Linkage Ideas for HW 5200 2bbl

TheDude

Well-known member
Hi,

I finally got around to ordering another HW 5200 for my 200ci. It has a different linkage adapter than my last one (the new one will be easier to work with). I had a cable setup (with a V8 throttle arm) for my last one, in which the linkage had to be pulled towards the front of the engine compartment. This new throttle moves towards the back. I'm thinking that I may be able to modify a 6cyl throttle arm, depending on how it lines up. Here is a picture. Has anyone had a successful setup with this type of linkage?

336287934.jpg


Thanks
 
I'm getting ready to do this on my Falcon. My current setup is a laugher!

I have a long eye bolt clamped to the upright part of the original linkage at the firewall using u-bolts. From the top of the eye bolt to the carb I have stranded cable used for hanging heavy pictures. This lash-up allowed me to determine the amount I need to lengthen the upright arm of the linkage at the firewall (increased moment is it?) and the offset between upright bit and the carb.

I obtained some round stock to weld on to the upright bit and I got a Longacre throttle linkage kit very reasonable off EBay. It comes with an aluminum tube and two low friction Heim joints, left and right hand. You bend and cut the tube to length and then rethread the end with a 1/4X20 or 1/4X32 tap.


Wish I could post a pic that would explain it better but I haven't done it yet.
 
From my '06 engine-swap thread:
(Note that my throttle rod pulls back towards the firewall)

jamyers":1cb0w0fo said:
...After much head-scratching about mounting the carb and throttle linkages, I realized that less is more. The stock throttle rod that went from the firewall to the bellcrank fit neatly on the carb's throttle arm stud, but the carbs stud was located a bit too far "long". In order to get the pedal to go to wot, the pedal was too far off of the floor at idle to be comfortable, and it had a LOT of pedal travel. So I unbolted the stud from the original bellcrank, drilled a hole in the carb's throttle lever (just over halfway between the throttle shaft centerline and the existing stud), and bolted the Ford stud onto the carb's lever arm. Hooked the Ford throttle rod directly to the new stud, and it works like a charm, with just the right amount of pedal travel - WAY easier than I thought it'd be!

Here's a picture, note the two studs on the carb throttle arm. It's not in the way, but I'll probably cut off the end of the arm one of these days. I ran the throttle spring from the old bellcrank pivot back to the other end of the rod where it connects to the firewall arm. I only used one spring here because the carb itself has a throttle return spring on the shaft itself.
ThrottleLinkage2.jpg


Another view...
ThrottleLinkage.jpg
 
65andonly18":13pzktup said:
To BA what adapter are you using? Are you using the ford spacer for the pcv?

Yes. I am saving up for the Clifford adatper so I can lower the carb and get rid of the spacer. It currently has the stock spacer and then the stovebolt adapter.
 
You can get rid of the spacer and use the Stovebolt adapter quite easily if you'll drill the bolt holes offset to match up to the manifold. Here's the thread where I did just that. (been working fine for 2 years now).
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32460

PS: BA, if your 5200 is stalling on left turns, try lowering the float height or installing a fuel pressure regulator.
The float height recommended by all the Weber sources is assuming something like 2-4 psi, where our fuel pumps make 6-8psi (which leaves you with a much higher float height in operation.)
 
A couple of the reasons I like the 5200 and DFV is that the main throttle shaft has the nut on the linkage side and is closer to the Firewall. This makes it easy to swap throttle arms and is easier to modify your linkage. You can make or purchase any number of linkage arms with the different clocking that you may need. I found what I needed at http://www.piercemanifolds.com.

Check out this link I had put together some time ago showing the modifications I made to the throttle linkage for a DFV.

http://home.comcast.net/~tuckerjr3/head ... nstall.htm

Good luck, Ric.
 
BA Mustang":3ughksgz said:
It is fine in left turns. It acts like it wants to die during right turns, but it has yet to do that.
Aha...well, I am left-handed, so... left, right... :D Sorry 'bout that.

Is your float bowl facing the driver's (left) side? Haven't heard of right-hand stalling... float height too low?
 
Anyone know where I can get a gasket for the base of the carburetor?

Also, the carburetor I got from Stovebolt did not include the fuel inlet nozzle, so I cannot attach the rubber fuel line. Can I remove the nozzle from my other HW 5200? The new carburetor has threads for a nozzle to screw into. Do they all come like this?

Thanks
 
TheDude":38f75pta said:
Anyone know where I can get a gasket for the base of the carburetor?
I'd take the carb to your local parts house and rummage through their supply of base gaskets. Or you could ask them for one for a '70-something Pinto 2-bbl and start from there.
 
Here's another problem: The new carburetor did not come with the fuel line fitting. I can use the fitting from my old carburetor but how do I remove it? It is round so I can't get a wrench on there and I don't want to use pliers and dent it. Is there a special tool to do this?
 
jamyers":296btqz9 said:
BA Mustang":296btqz9 said:
It is fine in left turns. It acts like it wants to die during right turns, but it has yet to do that.
Aha...well, I am left-handed, so... left, right... :D Sorry 'bout that.

Is your float bowl facing the driver's (left) side? Haven't heard of right-hand stalling... float height too low?
Yes my float is facing the drivers side.
 
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