Motor Oil Question

franko66

Well-known member
I know this question has been wore out. whats the best oil to run in a stock Ford 200 6? I have been running with Rotella .A diesel engine grade per some post I read in the past.It has zinc in the oil to reduce friction wear.It just seems a little thick when starting this winter. Do you think Royal Purple would be a better oil in the colder months than Rotella. This winter When I do a cold start I hear a few lifters tick until the engine runs for 2 or 3 minutes.Afterwards no lifter noise. Can start it up 6 hours later, still no lifter noise. I am ready to try a different oil grade and viscosity. Whats the best year round oil to use for a 1966 ford 200 inline 6 cyl ? A little lifter noise is probably normal with these engines when cold starts in Winter. Never owner one until this one.
franko66

Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:40 pm
Location: Loveland,OH
 
8) that depends on how cold it gets in your area, most places you can run 15w-40 with no issues in winter. as long as the rotella is working for you, there is no need to change it for another brand.
 
this is from the Lincoln forum and I found it very useful and it may help you.

OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS
By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts
Positively, Inc.

About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.

A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed ! camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures.

This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines.

Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unrea! sonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rat ed oil on flat tappet engines.

Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars
(Redline). Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars.

To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates! are causing very early destruction of cams and followers”. They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.

This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.

Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware ! of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tapp ets that couldn’t rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been finding.

Comp Cams put out “#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was “While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the–shelf oil”.
 
15/40 is pretty heavy to run in winter.
Any 5/30 will work fine.
stirthepot.gif

Whatever is on sale.
Just add a bit of ZDDP additive if that's of concern to you.
 
8) if you want to use an additive, stp in the blue can has plenty of zddp, and the red can has even more.
 
I run 10w30 dino oil in my 200. If I ever do a full and proper rebuild on the engine, I'll switch to 5w30 synthetic.

I run 20w50 in my truck, even in the winter, with no issues other than I let it warm up some prior to actually driving it.

As far as all the hype about removing zinc. If you remember, the same "alarms" were raised when leaded gas was removed from the market. The result has been cleaner and longer lasting engines. Ever rebuild a leaded gas engine? NASTY!

No oil company will make an oil that results in poorer performance. It would be a death sentence.
 
8) you are right slade, but remember that there was a period of change that we went through during the switchover from leaded to unleaded fuel. the oil companies did finally put in a lubricant to prevent valve recession, but it did take a few years. now the oil companies are working to put in an anti wear additive to prevent cam shaft failures, but will also not harm the catalytic converters at the same time. in the mean time a decent additive is still inexpensive.
 
Thanks for the good info. What about the Royal Purple oil? I have about 5 quarts I got from a friend in need of cash at a good deal.Will it hurt a 140,000 mile 6 cylinder 200 due to being synthetic? any problem with running synthetic oil after draining the Rotella?
 
It has'nt used any oil since I've owned it. I have done 3 total oil changes through it approx. 9,000 miles.I just think a winter blend would cause less tapping on startup in the cold winter months. It does quiet down after a couple of minutes. Its just one lifter ticking for a few minutes but it gets aggravating.
 
8) the only issue you might have when switching to a synthetic oil is the possibilities of leaks. the leaks are already there, just plugged up, and the synthetic oil cleans out the plugs. otherwise there are no issues switching to a synthetic oil.
 
Royal Purple is great oil. Worth the money if you are willing to extend the interval that you change the oil. While I don't mind going to 5k on synthetic, and have occasionally gone 10k (if 5k happens in the begging of winter), I'm not sure if I could live with going to 20k to make royal purple worth it.

I've switched several cars to synthetic above 100k. In fact, I just picked up a 98 V70 GLT with 100k miles and swapped it to synthetic without a worry.

The whole part about crud and leaks is kind of old news. Most oils these days (even dino oil, though maybe no cheap generics) has so many detergents in it that there is little to no build up of sludge holding gaskets together. Now, 10-15 years ago, this was no necessarily the case. If you've been changing your oil at least once a year for the last 5-10 years with good quality dino oil and you have no leaks, it is not likely you'll develop them now when you switch to synthetic.
 
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