New tri Weber engine build.

aaAAHHhh. the good ol toilet paper tube trick ! (actually never saw it), Nuff resistance it don't slip?
Seen guy on here Mike? His trip DYI cast intake (sand, alu ingots)? At "My Budget Build"...
Just add bout 2 inches (& what U select for air) bubba
 
"...4spd..."
all set wid da webbers?
 
new thread? wait? or convert to a Build Thread? seems we're there
~HERE~
 ?
 
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#67 = an intake runner w/support?

"...long time no see...."
dont worry, we ( I ) remember U.
Time? is no matter. We had one guy herereciently die near the end of his build.
I had mine 40 yrs this Fall and am w a y off from done~
May B re-do a whole wiring harness.
Just spotted need for new windshield support/surround? Gotta ck closer~
 
LOL, but sadly the Auto Correct nowdays is just crap and I think that's probally true in most any language!
 
jaan-e said:
View attachment 10381

For thous of you who think on bigger valves, think again. Chamber overhang the bore as is..
Click to expand...
Did you consider moving the head over some..On some heads the right-side end head bolt holes are smaller and if you bore them offset or mill them over, the head can be slid over..Have to hold the head in place, maybe a couple of pins or offset bushings.
 
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Chamber overhang the bore lengthwise, hard to mill that right. Left/right vice it makes a notisable differens.
 
Do not use the gasket to lay out, it is too big, use the head only, in the location that it will be used. It can be scribed by bending a thin scribe 170 degrees..I have blended the top of the cylinder at the intake valve but no longer since going boost, too much heat to the ring...Try looking at what happens if you slide the head some to the right as if the engine was in the car and you behind the wheel...If you do notch the cylinder go easy.
 
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I have The head on the block, shifted to the right. Will make me a scriber tool, then we'l see. Thanks for Any advice. 👍
 
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