Hey I have been poking around this forum for about a month now hoping to learn more about inlines for a possible project. I am supposed to have already gotten a 65 ford mustang inline but the guy keeps post ponning the time later and later. Anyhow from what I hear it hasnt even been attempted to be started in god knows how many years, but when I went and looked at it everything seemed real clean and most likely in working order. So the question is does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do to get it started and possible things to look at while im figuring it all out. Also what kinda average cost would you say a 300+hp 200 build might run?
New to the forum and new car
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First, Welcome!
2nd, to your question.
300HP depends on where you want the HP? 300HP at the flywheel (like modern cars are rated) is not too extreme. Engine modification will likely include a new AL head, carb, probably either really high compression or forced air of some sort. New Cam, ignition, headers would also be needed. That base package is around $3000 or so, depending on how you source the parts.
Then, however you have to factor in other things needed to accomodate that HP. If you have the generic 6 cylinder transmission (either 2.77 3 speed manual or C4 auto) you will likely have to upgrade as that much HP will likely chew it up fast (at least the 2.77, not sure on the auto side). That much HP will also eat up the stock rear end. I'm around 200 BHP on my car and that chewed my stock rear end up in a matter of months. I upgraded to a V-8 8" rear end to accomodate the power. That means new brakes in the rear as well. That will also mean you will likely want to upgrade your front brakes so that your back brakes are not larger then your front ones, so you have matching lug patterns (though there are some 4 lug 8" rears around), and also to slow you down since you have more power. I would say all that will run you anywhere between $800-$ 2000 depending on choices you make.
Just wanted to put it in perspective so you wouldn't be surprised when you started digging into the projects.
2nd, to your question.
300HP depends on where you want the HP? 300HP at the flywheel (like modern cars are rated) is not too extreme. Engine modification will likely include a new AL head, carb, probably either really high compression or forced air of some sort. New Cam, ignition, headers would also be needed. That base package is around $3000 or so, depending on how you source the parts.
Then, however you have to factor in other things needed to accomodate that HP. If you have the generic 6 cylinder transmission (either 2.77 3 speed manual or C4 auto) you will likely have to upgrade as that much HP will likely chew it up fast (at least the 2.77, not sure on the auto side). That much HP will also eat up the stock rear end. I'm around 200 BHP on my car and that chewed my stock rear end up in a matter of months. I upgraded to a V-8 8" rear end to accomodate the power. That means new brakes in the rear as well. That will also mean you will likely want to upgrade your front brakes so that your back brakes are not larger then your front ones, so you have matching lug patterns (though there are some 4 lug 8" rears around), and also to slow you down since you have more power. I would say all that will run you anywhere between $800-$ 2000 depending on choices you make.
Just wanted to put it in perspective so you wouldn't be surprised when you started digging into the projects.
Same as any other engine, 1/2-3/4 the displacement easy and cheap. To get around 1 horse per cube cost more but if you do your research and spend the money in the right places it can be done. Past that the cost tends to grow expodintially and even with the SBC or SBF V8's it gets expensive. If you know what you are doing some sort of forced induction can help but often still requires basic upgrades to the motor. There are plenty of topics here along with the falcon performance handbook for good info.
As for starting:
-change the oil if it looks bad
-remove spark plugs (replace if they look bad) and add a few drops down each hole
-remove and plug the fuel line between the tank and pump
-crank it over till the oil pressure comes up
-reinstall the plugs
-check or replace the points (if it has em)
-turn over checking for spark (should have it)
-remove fuel feed line from pump and set up a temporary line into a fresh fuel supply
-get fire extinguisher ready and try starting it keeping an eye out for leaks especially around carb
If it does start and run well remember to have a good look at all the hoses including the brakes before a test drive. If the car has the original brake system its a single res with drums all around. The single MC means that if anything goes wrong in the system (like a hose blows) you loose all the brakes. Also if you have never driven a 4 wheel drum car do some testing in a safe place to get used to how they feel and respond especially when they get hot.
As for starting:
-change the oil if it looks bad
-remove spark plugs (replace if they look bad) and add a few drops down each hole
-remove and plug the fuel line between the tank and pump
-crank it over till the oil pressure comes up
-reinstall the plugs
-check or replace the points (if it has em)
-turn over checking for spark (should have it)
-remove fuel feed line from pump and set up a temporary line into a fresh fuel supply
-get fire extinguisher ready and try starting it keeping an eye out for leaks especially around carb
If it does start and run well remember to have a good look at all the hoses including the brakes before a test drive. If the car has the original brake system its a single res with drums all around. The single MC means that if anything goes wrong in the system (like a hose blows) you loose all the brakes. Also if you have never driven a 4 wheel drum car do some testing in a safe place to get used to how they feel and respond especially when they get hot.
A reliable, tractable, 300 flywheel horsepower would be likely to cost somewhat over $10K. It would almost certainly be EFI and forced induction; to clear some engine bay room for a turbo or blower without massive heat buildup you'd be looking at a subframe graft.
You'd be surprised how quick and competent a genuine 175HP feels.
You'd be surprised how quick and competent a genuine 175HP feels.
absolutely no connection I just couldnt think of anything I wouldnt forget till I rememberd that. I notticed it wasnt taken and I didnt think anyone would mind so I grabbed it. I believe its still there logo cause I spent lots of time doing research at there site and they still have the decals of it.
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