motor cuts out need help

[Anonymous]

is this normal ?

What part of "colliding with the rotating reluctor" sounds normal??????

There is a little bent metal tab the advance plate slides under. Sounds like the tab is bent too high up or the plate isn't under the tab.

 

[Anonymous]

i saw that metal sticking up do i just bend it down futher. will this cause my cutting out problem

 

[Anonymous]

I noticed the pickup coil in my distributor was hitting the reluctor (part with spkoes that spins) so I just bent the tab down a little more and problem fixed.

You still have other issues. Maybe that pickup coil inside got damaged?

 

[addo]

Which would give a weak spark.

Cocacolaman, PLEASE go and look at the spark it makes. That will tell an awful lot.

 

[Anonymous]

ill give the spark a look later this afternoon when the sun goes down a little more. im on call today and messing with this between service calls. one other question will a rebuilt dizzy from auto zone or advanced auto work in this application noticed on their website there are only about 50.00 bucks. i dont want to send this one back to calif. and have to wait to get it back. its getting a little cooler in fl. and im ready to ride a little bit. thanx for all of youalls input cocacoleman

 

[Anonymous]

There isn't much that can go wrong with a distributor.

Get one from a wrecker for $10?

 

[Anonymous]

i dont know alot on how a dizzy works and what recurving does. something to do with when advance starts in . everything i read says these dizzies are very fragile and must be set to car motor tranny and rearend ratio the guy that recurved the dizzy even wanted to know the tire size. i just wanted to know if one from auto zone would work without it being recurved.

 

[Anonymous]

There is no black art involved in recurving.

Under that plate there are weights and springs. Re-curving is just changing the weights or springs or how much they travel.

Under my plate was two weights, and a light spring and a heavy spring.

I am turbo'd, so I wanted LESS centrifugal advance, soI could set more initial advance.

Taking off the smaller, lighter spring only worked out perfect for me. It allowed the weights to be moved up halfway already, even at idle. This gave me a lot better torque to leave the line, but still not be over advanced at high power.

very simple.

If I were you, I would set the timing at idle so it runs smooth, then move the distributor while running to retard the timing so you can just barely hear it start to run "not as smooth" - -- but long before it runs rough. That usually works best for me.

 

[Anonymous]

ok i understand somewhat. the reason i had the dizzy recurved in the first place was when i ordered my carb. from pony carbs the guy there suggested i have this done since this motor i was rebuilding had all of the smog stuf on it and i was taking all that off. i think something is going on inside thedizzy . i dont want to send the dizzy back to calif. where the work was done orginally. so if one from autozone will work i could buy one and be up and running in a couple of days. i just dont want to buy one and it will not work since it was not recurved.

 

[Anonymous]

i just dont want to buy one and it will not work since it was not recurved.

1) always stay away from autozone. always,

2) whether it comes from:
another car
in the wrecking yard
or the store,
it will not be curved

3) there is almost nothing that can go wrong with these things!

4) Make sure you are wired up right.

 

[Anonymous]

got to be wired up right the motor ran really strong for a couple of days then started to cut out on accelleration

 

[Anonymous]

Make sure you aren't having problems getting fuel

 

[Anonymous]

im going to check that tommorow night just trying to get some pointers right now thanx for all your input

 

[69.5Mav]

cocacolaman

With a 42 year old car you could have a fuel blockage any where in the system. At idle the fuel delivery is more than enough so the carb is full to the limit of the float but as you put the engine under load the fuel demand increases past the amount the fuel system can delivere and you empty the carb and the engine is starved for gas. Its hard to start because you need to refill the carb enogh so the accellerator pump can prime the engine. You have anouther fuel filter in the gas tank that may be partially blocked. I would blow out all the fuel lines and check the tank filter for blockage. This sounds alot like a fuel starvation problem to me.

69.5mav

 

[Anonymous]

You have anouther fuel filter in the gas tank that may be partially blocked.

In tank screen - - I had that happen to me in my '79 F-150.
I was chasing that problem for WEEKS!!

 

[69.5Mav]

Linc's 200

Me too. My sons 73 Mav had a sock over the inlet. It was blocked. You could drive a few blocks then the car would starve out. I replaced the fuel pump and it helped for a short while. Finaly I blew the line out with high pressure air. That solved that problem but it allowed all the acumulated junk in the gas tank to get pumped up to the carb fuel filter pluging it. I would be able to drive about 100 miles before I would get stuck and have to change the carb filter. I had a regular production line going drying out used filters and blowing them out to reuse them. I finaly got a gas tank kit from Eastwood and refurbisghed the tank. Not a problem since.

Sam

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI
I didn't read thou all the post but with the recurved dizzy 14 deg of timming might be too much try backing it off some and see what happens.. like 10 or 12 deg..
tim

 

[Anonymous]

I had a regular production line going drying out used filters and blowing them out to reuse them.

Been there - done that!!!

HI
I didn't read thou all the post but with the recurved dizzy 14 deg of timming might be too much try backing it off some and see what happens.. like 10 or 12 deg..
tim

Tim - - - the WHOLE POINT of running a recurved distributor is SOLELY so you CAN run more initial advance!

 

[Anonymous]

ok guys still trying to get motor to accelerate without cutting out. heres what i have eliminated it down too. have spark at all pluggs and motor is getting fuel. my problem is im not getting any vacume at vacume advance when you give it a quick shot of fuel. i have checked vacume at intake manifold where tranny gets its vacume and im getting 20 psi of vacume when i hook up guage to dizzy vacume i dont get any. i pulled vacume hose and checked it and it is not blocked can blow through it fine. i can suck on vacume line with my mouth and the vacume advance arm will move and not leak down. im running out of ideas any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanx cocacolaman

 

[Anonymous]

That is the way it is SUPPOSED to be - usually - on most engines. Dist vac advance should be hooked to "ported" vac on the carb, not "manifold" vac.
"Pprted" is the little slot ABOVE the throttle plate, and you won't get vac to the advance until the throttle is opened above idle.

Now, lots of guys are driving around with the vac advance DISCONNECTED (including me) , so that is not your problem. You are still having fuel problems or the timing is WAY off .... or something