Long Block

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I just got a ROUGH estimate for my 200 rebuild: $2800-$3200!

(This was without seeing the engine).

Has anyone purchased a long block? If so, who do you recommend?
 
they sell longblocks? where? and what is included in your build? 3200 bux sounds like a pretty good engine.
 
Montego...from MA as well..$3200 is way too much. I have a guy south of Boston who can build you a long block just short of a racing block for that much (200CI). he's standard rebuild for the 200 is around $1500. So it seems they are trying to go a little too far.

There are places that sell long blocks, usually for around $1200.

Slade
 
That is waaaaaaay off. That is more than a 347 stroker longblock with good stuff in it. Look around. you can do better than that
 
That's what I thought. All I asked in the quote was for a typical rebuild to stock specs - with perhaps larger valves and hardened seats. And I got that quote!

I have priced a few longblocks, and the most expensive I have seen is $1090! Seems like a better deal to me to just buy a new block...

Thanks for the info, guys!

Any idea why my head is a C9 on a '68?

What does the R revision mean? Thermactor? (ports appear plugged; no such ports on a C7 spare I have).
 
who sells long blocks? i thought you meant 3.2K for the entire engine build...... any idea how much a zero decked shortblock with forged pistons and arp hardware would cost?
 
Took me 10 mins to locate the following remans

200 6cyl complete long block $1545 and $235 back after return of core from Power Pro 2000 engine rebuilders

200 6cyl complete long block $1395 and no core charge ATK engine rebuilders

200 6cyl complete long block $1826.25 with core exchange Jasper engines

and this...

1970 FORD MUSTANG ENGINE -- 70 FORD MUSTANG ENGINE block#C8DE-B Head # C9DE-M from REBUILT-AUTO-ENGINES.COM
1970 FORD MUSTANG ENGINE comes with cylinder head attached and valve train installed. Remanufactured engine long blocks have NEW valves, valve springs, valve keepers, push rods, rocker arms, fulcrums, lifters, camshaft, timing chain (belt), timing gears, valve guides (diamond honed), three angle seats, cam, rod and main bearings, pistons, piston rings, rod bushings (if applicable), gaskets and oil pump. Our 70 FORD MUSTANG ENGINE long blocks are REMANUFACTURED not just REBUILT! L6, 3.3 L, / FORD 250 cid,NON TURBO, GAS ENGINE Without smog, 1 3/4" carb throat for $1080 w/$150 deposit on core.

So there you have just a few....I aint supporting them..just letting you know what is out there for a rebuilt long block...

Now if you want something racier..then add another $2K for the hi-po stuff (like dual timing chain, domed pistons, special cam, roller rockers, headers, ARP bolts, etc.) and you are back at your original quote. Even more than that if you are going to use the OZ or ARGY heads with two or more carbs!
 
Red,

To give you an idea, I went to our local race engine builder. Not the guy with the fancy shop, but the guy with a year waiting list that has a hole in the back of a parts store kind of place. To build the 200 to withstand 25psi, custom pistons, and everything, was going to run about $4k.

Slade
 
Ok guys,

Pros and cons: Have the exsisting block rebuilt or buy a long block?

Jay
 
$$$...which ever is cheaper.

Rebuild:
PRos: If you know the rebuilder, you can get a good product, and have them do some modifications like decking, milling the head, etc. You should know exactly what you are getting back. Also, since they are dealing with your directly, they are usually more inclined to do a good job then rebuilder companies.

Con: Usually more expensive then buying a factory rebuilt engine.

Factory Rebuilder:
Pros: Usually cheaper

Cons: You don't always know what the block is at as far as bore, milling, decking, or other components.

It's really up to you.

If you have time to wait, you can usually find someone doing a V-8 swap that is getting rid of a perfectly good, and oftern recently rebuilt I6.

Slade
 
CobraSix":3ag4lfqu said:
If you have time to wait, you can usually find someone doing a V-8 swap that is getting rid of a perfectly good, and oftern recently rebuilt I6.

Slade
Click to expand...


so true Slade
 
here in Houston, TX, I was just quoted from a pretty good engine rebuilder, WATCO, $700.00. That's if I bring the engine in myself and using the existing block and head. Just a basic rebuild, no fancy stuff, oh yeah, hardened seats---$10 extra apiece.
 
Thanks for the tips, guys! Great help!

The hardened seats and the larger valves were about the only real mods I wanted to do to the engine. Any other "small" mods I should consider making?

I have a local guy I am going to bring the car into next week to get a price.

Thanks again,

Jay
 
Small mods: An aftermarket cam - if only because you know the specs (Ford ones are a little varying). 250-odd degrees, maybe. The 9-keyway timing set because it's better and can be used to get the cam in place properly. Check your externals and balancer for good.
 
Definitely upgrade the cam. 260 cams are nice on the 200. I have a Comp Cam 260H and it is great. Smooth and no lumpyness.

Dual timing chain set as well.

Slade
 
Before I spent $2500 on any bodies long block I'd check the price of tools needed and then probably buy them and do almost all the work, except the machine shop work, and then have a useful set of tools upon completion.
I'm now trying to get an old 200 rerunning and will only have about $200 in the parts and etc.
It may not last a 100K but I'm not assured I will either.
If I put it in the car and it blows up, I'm just not out much.
Cost will definately be worth the (re)education.
You may not have the luxury of the time I do however.
Thatw ould affect decision making.
FWIW
DaveP
 
While your adding things to your little extras list...might as well get the port divider welded in...you will want it later.
 
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