Mixing Oz PULP and Avgas

addo

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Who's got thoughts on this?

Just pondering the idea of mixing to get a fuel similar to the old "Super" in potency, with a bit of lead thrown in to help older cars. I know our RONs are differently calculated to the US ones, so the question really relies on local knowledge!
 
Lead will kill an oxygen sensor, so it's a bad idea for any EFI car with an EGO.

Back when we were phasing out leaded fuel, you used to be able to mix leaded regular with unleaded hi-octane and actually end up with an increase over the hi-octane. It was the effect of the lead on the more highly refined unleaded fuel. But it would kill a catalyst.
 
The car in question is non EFI, non-cat so the contingent issues of "poisoning" emissions gear don't count. I'm really looking at the lubricating/protecting qualities of the lead as much as octane rating.

If I were to buy a 20 litre drum of Avgas (just over 5 gallons) what ratio would the dilution be, off your old formula?

I think our "98" is like your 91 in comparative RON, but X is the man to confirm. The other draw with Avgas is the unleaded fuel doesn't last. The line trimmer refused to start this afternoon (stale fuel). :x

Thanks!
 
I could psycho-bable a bib full of verbiage, addo, but won't!


First rule, is find the optimum combination ratio. Basic, cheap process is to add the highest grade leaded to the lowest grade regular gasoline/petrol.

Our Kiwi 91, 96, or 98 (give or take a number or two) is similar to your Aussie 92, 98, or 100. The Yank grades are 89, 93, but they don't sell a 98 grade just yet. The rating difference is
RON+MON
...........2

in the US,

while we Pacific Prisioners of Mother England use RON ratings.

The difference varies, but its about 5 points lower in the land of the US 55 gallon drum. Who ever said Texans always have something bigger haven't tried to embarress them over there conservative octane ratings!

David Vizard noted that the US octane situation whent critical in 1973 when there unleaded 87 to 89 (RON+MON)/2 fuel was made mandatory on all new cars. Before hand, air craft style 105 octane leaded fuels were common.


Today, everywhere except the Middle East gets unleaded 91 RON, 96 RON, and Japan, Aussie and New Zealand get 98 to 100 RON (Mobil Synergy 8000, Shell Optimax, and others), while air craft fuel is still leaded 105 RON in most countiries due to safety issues. The risks of running low shelf life is too much to allow plans to run on 96 unleaded unless some severe restrictions are made on the conditionon plastic pieces and shelf life. With leaded avgas shlf life is very long.

The best option is to rate the octane of the cheapest base fuel (91 or 92 RON) with the octane of the heighest octane avgas additive (105 RON avgas).

On the top use an Imperial 22 gallon drum, and create two columns.

Ist, the total average fuel costs per combination ratio
100% base fuel, 0% additive
90% base fuel, 10% additive
80% base fuel, 20% additive
70% base fuel, 30% additive
60% base fuel, 40% additive
50% base fuel, 50% additive

Then work out the charted calculated average octane rating for the combination.

Your aim is to get the recomended RON the weed wacker maker recomends. This is often 95 RON, (and these days, they set it up for unleaded fuel, and warn that leaded fuel pollutes the sparking plugs or hurts tune).

You make no allowance for the poor shelf life of the base penaut oil grade 91 or 92 RON fuel, becasue the higher the octane the unleaded the worse the shelf life. Regular grades are okay for months. Super and Ultra High are very short life fuels because the are just stock regular with a huge spike of armonatic hydrocrarbons like benzine and toulone. They try to keep the total aromatics below 40%, but benzine goes up to 5% in 95, rather than 3% for the 91 Any avgas added will increase shelf life because Tetra Ethyl Lead is a long life boost to octane, benzene and toulone is a easily evaporated aromatic.


Second thing is to keep a 22 gallon drum upside down, and turn and shake it each week.

Add 0.5 to 1% Ethyl Methyl Ketone or acetone to the mix to keep from precipitate forming.

Do these calculatuions for each combination of fuel, and you'll see something which will suprise you. Petrochemical companies are very good at making certain fuels like 96 and 98 octane, and especially additives like 105 Plus and VP Plus. They do so at the real cost, plus a margin. The retail cost ischarged in additon to its real cost.

This is because they have to refine the oil so its total aromatics% is below 40, and this has to occur even if they add another few % of benzene to rasie the octane rating. You get nothing for nothing with petrol.

All the extra effort must be paid for, or else they will loose a margin and end up having a loss leader. As the farther of the Ford Falcon and four place Thunderbird, Robert Mac Namara would tell you from his grave, loss leaders are evil, and there is no place for it in modern society. Unless your a lover of giving gifts to the poor.

If you want to not get paid for brewing your own long life high octane AddoBrew, Adam, then Shell, Mobil, Caltex, Ampol or Challenge won't stop you.


Whew! Hope that made some sense. I can do some calculations, but then you wouldn't learn to do it yourself!
 
Here is Toowoomba (Queensland) the local BP sells E10 petrol - 91 octane ulp with 10% ethanol. The old wagon seems to run well on it (so far) and does not need as much premium unleaded in the mix! I recall reading somewhere that ethanol increases the octane rating but LOWERS the energy content per litre - is this true xtaxi?? A very learned mechanic / engineer friend of mine tells me you need fairly high compression ratios to work well with ethanol blend fuels. What has everyone else found? There was also something around about using mothballs in your fuel mixture to up the octane rating. Appartently it works but can gum up the fuel lines, carby, etc.

Kendall
 
I've heard ethanol will reduce detonation (so you can run higher boost on forced induction), but yes, it has about 30% less energy. But it is a very clean burning fuel.

I believe our Avgas is either
(i) Leaded - Green in colour and 130 RON
(ii) Unleaded - blue in colour and 100 RON

Can't guarantee it though.
 
I was under the impression that Super was equal to about 97 RON in our system. Also, if Avgas is rated purely the same way as ULP, then the maths are simple!

97 = (a×(91/100) + (100-a)×(105/100))

Solved for a

a = 800/14 or approximately 57% ULP. Big drums are out for fire reasons. But in practical terms it means that a 20 litre tin of the good gear will need 26 litres of ULP. It's be costly for a daily driver, but this won't be.

*************************************************************

Next Question:

How many micrograms per litre of lead is in Avgas? Not TEL, but the mineral itself. I heard someone assert that an average car passed 5kg of LEAD over 200 000 Km. They have got to be talking through their ring. 5 grams maybe?

Even at 12 litres per 100 km, that's only 24000 litres. 5 kilos of Pb would mean 5 grams per 24 litres - impossible!

There's going to be more to come, but let's nut this out so far... :wink:
 
Blended fuels first.

American summer fuel is ethanol blended with what they call oxygenated fuel. I simple terms, regular or super spiked with up to 10% alcohol.

In terms of power, it leans the optimum air / fuel ratio from 14.7:1 to 15.4:1. In practice, it improves emissions, doesn't hurt fuel consumption, but it looses out on hot fuel handling and shelf life. Which is why they don't add more than 8% ethanol in most states. Any more tha 12.5% and its crap and has issues with fuel separation and vapour lock on a normal 9:1 compression car. In the 40's and 50's, the Brits added alcohol to fuel, and it gave the 70 RON pool oil a chance of getting up to a 77 RON rating, but it was still crap. It's not a new idea, but its used for sound economic and envirnomental reasons. Since the US Government subsidises its farmers to make grain and miase, ethanol from paper or food processing is a by product which can be added with no finacial hardship to local US or imported oil.


Lead content

Unleaded is really a low lead fuel. Most is natural.

The mandated minimum amount of lead is very small, about 2.7 x 10-4 grams per litre.

The historical use of total lead has been 2 to 3 thousand times as much in the 60's to 70's.

In NZ up to 1986, it Super grade (97 RON) used to be 0.85 grams of lead per litre, as high as the Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia, and it casued an outcry. (New Chev Caprices and Luminias exported from Australia to the Middle East run leaded premium fuel without catalyists even today, and the lead content is still 0.55grams or so per litre over there!).

As of 1986, worldwide standarisation of regular leaded allowed it to be dropped to about 0.45 or 0.3 grams per litre (about 1 gram per US gallon)

Until January 1986 in the US, Regular 87 to 89 (RON+MON)/2 auto fuel contained a maximum of 1 gram of lead per gallon, or 0.27 g per litre.

2005, US regular contains a mandated maximum of 0.1 of a gram per gallon. According to my web search, no minimums were established under the Federal lead content regulations so it is possible to obtain regular with the same lead content as unleaded, or .001 of a gram per gallon.

That puts current US unleaded fuel at 2.7 x 10-4 grams per litre.


In America, if your Falcon averaged 20 Imperial miles per gallon, and every ounce of lead went out the exhast, then a yearly journey of 10 000 miles would dump 0.613 grams of unleaded's natural lead per year.


If it was 0.27 g/litre leaded, thats 6.13 kilograms ( 13.5 pounds) of lead into the wake if its was leaded gasoline.

105 RON Avgas (called 100LL in the US) has 2 g of lead per gallon, or 0.55 g/litre. The same Falcon runing this would belch 12.26 kgs or 27 pounds of lead per year at that usage.

At 12 litres per 100 km fuel useage, and 200 000 km, then an unleaded fuel could belch
over 6.5 grams at 2.7 x 10-4 grams per litre,
over 6.5 kg's at 0.27 g/litre per litre,
over 13.2 kg's at 0.55g /litre at 0.55 grams per litre.


That assumes all goes out the pipe. It doesn't, but most does. It can build up as a percipate, and is found in the oil, engine parts, gas tank, fuel lines and filters.
 
So if one was to somehow stuble onto a few spare litres of methonal , how much do you mix into 60 litres without doin any damage :lol: .
 
No more than 12.5% if its in a warm climate above 13 degrees C (like Auckland1).

In Central Otago, no more than 6% in winter.

M15 is a 15% methonal blend, but it wasn't sucessfull, and it increases fuel consumption.

Although 100 %Methonal has an ideal 6:1 air : fuel ratio, it must have a jet or injector 1.57 larger to flow the same amount as petrol . This means a stock petrol jet or injector will be too small, and that a 100% methanol engine will run lean.

In additon to the need for richer jet settings, the methanol causes the fuel to be leaned off becasue the jet size (fuel flow) is lower with methanol. This is also the case with a 6 to 12.5% methanol/petroleum blend.

So your 500 Edlebrock will run a nice managable amount leaner with methaonol/petrol blend, and if its got higher compression, it will work well.

XF engines which knock on unleaded 91 will run very well on a 6 to 12.5%blend of 91 and methanol.

Remember, methanol is able to run at 15:1 on a mildly cammed engine. It has a RON rating of about 130 octane. 12.5% 130 RON Methanol/ 91 RON petrol is a 95.9 octane fuel, and although it is inferior to 96 or 98 high octane for fuel system durability and cold weather phase separation, its a good way of using a few litres of your mates oval track methanol. :wink:


For 60 liters, grab 7.5 litres of methanol, and add it to 52.5 litres of 91 octane. Result is an almost 96 octane

If you use 96 Super or BP 98 ultimate, you'll get 100.25 octane and 102 octane respectively.

The issue of phase separtion and cold weather hygroscopic water uptake is worse with your own blends, and the fuel system can be prone to attack with these blends.
 
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