Need to pump gas padal to run at higher rpm

[Anonymous]

I have a 170ci that needs work, but now have a new problem with it.... I went to start it, and it starts up fine when choke is out. Let it warm up, and push choke in, and it will idle but still needs to have choke pulled out some to idle without getting to the point that it almost stalls. I just got the car, and I needed to have the choke out just a bit to keep it running when I first got it as well... Now, it will stall when I step on the gas pedal to drive away, or just step down on the pedal to run the engine at a higher rpm. I can get it to run at a higher rpm only by pumping the gas paedal. To keep it running at the higher rpm I must keep puping the pedal. A new fuel pump was put on before I bought it. Car was driven very very little before I bought it, so mostly sitting in barn the past few years. It's in a 62 falcon with machanical fuel pump that has vaccum for the wipers, and a 3 speed manual trans. Could this be a stuck float in the carb?
Thanks! :roll:

 

[trashline]

i think my first suggestion would be to buy a carborator rebuild kit. you can pretty much get them anywhere. alot of your problems look back onto the carb i think so do this first. where is shoemakersville in pa? im in levittown near philly? jw

 

[66200i6]

Check the accelerator pump diaphragm to solve the acceleration issue. The need to run with the manual choke on slightly is a clue you are running lean. Check for vacuum leaks, which would cause a lean condition.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

I went to Kutztown Univeristy and have an ex girlfriend who lived in shoemakersville...and my Mom now lives in Lititz

small world.

check for an Amish cart splinter in your carb....

chaz

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI
I would start with checking for fuel flow. Sounds like it not getting gas.

1) for the idle probleum make sure that the idle screw ( not the mixture screw in the base of the carb.) is turned in enoff to alow for it to idle when the choke is all the way off. (the same cam operates the fast idle as well as regular idle).

2) make sure you have fuel going into the carb. (pull fuel line at carb and crank motor)

3) I think there is a filter in the carb where the fuel line go's into it. ( If there is an adaptor on the carb ( a larger nut looking thing ) that the fuel line attaches to there maybe a filter in there).

4) then I would check to see if the float is adjusted right. at this point tho it might be a good idea to just get a kit and rebuild the carb. very simple carb to work on. also I would add a inline filter. Between the pump and the tank if it sat for a long time as you said there maybe alot of rust in the tank plugging stuff up..

Hope this helps.
Tim

 

[BIGREDRASA]

When a car sits too long, sediment/rust build up in the gas tank. They will quickly plug up the stock fuel filter. BTDT.
Replace the filter. If it is one of the small filters that screws into the carb, add a larger, see-through unit.
Of course, it could also be another of the thiings cited above..

 

[Anonymous]

I agree, the carb does need a rebuilding. I'm going to take the air cleaner off, and take a look see... Looking inside the trunk, the gas tank looks to be newer than an original, for it shines, but has some rust along the edges where it bolts in to the trunk. I've got an extra in line gas filter I am going to put on. Maybe even tap on the carb some... maybe stuck float.... who knows, maybe it will do the trick! I'll let you guys know what's up with it, when I get it solved. Thanks!

Dennis

 

[66200i6]

An easy visual test is to remove the air cleaner and watch for a little squirt of fuel when you pump the throttle plate. No fuel? A quick and easy replacement of the accelerator pump from the outside and you are on your way.

You can plan on pulling the carb for a total rebuild early on a Sat. morning.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, here ya go..... It now works again, and all I did was tap the carb with a plastic srewdriver by the float area, and the problem went away as quick as it came. I did see that my fuel line at the carb is wet, and did tighten it up some, but still needs more... Did not want to strip it. Can ya use that teflon plumbers tape on those threads? Anyone know.... I took that fitting off all the way to see if dirt was clogging the screen, but that was clean... Still need to add an inline filter though. Kinda got a miss, or a dead spot when I try to get on it some. Looked at the distributor cap, and it could use a new one. But most of all, the rotor has a small hole wore in it at the spot that it spins on at the cap... under the coil wire part of the cap... So I really need a rotor! Already put new wires, and plugs in it. So, I want to thank you all on the replies to my quest for help on the matter. The last time I needed help, this turned out to be the place to come. I'm not a motorhead, but working on these old falcons is not too hard..... just irritating sometimes....
Thanks Again!!

 

[Lazy JW]

Well, here ya go..... It now works again, and all I did was tap the carb with a plastic srewdriver by the float area, and the problem went away as quick as it came..... Kinda got a miss, or a dead spot when I try to get on it some.

You definitely need a carb rebuild kit.
Joe

 

[trashline]

yes you can use the the thread tape but be careful put it a couple of threads back on the fuel filter as to not allow the tape to break and get inside the carb and clog something.