Machine early block for late distributor

[rbohm]

A: Really don't have to cut anything. I've measured the bottom diameter of my early distributor and it is .450". The end of the late distributor is .512" so .062" would need to come off, or .032" on a side. If I measure the corner edge (the narrowest part of the hex) of the 1/4" hex drive on the early distributor to the outside (.450" O.D.) it is .083". If I measure the same dimension on the late distributor, it is the same. So, 0.083"-0.032"=0.050" wall remaining
if machining the late distributor to fit the early block, and I think it will be prone to cracking in the corner when under stress (reduces wall thickness by more that 1/3). So I don't want to go that route. That's my reason for not taking the easy way out...that's all. Or buying a $300-$400 aftermarket distributor for the early block.

8) what the aussies did was in fact use a distributor shaft the diameter of an an early six, with the 5/16" oil pump driveshaft, and they didnt have problems with the distributor shaft cracking as far as i know. perhaps addo can shed some light on this?

 

[addo]

No failure issues here; the lack of a top bush on Ford six distributors is what generally makes them go sloppy and become less accurate.

I think some of the US rebuilders counter this defect with a thinwall bronze upper bush for the inner shaft.

Mike, if you have access to all the good toys for machining, a crank angle sensor and EDIS would be a red-hot choice, no?

Cheers, Adam.