Need radiator/fan recommendation for '65 Mustang w/ 250 cid

[Anonymous]

My '65 has a 250 transplanted in it and it's an inch longer than the 200, so the fan/radiator clearance is very tight. I'm overheating and would like to upgrade to a nice aluminum radiator with a better fan (flex? electric?) that will fit.

The engine is a little pumped up with 264 cam and headers, but still restricted by stock head/intake, so I'm probably not even doing 200 HP.

Does anyone have a recommendation that will fit? Price isn't a major object, I'd like somethiing that looks really nice if possible as well.

Thank you for your help.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ford Fan;

1st know that your stock '65 radiator has 1.25" inlet and outlet. The stock 250 radiators have 1.5" inlet and outlets. When swaping in a 250, it is not uncommon to also swap a 200 thermostat housing on to the 250 to solve the upper radiator hose mismatch, but the bottom, out of the water pump is usually a mismatch of some sort. Neither help to move coolant.

I solved my 250 in a '65 Ranchero heating problems by removing the radiator, having it disassembled, rodded out, and had the 1 1/4" inlets and outlets replaced with 1 1/2" pieces. I also replaced the hoses with the correct 250 pieces and the radiator cap. I did have to shorten both the upper and lower hoses for a clean fit.

I still have a stock 4 blade fan, but will replace it soon with an electric pusher.

I have not found a shroud that will work.

Make sure your timing and air/fuel mixture is correct. Know that the stock 250 has a horrible quench band and as a result poor combustion efficiency.

What year 250 are you running? What carb?

Adios, David

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Howdy David,

Sorry for the delayed reply, been on vacation...

So, do you have a recommendation on a thicker radiator that will fit? I'm aware of the hose diameter problem, and was hoping to just order an aluminum radiator with the right diameters.

Also, can you please explain " the stock 250 has a horrible quench band and as a result poor combustion efficiency. " I'm sorry, but don't know what quench band means.

My 250 is a '69 and the carb is a stock one barrel autolite (1101 I believe).

thank you for your advice, it's much appreciated.

 

[WhitePony]

FordFan,

I think what David is talking about is the low quench band created by the huge deck height in the 250. The positive deck height refers to the area of the cylinder above the piston when the piston is at TDC (top dead center). A block with a zero deck height would have the piston flush with the top of the block at TDC. The 250's had a very large positive deck height of .100" to .150". The quench band is the area below the combustion chamber that adds turbulance to the fuel/air mixture as it's compressed. This is comprised of the block's deck height along with the thickness of the head gasket. I believe that David has stated that a total deck height of .040 is ideal to get the best quench to bore ratio.

David, Hope I didn't steal your thunder.

Kris

 

[CoupeBoy]

Will a bent8 radiator work? I was reading last night in a mustang restoration guide and I think I remember reading that the inlet and outlet sizes are the same on the 250 and 302 ('69-'73)

-ron

 

[WhitePony]

Hmmm....... Doesn't the bent 8 radiators have the inlet and outlet sides switched?

 

[69.5Mav]

Hmmm....... Doesn't the bent 8 radiators have the inlet and outlet sides switched?



Not for mavericks.
69.5mav

 

[Does10s]

Buy an aluminum "universal" Ford style from Summit or Jegs. You'll have fab up some mounts for it but they are cheap and work great.
Later,
Will