All Small Six My autolite 1100 has driven me mad

[ofairlane]

Hi guys and gals, this isn't a new story to this site, I am sure. My 63 170 in my 62 Comet was running great, then the Autolite 1100 started to leak like crazy, from around the diaphram and leaving me with an empty carb tomorrow. I then bought a new Henkyo carb on Amazon, it really ran good for a few drives, then wasn't running so good. So, i dug the leaking one back out, put it on the car, it ran better but still leaked, I now was sure the new carb was crap. So, I took the diaphram off the new carb, put it on the old carb, no leak and running good but not great, that was yesterday. Today, I went out for a short drive, I had to turn around ASAP, wasn't sure I would make it back home.
I did rebuild the old 1100 before I bought the Henkyo, still leaked, I am thinking now, what else can I do ? In the past, on my V8's it was easy, I would buy a small CFM Edlebrock carb and they worked flawlessly for me.
What is a guy to do ? Do the 1bbl to 2bbl adapters work ? Is the Holley 1940 a good carb and is it an easy bolt on and drive ?
Like I said, this isn't a new question here, I am wondering what others have done in the past ? I know lots of guys swear by the Autolite 110 and I did too, for a while I did

 

[DON]

Howdy from fla!
Just f leaking is your main problem and have a new gasket, I would check two things.
1: make sure mating surfaces are flat. I bought a big flat fine tooth file and hit both surfaces. You can tell when it is flat by the shiny part
2: make sure your screws aren’t bottoming out before the gasket is clamped

These steps should help. I also don’t know what kind of diaphragm you got with the carb. I am assuming you are talking about an accelerator diaphragm, it get a good one
Hope it helps

 

[ofairlane]

Howdy from fla!
Just f leaking is your main problem and have a new gasket, I would check two things.
1: make sure mating surfaces are flat. I bought a big flat fine tooth file and hit both surfaces. You can tell when it is flat by the shiny part
2: make sure your screws aren’t bottoming out before the gasket is clamped

These steps should help. I also don’t know what kind of diaphragm you got with the carb. I am assuming you are talking about an accelerator diaphragm, it get a good one
Hope it helps

Don, the leaking is from the Dashpot housing cover, I rebuilt it, new gaskets, it isn't screws or gaskets, it is the dashpot itself, the outside cover.

 

[DON]

I think there might be a terminology problem here. It might help to post a pic of the problem

 

[gb500]

Did you put a new accelerator pump diaphragm in ?
They get old and crack.
The accelerator pump cover can be tapped flat if its warped from over tightening

 

[BobbyA]

And the answer is?

 

[SBellew]

I know this is an older post, but I found this while watching a video the other night on how to possibly fix a leaky dashpot or accelerator housing. There is also a small metal spacer you can install that puts pressure in between the screws to help seal the housing.

 

[66MustangSprint6]

Guys, I have a 1966 Sprint 200. Started as rough running but would run ok after being warmed up. Then on the way to a repair facility, car stopped running. Had to have it towed. Now, we are trying to restart engine after having brake work was done. We cleaned fuel lines. We drained the tank. We are using new Ethanol free gas. We even rebuilt the carburetor using "Mr Carburetor" in DFWTX. Now it spits gas. See video. I am about to take carb back to Mr Carburetor tomorrow. But car still won't start. Any other suggestions? (Engine has spark, new plugs, although they were fouled, and electronic ignition)

 

[John Ha]

It looks like gas is leaking out of your accelerator pump (left bottom of the screen). But that won't necessarily cause the car to suddenly stop running. Failure of the electronic ignition will though. Are you sure you're getting spark to the plugs at the right time?

Rock Auto sells remanufactured carburetors. I replaced mine (I have a 250 in my car so it's an RBS) with an Autoline unit from them and it's working great.

Edit to add: Those cheap carburetors made overseas are garbage. The one I bought wouldn't even allow the car to start. That's what pushed me to the remanufactured units on Rock Auto.

 

[bmbm40]

Guys, I have a 1966 Sprint 200. Started as rough running but would run ok after being warmed up. Then on the way to a repair facility, car stopped running. Had to have it towed. Now, we are trying to restart engine after having brake work was done. We cleaned fuel lines. We drained the tank. We are using new Ethanol free gas. We even rebuilt the carburetor using "Mr Carburetor" in DFWTX. Now it spits gas. See video. I am about to take carb back to Mr Carburetor tomorrow. But car still won't start. Any other suggestions? (Engine has spark, new plugs, although they were fouled, and electronic ignition)

Your 1966 200 may have the LOM/SCV carb and distributor which are unique and can be problematic. If you changed your carb to a non SCV carb that can create problems. Not saying that is what is causing your issue this is more FYI.

Classic Inlines Ford Six Load-O-Matic Distributor & Spark Control Valve

 

[DON]

The gas is definitely coming from the accelerator pump cover. Remove the cover-4 screws, and inspect the diaphragm for an hole or tear and the cover and carb mating surfaces. Make sure the are flat. The covers especially can get warped. If not flat take a big flat file and go over the mating surfaces. The covers can be replaced as well.

 

[66MustangSprint6]

Your 1966 200 may have the LOM/SCV carb and distributor which are unique and can be problematic. If you changed your carb to a non SCV carb that can create problems. Not saying that is what is causing your issue this is more FYI.

Classic Inlines Ford Six Load-O-Matic Distributor & Spark Control Valve

thanks for the reply, i will take this carb back to the carb rebuild guy today, but your comment about SCV had me looking up what that means. It is original equipment Autolite 1100 carb. My dad or I have owned the car since 1974, so we know its original. What is Selective Control Valve ? And how does one diagnose electronic ignition set? THanks in advance for your reply.

 

[John Ha]

thanks for the reply, i will take this carb back to the carb rebuild guy today, but your comment about SCV had me looking up what that means. It is original equipment Autolite 1100 carb. My dad or I have owned the car since 1974, so we know its original. What is Selective Control Valve ? And how does one diagnose electronic ignition set? THanks in advance for your reply.

It's actually "Spark Control Valve". In a nutshell, the Load-o-matic (LOM) design had the carb and distributor working together to control spark timing. If one unit (distributor or carburetor) is replaced with a newer non-LOM unit, the system doesn't work and your engine won't run correctly. There's a good tutorial in the Tech section (you may have to be logged in here to see it).

 

[DON]

And how does one diagnose electronic ignition set?

The original setup is not really electronic ignition. Do you have a newer distributor or is it original? Does it have points and condenser?

 

[66MustangSprint6]

The original setup is not really electronic ignition. Do you have a newer distributor or is it original? Does it have points and condenser?

Thanks for reply, Don. The points and condenser only were replaced by a Pertronics setup over 10 years ago, it has been running fine until a few weeks ago. I took the carb back to "Mr. Carburetor" yesterday and he flatened out the accelerator pump cover. Little taps on the areas that were warped!!! Then installed a new gasket and metal plate inbetween carb body and the accelerator pump cover. Will re install carb today. This Carb leak was a detour. Now back to diagnosing no start problem.

 

[DON]

I don’t ever remember anyone having any problems with petronix. They are quite durable. I would think they either work or they don’t. If you are getting spark, it’s working. They can’t really cause a spark misfire to one cylinder.
When diagnosing, an engine needs spark, fuel/air and compression to run

 

[DON]

Remember too, many members- including myself, have gone with a different distributor and a Webber 34/36 with the 2V adapter. I recommend it. It improves drivability, throttle response. We can give guidance if you want to go that route. I would give it a difficulty rating of 5 out of 10. Mostly for adapting the throttle linkage and then running fuel lines.

 

[Alkraut]

The Holley 1940 with full ported vacuum, no SCV is an option when used with a non-Load O Matic distributor which has dual advance, vacuum and centrifugal.

 

[DON]

I am not sure you would get the drivability improvements with another one barrel as you do with the two barrel progressive Webber

 

[awasson]

I am not sure you would get the drivability improvements with another one barrel as you do with the two barrel progressive Webber

I tend to agree. Even if my engine was stock, I would prefer driving it with a Weber. The 32/36 progressive would be a good choice.

My only concern is that @66MustangSprint6 probably has a load-o-matic distributor with a Petronix module and the LOM distributor has no mechanical advance. It might be tunable by hooking to manifold vacuum but I’m not sure. I’d want an HEI or a Duraspark II on it, just to be on the safe side.