a boost friendly 8.3:1.

I did some maximum piston acceleration calculations before choosing this motor and found that of all the Ford Engines that would easily fit my car such as 351c and w, 302c and w, 289w, 250 and 200, the 302c was the best followed by the long rod 200 with the 250 being the worst.(for you yanks the 302c is an OZ only motor same deck height and bore as a 351c with long rods and a 3" stroke).

I liked the idea of propane and turbocharging after reading Jay Storers book on Propane conversons. 6 cylinders are simpler to turbocharge, and 6 cylinder parts are plentiful and cheap so I went with the 200 long rod. The engine bay is also less crowded. I assumed that I wouldn't get any significant power out of longer rods, but that it may wear significantly less than a 250 revved to the same max, about 5,500. Any thoughts on less wear (particularly piston skirts and big end bearings) with longer rods?

The motor is in the car now, naturally aspirated while I run it in (and restore the bank balance, put a twin plate cluth in and had the gearbox rebuilt-ouch). It certainly lacks low speed torque which I attribute to the loss of 50 cubes. It revs up to 5,000 very smoothly, I haven't given it any more than that at this stage. I have decided I won't turbo the XB wagon until I get the new [!!! 30 year old cars are not] 351c XB coupe up to scratch.

Dom
 
Any time you destroke and engine, you will always loose power, but not proportionally less.

The first net rated 351C had 162 kW (216 HP), while the Geelong made 302C had 145 kW (196 HP). The revs at maximum power were lower on the bigger engine than the smaller. The rev limit was 5500 rpm on the 302, 4800 rpm on the 351.

With the 200 Geelong sixes, rev limit was 5500 rpm, while the 250 was 4800 rpm.

Each base engine was a long rod, short stroke rendition of the bigger short rod, long stroke engine. All the smaller engines were more economical, much smoother. If you check the failed engines register, there are far more worn 250's and 302's because more were made. There were only about 75000 351'a ever made in Aussie, and 425 000 302C's. There were, since 1971 over 200 000 200 sixes were made, while there were over 900 000 250's were made from '71 to '93.

You find heaps of worn 302's and 250's because they out number there 351 and 200 cousins by over 5 to 1.

The 302 has 17% less capacity than the 351 engines but only 11% less power but almost 20% less torque. The 200 has 25% loss in capacity, but only 15 to 8% less power, depending on the model. There is only a 15% loss in maximum rev range and the power peaks are not much more than 10% less. Torque was down a massive 29%

The truth is running a destroked engine will never loose a great deal of power, but it will always loose a proportional amount of torque.

If you add a turbo, you'll gain back lots of power only if you boost the Being Jesus outa the sucker, but you'll never get the level of power a 250 turbo will unless you rev it 25% more. If you look at Jason Ghiller's silver or red XE ESP Turbo which did 11.08 second qaurters at 123 mph. It reved to 5900 rpm. Your 200 would have to rev to 7400 rpm to give the same power.

If you are able to make a 200 rev to 7400 rpm without oil surge, conrod bolt, beam or rocker post failure, then you'll find it will wear just like a 250 reving to 5900 rpm.

Two years ago, I finished my 228 stroker crank, and placed on my profile "I want to Make it rev like a ricer".

Revs kill engines. Every ounce of attrition reduction you gain by shorter stroke and longer rods, you loose in having to rev the crud out of it. I know 3.3's are much sweeter, economical and far stronger when reved than a 250, but fact is you will always have the spur the beast.

A turbo 200 will rev like a 302C and the 250 like a 377 cube 351C stroker. The only advantage is no chance you'll ever brake a 200 crank. It has huge main bearings, and exceeds to strength of even the earlier short deck 200 cranks made from 1965 to 1984 in America, and they are bomb proof.
 
If its a 250 with 200 rods, Dom's goose is still a firebreathing griffin. :boom:

If it's just a 250 with 50 less cubes, then he'll never get the off-line torque any similar 250 will give. The good attributes will be outweighed by the lack of torque unless he can give it more boost and more revs than a 250.

Cannae change the laws of physics.

Believe me, what has been said about cheap rod swaps is good advice, but unless your putting AU or 2.5HSC rods into a 250, there isn't such thing as a cheap rod swap.

One thing I'd love to do is a Jack Collins style 200 cuber with the short deck, a big turbo and a set of 5.2" Lima OHC rods with our ACL low compression height pistons. That engine would be perfect combination.

I'm now stuck with a 56 thou over 250 block, a short stroke 221 crank, and not so strong 200 rods. (Plus another seventh main bearing carrier to machine up, plus the smaller 2.75" crank flange). When its built up, I'll have gained about 5% on power per cube, but lost 10% power and torque on the short stroke crank. It's got a 1.81:1rod ratio, and even if it revs to 7500 rpm, it'll be hard pressed to beat any turbo 250 with a stock rod ratio. The benefits of long rod, short stroke aren't there in substantial measure unless you are NASCAR or AVESCO style enduro racing. Drag racers follow the short rod, 1.5:1 rod ratio theorem, and win races.
 
My reading of what he said, is that he's used the 200 crank. Ergo, a 200-cuber (plus a nominal oversize).
 
I'm certain Dom's got his head screwed on right. The Aussie 200 with the 9.38" deck is a sweet, sweet engine, with a lot of good points. Torque isn't one of them.

One word of note. All truely great race engines have rod ratios of better than 1.8:1, but the street isn't ruled by race engines. That's why todays Falcons have crappy rod ratios and torque to move a mountain

(4.0, 1.53:1, 5.4, 1.56:1, and both undersquare)
 
So what your saying xtaxi is that without the torque that the stock rod ratio 250 makes a 200 is a waste of time in a drag application?
Even if you go crazy on the rods and go a huge turbo to get the torque?
Ive got alot to learn bout turbos but im very keen on a turbo gas throttle body drag thingy happening!! :D
Thanks Steve
 
Steve, it seems to me that there's less sense in a 200 if using the same block as the 250.

They're both pretty weighty, both the same bore (and the same bore-type issues, thus). I could almost understand the small (say XR) 200 against the later 250, but Dom's block in question is the 250 block.

It presents as sacrificing 20% capacity, no weight loss, for a "maybe" on the turbo. Or, destroking the BA six before turbocharging - they didn't, did they? ;)

Not knocking anyone's efforts, just a point of view.
 
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