All Small Six L6 4.1l 250 motor mount question

[Jtaoj0]

Hi all. First time poster. I picked up a 68 F100. Sometime in its life it had a 1970 L6 4.1 250 installed in place of the original L6 3.9 240. It runs very well. The motor mounts aren’t the best however. I have been searching and can’t find any info. I am attaching a pic. Any guidance? I searched the forum to no avail.

thanks in advance. Jeff

 

[bubba22349]

Those insolaters might be from the Ford FE 352 or 390 V8 these were common Mounts for those pickups.

 

[Jtaoj0]

Those insolaters might be from the Ford FE 352 or 390 V8 these were common Mounts for those pickups.

Thanks bubba. The mounts do appear to be two piece. So these are not standard 250 mounts? The engine side likely but the isolator maybe not? Thanks.

there are some Aussie mounts (isolators) that look like they might work but snipping is obviously a killer)

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Jeff, sorry my post kind of got cut short last night we had a hard lightning strike and the power went out as I was typing it on the computer, so I only was able to send part of it later from my phone. Looking at your mounts better today I think those mounts including the Frame Adapters would be more likely the 250 Six Mounts from a 1970 Fairlane, Mustang, or Maverick we do have Pictures of most all the 250 SIx Mounts on our site somewhere, these 250's are such a popular swap to put into the early 1964 1/2 to 1966 Mustangs. The 250 Six Mounts are not so easy to find anymore, you might be able to get yours rebuilt at the Damper Doctor in Calif. https://www.damperdoctor.com/ Best of luck

 

[chad]

Matt showed mounts on his on-line catelogue.
However, I'd go 1 step back and assure it is the 250 odd ball and not a 240 or 300. Do U know the pointers on ThriftPower i6 "small block' (4 of them) & 2 "big block' (that's cheb termenology applied to ford who actually uses 'famalies') motor ID? Let's begin there then go onto"
A great big
W E L C O M E !!!
for the 1st time poster~

 

[Jtaoj0]

Hi yep, I have validated it is the odd ball 250…which is cool in an odd way and a pain.

 

[chad]

Odd Ball (not sm blk or big blk, I lub it in my bronk (C below sig).
Sure dont look it w/that position of bolt holes for towers...

 

[Jtaoj0]

Chad, do you have a pic of your right and left mounts you can post? That would be a great help. My guess is that the person who did the swap way back when, cobbled things together. The drivers side has a block then the perch then the mount. Passenger side as you see in the pic.

I found a blog where a guy rebuilt his own using some polyurethane rubber with a catalyst. Used the old metal parts and recast the rubber. Cheaper than aussie ones and cheaper than having them recast by a company, but still not cheap. I may give that a whirl if I can't find any stockers.

Thanks.

 

[chad]

yes, we remember the stuff. U can pour it ina container w/the metal part of the tower stickin out for the bolt mounting flange, etc. Glad U wont go 'hard mount' (no rubber). I'd use our other forums too ('truck',' vintage' &/or the more 'hang out' forums) for more info on actual oe mounts'n towers (use the oe tower / make ur own mount?). I all ways fear custom (we dont call it 'cobbled together' dat aint pro-fessional) aaahahahaaaa as replacement means we gotta go thru that again (post breakage, rust out, etc).

"...do you have a pic?..."
no, I lub pic but dont have the tech or equipment. I went thru a bit to get (finally) the "early mav mounts' (actually towers and mounts. They have a rivet connecting those 2 halfs). Probably not 4U. I still havea feeling U dont havea 250/4.1 there due to the 'hi/low' offset on ur 2 pictured bolts (for the mount). I dont no that Y/M/M truck for the tower so cant comment on it. Been awhile since I wrked on my bronk so may B a lill shady on that (my 70th B'Day was Sun as well - U no us ol timers'n memory). May B bubs is checkin in here, gota ideer...

"...I have validated it,,,"
and how did U do that?

 

[Jtaoj0]

Hi, I validated several ways, first was using some of the info from the fordsix tech section (the old Classic Inlines data):

• 250ci -7 main: 4 bolt water pump and 5 freeze plugs. Mine matches that description.

After doing that, I cleaned the valve cover to see if I could find the sticker...it shows a 1970 250. I am pretty darn sure it is a 250, but who knows what the past owners did to fit it into the old 240 CI's spot. The truck was originally a 240.

Anyway, that is my story and I am sticking to it

thanks.

 

[chad]

OK, some here dont follow the hints on "the Handbook" or "CI archive" for block ID and the 4 'sm block' can look alike from the outside.. The sticker mentioned is un-reliable as U state "Who knows what an OP may have done..."
If wanting accurate timing on manufacturer's 'born date' I C 2 fellas who 'liked' ur last post that could zero in on that. ID done now, day made is possible thru the castings, interested?

"...my story and... stickin to it..."
certainty is good, allows 1 to move forward in confidence.

Me on the other hand, long suffering, all ways seeking more, more, more... looking at the #1 post and thinking "May B the open bolt hole closer to the starter is where the mounts go on other applications you've seen. That would give it that 'level' mount U seek, Chad." Then again, "Listen buddy, that would not B center of gravity. Whacha thinkin, fool!?" Finally, "'S late @ nite, dude. Give it up. You'll C the car in the morning when goin to the garage for work. Take a look then."

 

[John Ha]

Kinda late to the party but those mounts look like the ones used in the 71 and 72 Mustangs with the 250 I6 (attaching a drawing from the Master Parts Catalog fyi). I looked into using parts of these to mount the 250 in my 66 Mustang. I didn't use them because the mounts I bought needed new isolators (the 6038 part in the diagram), and I couldn't find replacement isolators anywhere.

The other Ford cars of that era that were equipped with the 250 I6 (Torino, Maverick, etc.) used similar arrangements - mostly differing in how they attached to the frame. The bracket that attaches to the engine was the same for them all but the bracket that attaches to the frame isn't.

 

[chad]

6030.1 is pretty rare I'd say, 6038 less so, I've never seen the 3rd - frame side offered (602** ) here's a pretty common offering:

Motor Mount 2225/2226- Pair | Vintage Inlines

Fits the following applications: Mustang 65-66 (200ci); Falcon 64-65 (200ci); Falcon 62-65 (144/170ci); Ranchero 63-65 (144/170ci); Fairlane 63-64 (170ci)

www.vintageinlines.com

This last one or the one on your truck would not go on my 1969 mustang 4.1L motor. This is because of the mount side, the bolt holes on the engine, are like the 'late Mav' - 2 sideb'side.
Matching the whole assembly can B difficult. Sometimes we (as U R suggesting) make up the less obtainable side to make up what's sensable. Scrap, a welder...'fab work' can solve some problems (& create others). Such is the customizer's life. As much OEM as possible so as to obtain more easily (not have to fab again) in the event needed again in the future. I got lucky in the mounts and towers dept (a car motor ina 'jeep'). Other areas were a **** (like drill new holes in the frame for tower-side bolt-up, 1 inch behind the bent8 location).
So to answ the Q about them - "yes, the 2 are a lill different as 1 presents a different angle & hight from the other." For some 1 like me (that's nobody?) the difference is almost imperceptible, I have to look closely - the angle difference easier to see, the hight not so much. I don't think these would work for U, again, due to the threaded block-side holes location. Same w/the 1s on Matt's site (rather than side by side (horizontally) like mine; they are like the other 'sm blk' falcon motors '1 above the other' (vertically). HTH

 

[Jtaoj0]

Thanks guys… the 6038 is what I figured…but same issue they are not available. Time for mad fab skills,,,which mine are just bad fab lol

 

[drag-200stang]

Practice makes perfect.

 

[chad]

Y change it, looks 2B holdin up pretty good?

Matt may have one like that ( 6038 ) but a lill different:
one peg/post centered on the rubber face (not 2); the 2 bolt tabs below 'out' rather than down, on the same plane as the rubber
face but down an inch. I could mail U 2 rather then send them back to VI~

Yup, nice to havea mig, tig. We also have automatic hack saw, torch, BFH'n vice. Back east I usta havea 'bolt forge' I made from a truck brake drum. But that was 50 yrs ago. Wish I hada lill bigger one to do the 2v direct mount to the "M" head I have. Would B nice to have Lavron lookin down for guidance on that, no?

 

[John Ha]

Just to be clear, the 6038 is the generic number for that part. There are additional letters and numbers that identify that part for a specific application (year, model, engine, ...). Here's a screenshot of the mounts for the Mustang (model "F"). The 76 model is the convertible, which apparently has different isolators than the notchback and sportsroof models with the same engine. The isolator part you want (and may not find) is D0OZ-6038-B (D zero Oh Z-6038-B). I seem to recall that these same units were also used on some Torinos and Mavericks in the day.

 

[chad]

4 didgets or 10
dont the sketch artists talk w/the prts guys?
Think they would, save thousands, may B millions of dollars?

 

[John Ha]

I dunno. It's how they did it. It does makes sense to me - not that it makes any difference.

It's a part number thing used when a manufacturer has some "thing" with a common name (e.g., "motor mount") that is used in many different applications. In this case the applications include variations in both model year, models (Galaxie, Mustang, Torino, ...), and engines (200 I6, 289 V8, 429 V8, ...). You have the basic part number for the "thing", and then add the revision information to tie it to a specific application. In this case the revision information includes the year of manufacture and part number version.

The sketch probably wasn't that specific because parts can be revised over time, and the part number changes. Done the way it was (base number on the drawing and table showing specific numbers) only requires the table to be changed if a part is revised.

Not rocket science, although the same basic principles apply in that industry.

 

[chad]

that's not what I meant. Didnt ask correctly, put U thru a long answ, should not have
wuz tryin to make a joke as well. I retreat to my cave.
Thnx for all the effort.