Howdy All:
I'd like to propose some in-basket mileage testing. Given the price of gas and reputation of our sixes as gas misers, this might be a good time to make the most of both. This is strictly a self-satisfaction excercise as the only rewards for doing the before and after testing will be spending less for gas and for sharing your successes and debunking myths.
If anyone is interested in participating it would be best if you would agree to some minimum standards.
*Your engine must be in good serviceable tune, have a solid ignition, no leaks, minimize choke function and maximize initial advance, reduced idle speed to minimum, a working odometer or mile measure, consistent weather conditions, and consistent documentation, with refueling at the same pump at the same time of the day and in the same way, driving a repeatable route with not changes in driving habits, making sure to maintain tire psi.
We've already discussed the big gas savers, such as; slowing down, lightening the load, tune up and air up, but these proposals go for the little gains.
Given the above standardazation, I have several questions to pose. The answers could be useful to all. Choose only one test. Move on to another only when you are satisfied that you have completely answered the question.
1st test- If you drive mostly in stop-and-go traffic this test asks that you turn in the low speed air screw from its optimum setting 1/4 to 1/2 turn in, or leaner. This will possibly roughen your idle quality, and only effect gas consumption at idle speeds. Will the gas saving be worth the rough idle? This test is doable on any carb.
2nd test- This test is again for stop-and-go traffic, where on-the-gas, off-the-gas driving is required. On a stock Autolite 1100 the accelerator pump lever has two setting determined by a roll pin. The upper one is marked "LO" and is specified to be used "Above 50 degrees F and/or 5,000 ft elevation". The lower one is marked "HI" and specifies for use "50 degrees F and below".
IF your carb has the fulcrum in the lower "HI" position, which gives a larger, richer pump, establish a before base line and then move the pin to the "LO" or higher hole to lean or lessen the volume of the pump shot.
This test is doable on any carb with a fixed, linkage that is adjustible with hole settings or cams, such as the Holley 2300 or Autolite 2100. It is less repeatable with carbs like the Carter YFs that require a connecting rod to be bent.
I think the only downside to these alterations will be a slight lessening of idle quality and slightly slower acceleration. Gas saving will not be profound, but even at a gallon a month it may be worth it. I know, what I'm proposing is pretty anal and pretty narrow. Hey, if it's not your cup of tea don't sip. I really like documentable results.
If any one has already thought of these and other mileage enhancements please share the results.
keep us posted on your test platform and progress.
Thanks, in advance for sharing.
Adios, David
I'd like to propose some in-basket mileage testing. Given the price of gas and reputation of our sixes as gas misers, this might be a good time to make the most of both. This is strictly a self-satisfaction excercise as the only rewards for doing the before and after testing will be spending less for gas and for sharing your successes and debunking myths.
If anyone is interested in participating it would be best if you would agree to some minimum standards.
*Your engine must be in good serviceable tune, have a solid ignition, no leaks, minimize choke function and maximize initial advance, reduced idle speed to minimum, a working odometer or mile measure, consistent weather conditions, and consistent documentation, with refueling at the same pump at the same time of the day and in the same way, driving a repeatable route with not changes in driving habits, making sure to maintain tire psi.
We've already discussed the big gas savers, such as; slowing down, lightening the load, tune up and air up, but these proposals go for the little gains.
Given the above standardazation, I have several questions to pose. The answers could be useful to all. Choose only one test. Move on to another only when you are satisfied that you have completely answered the question.
1st test- If you drive mostly in stop-and-go traffic this test asks that you turn in the low speed air screw from its optimum setting 1/4 to 1/2 turn in, or leaner. This will possibly roughen your idle quality, and only effect gas consumption at idle speeds. Will the gas saving be worth the rough idle? This test is doable on any carb.
2nd test- This test is again for stop-and-go traffic, where on-the-gas, off-the-gas driving is required. On a stock Autolite 1100 the accelerator pump lever has two setting determined by a roll pin. The upper one is marked "LO" and is specified to be used "Above 50 degrees F and/or 5,000 ft elevation". The lower one is marked "HI" and specifies for use "50 degrees F and below".
IF your carb has the fulcrum in the lower "HI" position, which gives a larger, richer pump, establish a before base line and then move the pin to the "LO" or higher hole to lean or lessen the volume of the pump shot.
This test is doable on any carb with a fixed, linkage that is adjustible with hole settings or cams, such as the Holley 2300 or Autolite 2100. It is less repeatable with carbs like the Carter YFs that require a connecting rod to be bent.
I think the only downside to these alterations will be a slight lessening of idle quality and slightly slower acceleration. Gas saving will not be profound, but even at a gallon a month it may be worth it. I know, what I'm proposing is pretty anal and pretty narrow. Hey, if it's not your cup of tea don't sip. I really like documentable results.
If any one has already thought of these and other mileage enhancements please share the results.
keep us posted on your test platform and progress.
Thanks, in advance for sharing.
Adios, David