I have a 1972 2dr maverick with a 250 C4. It is basically stock right now. I am getting a header for christmas, and plan on getting an electrical fan and installing electronic ignition. I also plan on getting 3.55 gears. Would I be close to low 10's in the 1/8 mile or do I need a lot more
making my maverick run low 10's
- Thread starter JHodges
- Start date
The head? That's a challenge. I would send the cam for a split-pattern regrind, and fit new or reconditioned lifters. Next would be oversized exhaust valves in the head, and hogging out those ports a little.
At a guess, allow $120 for the cam grind and reinstall if DIY, and $250 for the headwork. Your next step would be direct mounting a larger carb onto the log - that could easily run $200 with a good used carb and some shop time.
At a guess, allow $120 for the cam grind and reinstall if DIY, and $250 for the headwork. Your next step would be direct mounting a larger carb onto the log - that could easily run $200 with a good used carb and some shop time.
If you want to run 10's with a close to stock 250 the only way is to go turbo. The catch is you'll have to engineer the system largely by yourself because you're 17 and have no money. However, because you're 17, you are also probably really new to this wrenching business and building a home-brew turbo system will be challenging to say the least.
Oops, wait, you said 1/8 mile, not 1/4 mile. Never mind. Okay, get the header and save up for a dual exhaust and do the electronic ignition like you have planned. Then save up close to $1000 and have your head rebuilt with some mild porting and polishing, big valves, milled for compression, and modified to accept a two barrel carb. Once you get that carb jetted right, you'll be on your way. When your bottom end gives up, do a careful rebuild on your bottom end with the little tweaks that make it better than stock (good balalncing, milled deck, performance cam) and you will be running some nice times.
Oops, wait, you said 1/8 mile, not 1/4 mile. Never mind. Okay, get the header and save up for a dual exhaust and do the electronic ignition like you have planned. Then save up close to $1000 and have your head rebuilt with some mild porting and polishing, big valves, milled for compression, and modified to accept a two barrel carb. Once you get that carb jetted right, you'll be on your way. When your bottom end gives up, do a careful rebuild on your bottom end with the little tweaks that make it better than stock (good balalncing, milled deck, performance cam) and you will be running some nice times.
I didnt catch the 1/8 either.
I was thinking that '10's' and 'budget' dont usually go together.
I was thinking that '10's' and 'budget' dont usually go together.
heres the carb i'm getting.
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... ductid=149
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartp ... ductid=149
grocery getter
Famous Member
fordconvert":2qvp541a said:
Exactly!
here, budget and turbo can go together. Do a search and you'll see you can have some fun.
JHodges":rjkp7oaa said:
You probably have the RBS or YF single barrel on the 250 now. Both are the highest CFM of the 1bbl's I encourage you to try the H/w - 5200. Once you have the 2BBl adapter, you can keep an E-bay Eye out for a 350 CFM 7448 2300 series or with engine mods the 500 CFM version but don't choke the stock engine with too much carb. I run the Holley Weber on a high compression 170 . Some Holley/Webers were spec'd for the 2.8 (170) V6. Most are 2.3 (?cid) spec. The 350 CFM 7448-2300 is a good match for the 250. The H/w will be more drivable and better MPG . The 2300 type will get decent mileage if you keep your foot out of it - yeah right...
Powerband
Full Tilt 250:
Not easy to control...
The stovebolt carb and adapter are a fine budget-minded upgrade for your engine. I don't love this carb, but it works and can be jetted for some decent performance while offering good mileage at the same time. (slightly lean jetting on the primary and slightly rich on the secondary)
I suspect you have the 1-3/4 hole in your head, not the 1.5" which is what the stovebolt adapter is for. Thus, your carb setup will be severely copromised by using the stovebolt adapter. But for $15, it's a way to start. You should try grinding out the adapter to match the hole in your manifold. I don't recall if there is enough material in that adapter to make it all the way. Anyone?
You'll probably want to find an adapter with a 1-3/4" hole, though, to do this job correctly. Clifford makes one, and while it is considerably more expensive that the one you want to get, it will maximize your setup. Look up trans-a-dapt on the Summit website. They probably make one.
When you have your exhaust installed, make sure you have an oxygen sensor bung installed at the same time. You will eventually want to get a wideband o2 sensor in order to get your carb jetting right.
What header are you getting? go dual out.
I suspect you have the 1-3/4 hole in your head, not the 1.5" which is what the stovebolt adapter is for. Thus, your carb setup will be severely copromised by using the stovebolt adapter. But for $15, it's a way to start. You should try grinding out the adapter to match the hole in your manifold. I don't recall if there is enough material in that adapter to make it all the way. Anyone?
You'll probably want to find an adapter with a 1-3/4" hole, though, to do this job correctly. Clifford makes one, and while it is considerably more expensive that the one you want to get, it will maximize your setup. Look up trans-a-dapt on the Summit website. They probably make one.
When you have your exhaust installed, make sure you have an oxygen sensor bung installed at the same time. You will eventually want to get a wideband o2 sensor in order to get your carb jetting right.
What header are you getting? go dual out.
link to the rework I did on my head. Big difference!
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=319561#319561
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=319561#319561
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
My 1971 Maverick currently runs high 10's low 11's in the 1/8 mile and my setup is basically the same....stock 250 except for header with dual exhaust, DUI ignition and 3.55 gears, so you are not too far off.JHodges":3hnqts30 said:
I have to agree with falcon fanatic on the carb. I don't know where all the recommendations for the 32/36 come from. Honestly, it is not big enough for any serious performance.
In my opinion, the Weber 38 is a much better matched carb for our engines. It flows better and doesn't have that wonky progressive linkage . Since changing my carb from the 32/36 to the 38 a year or two ago, I saw no real change in gas millage but a significant improvement in low end power.
In my opinion, the Weber 38 is a much better matched carb for our engines. It flows better and doesn't have that wonky progressive linkage . Since changing my carb from the 32/36 to the 38 a year or two ago, I saw no real change in gas millage but a significant improvement in low end power.
Yeah, the 32/36 was really intended for small bore 4-cyl engines. It kicks butt on a 1500 cc fiat, or yugo, a bit marginal for a 3300 cc ford, though. Still, better than a an autolite 1100!
