"new" 1963 Fairlane questions

[Anonymous]

I am new to the site & I am happy I found a site like this for help. I have never owned an older car & I just purchased a 63 Fairlane to play around with & restore. It hasn't ran for 4 years & has a rebuilt 200ci engine with only 14k miles. The guy that I bought it from cranked it over & it started right up. After 15 seconds, gas started coming out of the top of the carburator (& below the air filter). I think that after sitting for so long, the carburator needs some work. Should I replace the whole carburator or should I get a rebuild kit. Any recomendations on what the best one to get is? I am not the most mechanically-inclined guy, is it hard to do? Any other information is helpful. I appreciate all the help & I am sure that I will be on this site quite a bit seeking help throughout my project. Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

I forgot......it is a 200ci single bbl, just was also wondering if anyone can tell me the replacement number on the carb?

 

[shmoozo]

It sounds like maybe the gas that was in the carb when the car was parked deteriorated and gunked up the thing. Perhaps the float stuck down and the carb's fuel bowl overflowed.

If something like that is what happened, then maybe the carb just needs to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, and that would mean a rebuild kit would probably be a good idea.

Hey, rebuild kits aren't too expensive and if all the carb needs is a cleaning and some fresh gaskets and such that'll take care of it.

 

[kukm66]

Give us the casting number on the intake manifold. This will give some options on what type of carb you might want to install or rebuild.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy ggg:

And welcome to The Forum!

for the '63 model year the fairlanes, with an OEM 200 only came with an Auto trans. Also the 1st year for the Autolite 1100. The code for this carb should be- C3OF-H. It is a 1.2" venturi and is rated to flow 185 cfm. IT should have an automatic choke.

The leak is most likely a needle valve under the float sticking open. You might be able to just open, clean and align the needle valve. Caution- On an older rebuild like this it is likely that you will tear a gasket or two in disassembly. It is best to have a rebuild kit on hand.- just in case.

The other likely hood is that with a car that is 45 years old parts may not be original, so give us as much detailed info about what you do have.

Again, welcome and enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it. I am trying to get this bad boy up & running as soon as I can. The ONLY numbers I found on the carb were on the passenger side & they were SM 144.

 

[Anonymous]

The engine casting number is 06DE 6015-B

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

There is a head casting on top of the intake log behind the carb, and a block code found under the exhaust manifold. Both would be useful in figuring what you have.

"06DE 6015-B" Is that for the head or the block? PLease look again. The 1st digit is most likely a "C" or a "D". To the best of my knowledge, there are no "O6" codes.

C6 = 1966. If that is true this is not likely the original engine.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

It very well could of been a "C" instead of an "O", it was hard to read. Should I just get the carb kit first & try that before getting a new carb?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

I sure would. It will be alot less expensive. Plus, there is no guarentee that a new/rebuilt carb will be any better.

Give it a try.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Like I said above, I am not the most mechanically-inclined person & I have never did a kit before. Is it something I could do & what are some of the things that I need to do & what not to do? Thanks again!

 

[ludwig]

Read the instructions carefully, all the way through. Make sure you have all the tools required and identify the parts on the carb before you start pulling them off. Lay them off to the side with a lable if you fear you might forget what it is.
Get an aerosol can of compressed air from Office Depot to blow out the holes and channels and such.
Work on a single-color surface, like a white board or a piece of butcher paper. That way you won't lose any little parts.
If you use some kind of carb cleaner, use a plastic bowl of some kind so you don't make a spark. The bowl must not melt in the solvent. Test this first.

DON'T ASK THE COUNTER GUY HOW TO DO IT. DON'T ASK HIM WHAT TO DO IF YOU GET STUCK AT SOME POINT. Come back here with a pic if you have a question.

Just work slowly and carefully, making sure you have all the stuff before you start. My first carb rebuild was a 2bbl Rochester for a 318 Plymouth. Believe me, you can do this one.