jump starting my ignition, kind of

[matt1967]

I have a slight problem. when I was coming up my hill to my house 1 day in my '67 Falcon and it shut off and then suddenly started back up, looked it over, and figured it was just a carb ajustment. so last night I went out to try and tune the carb, started the engine, revved it to about 1,500 or so ( wouldn't idle below that compleatly cold due to carb tune ) and then let it idle, and was waiting for it to heat enough so that I could release the choke and tune it correctly. b4 it was warm, it just shut off, I pulled the air cleaner off of it and smelled gas so I figured it flooded out due to the carb tune, let it sit for the night, went back today and it wouldn't start. checked voltage at the coil and I was getting about 3v, so I checked the I terminal on the solonoid, I was getting 6.56v seemd normal, so I ran a hot lead from it to the coil just as a test to see if it would start. It fired right up, whail it was running, I yanked off the wire on the I terminal, expecting the engine to die but it stayed running, and I allowed it to warm up and tuned the carb. shut it off, and tried it again, fired right up again. what could be the cause?

 

[rbohm]

8) start with the basics, clean the battery terminals. then check all the electrical connections for cleanliness and tightness. also have the coil checked.

 

[CobraSix]

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm on the road and don't have my manuals with me. You should be getting at least 6Vs to the coil and that's if you have the original style ballast resistor or resistor wire in the system. 3Vs seems low. Also your starter solenoid should be getting the full 12Vs. Clean your terminals. Also, look at your battery wires. Make sure the wires going into the terminal connectors are free from corrosion. On my old truck, I had wires only 3 years old, but had oxidized so much that it was nothing but green copper-oxide and even though the4 terminals were clean, I would lose power all the time. So check the terminal connectors too. If you have the molded ones, toss them and get the ones where you can remove the battery wires from the connectors. Those molded ones don't last very long just because of that.

Slade

 

[matt1967]

that's the thing. now that I " Jump started " the ignition the voltage at the coil reads over 6v. where i tested the starter solonoid was the bypass connector on the bypass wire, so 6v would be correct, it would only be 12v on cranking

 

[addo]

I'd suggest disconnecting the battery and checking the coil resistances - primary and secondary. Also check the resistive wire from ignition switch to the coil. Check your solenoid for faults. Sometimes overcranking the threaded posts can twist bits internally, causing phantom issues (ones that come and go).

If your meter can, also test the condensor and points.

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

So check the terminal connectors too. If you have the molded ones, toss them and get the ones where you can remove the battery wires from the connectors.

I actually have more problems with the replacement ends corroding than the molded cables. Besides, the molded cables are cheap, about $3 each for 6 gauge?

Also check the resistive wire from ignition switch to the coil.

That's what I'm putting my money on.

 

[matt1967]

I'm betting on the resistive wire myself. I put a new - cable on the battery, the old 1 was shot, paid just over $5 if I remember.

 

[Anonymous]

where i tested the starter solonoid was the bypass connector on the bypass wire, so 6v would be correct, it would only be 12v on cranking

Actually I believe at the solenoid it would be 12V as the resistor is between ign switch and the coil. The bypass or start terminal is a straight 12v for crank up and bypasses the resistor circuit. There are no 6v terminals at the solenoid. My quess is you have a dead battery. When you ran straight off the soenoid you got all the voltage available which is enough to get it going then the generator was able to supply the needed voltage to keep it going.

 

[matt1967]

the battery is brand new, granit it's a 525 CCA neverstart battery so who knows.

but wouldn't the bypass see 6v disconnected? because I measured from the bypass wire, not the I terminal on the solonoid, it connects to the I terminal on the solonoid and I havn't tested it but I'm guessing it is dead until cranking when the solonoid provides 12v to the bypass.

 

[Anonymous]

the battery is brand new, granit it's a 525 CCA neverstart battery so who knows.

but wouldn't the bypass see 6v disconnected? because I measured from the bypass wire, not the I terminal on the solonoid, it connects to the I terminal on the solonoid and I havn't tested it but I'm guessing it is dead until cranking when the solonoid provides 12v to the bypass.

The I terminal sends full 12 volts to the points when cranking...that wire might be bad, too.