Strange_Brew
New member
Any shops out there anyone knows of that can turn out a 4140 steel crankshaft for a inline? Looking for a shop to possibly do it.
Making a crank?
- Thread starter Strange_Brew
- Start date
8) contact a place like scat. there are a number of places that grind cranks like;
http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/
http://www.ohiocrank.com/home.html
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
this site has a bunch of links to crank grinders;
http://www.thomasnet.com/products/crank ... 207-1.html
hope this helps
http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/
http://www.ohiocrank.com/home.html
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
this site has a bunch of links to crank grinders;
http://www.thomasnet.com/products/crank ... 207-1.html
hope this helps
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hank the Crank in California used to do a lot of one-offs. You could do a search and see if they're still in business.
Your an I6 Ford Big or Small Six man?
Crankshaft Rebuilders make a few long stroke 3.68" Holden L6 and quite a few Ford 3.91" I6 cranks. Like the 1500 hp Nizpro 4-liter DOHC Ford engine, for instance.
These cranks have the same 4.08" crank centre spacings as US small sixes, and the guys have all the set-up info allready dialed in. The Aussie Chrysler Valiant 265 crank is similar in length to the US Big Six, and they wouldn't mind getting the volume up if if outsourcing to Oz isn't against your ideals.
They have a lot of experience with fully counterweighed cranks (12 counterweights only happend on Holden engines in 1980, and Ford went up to 10 in 1994 engines, and to 12 in 1997 onwards). These tend to dampen out torsional vibration, a problem with some iron cranks above 5000 rpm. They can do steel or SG ones. 7500 rpm is possible very safely with 12 cw nodular iron cranks
Generally, the forged or megabuck billet steel cranks are reliable if they have been treated well. They must have a good, well treated fillet radius which is not undercut, and surface preparation, measured in RA by a sunnen tool, must be spot on. On a race engine, not a problem. In most intances, a custom billet steel crank is a very expensive expenditure which is better avoided. For the 300 I6, the mass produced 6303F stamped forged cranks are likely to have been on less than 10% of the 15 million 4.9 Fords engines that are likely to have been made since the late 60's. They are a hot ticked upgrade, much better than make a new one.
I'd start stripping down the sumps of heavy duty 300 trucks and stationary engines, and see if you get lucky. Or look for long ringlets of steel when you drill into the crank flange or balnacer snout with a small 1/16 titanium tipped drill bit, and try your luck.
Nodular iron cranks tend to have more give, but do pass on a lot more vibration. On a six, you don't notice the harmonic vibration becasue the valve gear and timing gears are critical vibration sources. On OHC engines, you can pick up the difference in high end rev range from a better crank, as there aren't pushrods, and chattering timing gears and tappet covers vibration away to drown out the customary cyclic hum.
Crankshaft Rebuilders make a few long stroke 3.68" Holden L6 and quite a few Ford 3.91" I6 cranks. Like the 1500 hp Nizpro 4-liter DOHC Ford engine, for instance.
These cranks have the same 4.08" crank centre spacings as US small sixes, and the guys have all the set-up info allready dialed in. The Aussie Chrysler Valiant 265 crank is similar in length to the US Big Six, and they wouldn't mind getting the volume up if if outsourcing to Oz isn't against your ideals.
They have a lot of experience with fully counterweighed cranks (12 counterweights only happend on Holden engines in 1980, and Ford went up to 10 in 1994 engines, and to 12 in 1997 onwards). These tend to dampen out torsional vibration, a problem with some iron cranks above 5000 rpm. They can do steel or SG ones. 7500 rpm is possible very safely with 12 cw nodular iron cranks
Generally, the forged or megabuck billet steel cranks are reliable if they have been treated well. They must have a good, well treated fillet radius which is not undercut, and surface preparation, measured in RA by a sunnen tool, must be spot on. On a race engine, not a problem. In most intances, a custom billet steel crank is a very expensive expenditure which is better avoided. For the 300 I6, the mass produced 6303F stamped forged cranks are likely to have been on less than 10% of the 15 million 4.9 Fords engines that are likely to have been made since the late 60's. They are a hot ticked upgrade, much better than make a new one.
I'd start stripping down the sumps of heavy duty 300 trucks and stationary engines, and see if you get lucky. Or look for long ringlets of steel when you drill into the crank flange or balnacer snout with a small 1/16 titanium tipped drill bit, and try your luck.
Nodular iron cranks tend to have more give, but do pass on a lot more vibration. On a six, you don't notice the harmonic vibration becasue the valve gear and timing gears are critical vibration sources. On OHC engines, you can pick up the difference in high end rev range from a better crank, as there aren't pushrods, and chattering timing gears and tappet covers vibration away to drown out the customary cyclic hum.
