newbie needs carb and dizzy help

[H555]

we're new to this ford 200. (son and I) we've almost finished a 66 small block Barracuda that's race prepped, ground up resurrection (sat for 20 years).

I've searched but don't understand what the next level of carb and distributor switch should be. willing to spend some money on this but also know we'll tear this down and do a total rebuild. it's currently my son's daily driver. we've put on a new 1100, completely redid both lca's, ball joints, tie rod ends, FR 16:1 steering box. car's prolly got 170,000 on it but doesn't smoke and runs reasonably well. we have this intermittent miss I cannot get rid of. so I want to go to the pertronix set up but dump the loadomatic and sucky carb. what is the next step up for both? thanks

 

[fordconvert]

If you want to dump the load o you might as well go with a Duraspark. Check out the stickys at the top of this section. If you have the money the DUI is a nice clean package if you dont mind some chebby looking parts.

 

[Marine05]

I put a dui dizzy in my 200 and i couldnt dream of it running better. I've run it at the strip between 6500 and 8000 rpm and havent had a miss yet. Performs exceptionally. if u got 400 smackeroos, def go with the dui setup.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy H555 and Son:

When you described your car as a Barracuda I thought we were going to be talking slant-wise. I had to check to see if I was on the wrong forum. Done that before too.

Congrats on your ride and project. It sounds like you're on the right track.

If I were in your shoes, I'd want to nail down the intermittant miss before I made any big changes. Most likely you have a mystery vacuum leak or a slight electrical booboo. Also check for good point spring tension.

Is the miss more noticeable at an idle? Transition?? Steady town speeds or highway speeds? IF you could be more exact with the symptons it would help in offering suggestion for resolving the miss.

As Fordconvert said, chaeck out the stickys at the top of this forum. It will tell you that your stock OEM Autolite 1100 with its Spark Control Valve (SCV) works in conjunction with the Load-O-Matic distributor. If you change one, the other will not work as designed.

The Load-O-Matic system was used from 1960 - '67. It was replaced in '68. Calif Emmissions engines are an exception to this. Is yours a Calif. Emmission engine? The '68 and later Distributors are a point type, but us centrifugal advance with a conventional vacuum advance system using a ported vacuum signal from the carb. The 1st small cap DuraSpark systems appeared in the '73 model year, and were replaced by the large cap DuraSpark II systems in the '75 model year.

Any of the '68 and later ignition systems can be used with any of the one barrels that have a ported vacuum source. While the "Calif Em" 1100s and the '68 & '69 no longer have the SCV and do have a ported vacuum tape, they were downsized to be more economical and leaner.

The 1st step upgrade is to find an Autolite 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine and marry it to a '68 and later distributor with a Petronix Ignitor. This is a simple, bolt off - bolt on upgrade that maintains stock linkage, fuel lines and air cleaner and a stock appearance. Tuned properly and with a turbo type muffler, this combo will give you a nice performance upgrade.

The DS II and the HEI are a step up in performance and "set-and-forget" reliability, but move away from stock appearance and can add to the cost. They are compatible with the 1101 and any other carb with a ported vacuum source.

Some here prefer the Carter YF one barrels used on all small Ford sixes by 1970. They offer no increase in CFM ratings but may have an improved idle and transition circuit. Stock air cleaner, linkage, fuel lines are not a direct swap and must be adapted. The '70 and later carbs use a throttle cable rather then the stock type mechanical rods and levers. The farther you move away from stock the more adaptations and tuning will be needed to refine and optimize the combination.

All other carb upgrades will require either an adapter or modifications. The big two here are a Holley/Weber two stage two barrel or the wide base two barrels- a Holley 2300 or an Autolite 2100. Each has advantages and challenges.

Sorry to be sooo long, but the above IS the short answer. I hope that gets you started.

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[H555]

David - thanks for the explanation We have your book in fact. unfortunately it was buried under 2 stacks of mopar reference stuff and I just found it last night.

Autozone lists a replacement carb for the 69 250 engine as

Motorcraft Model 1100 Or Holley Model 1940.

I've already got a new model 1100 (installed by the local Ford dealership when I was in the hope they'd be better at working on this vehicle than I was at the time, not hardly...). will the Holley Model 1940 give me the equivalent of the 1101?

I do already have a distributor for a 69 200. put on a hotter coil last night, gapped the plugs to .040 (3 of the 6 had damage, flaking, on the insulators so I replaced them all with autolite 46s) and it runs much better. also got some big chunks of carbonized something out of the oil when I changed it. I'm sure this engine is real gunked up. rebuild has to wait till winter tho. then it gets the full meal deal, decked block, balanced, later model head etc. thanks all for your help. today is was sunny, the front end no longers needs to be rowed, the 2" exhaust and turbo muffler sounded good and I was 18 again... (40 years ago)..

 

[ludwig]

You don't stop being 18 again. Just your age goes up. That is the bet feeling in the world when you do something and it works even better. Good on you.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back H555:

NO!!! You have been Autozoned! The correct carb for a '69 Mustang with a 250 is an Autolite 1101. No!!! a Holley 1940 is not the equivalent of a 1101. The Holley 1940 is a generic, one-size-fits-all, replacement carb for all Autolites. They became FoMoCo's service replacement when Autolite went out of business.

Check further. The tell-tale features when comparing an 1101 to 1100s, which look very similar externally, is the size of the throttle bore at 1.69" or 1 11/16th. 1100s t-bore measures 1 7/16th. The larger T-bore is what requires the only modification in this upgrade. The carb adapter/spacer will need to be opened up at the top to allow clearance for the butterfly to open. Tapering can be done with a file or a Dremel.

If you have your '69 distributor hooked up to a manifold vacuum source that may be the cause of your spark plug damage. That combination will give your engine way too much advance at high vacuum conditions. What do you have your initial advance set at? Another sign is "peppering" or black specks on the light porcellin. It is caused by unheard knock.

Have you gone to a Petronix Ignitor yet?

You may have to run several fuel system and oil system cleaner products through to get the thing cleaned up.

Adios, David

 

[H555]

David thank you. I've searched and searched for an 1101, even Pony Carbs didn't have one listed. Can you suggest some places I can look? Haven't switched distributors yet, I know I need to have the carb and distributor advance systems work together. Reread your book last night to be better informed. also need some recommendations on oil and engine cleaners (internal). had a real bad experience 20 years ago with an Audi diesel and engine oil cleaner.

thanks again for your advice and help. We really appreciate it. and the time and thought you put into your book.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back:

I've found all of my 1101s in the recycle yard. I did hear of someone getting one through NAPA. If I were going for a rebuilt, I'd start checking with all the parts houses. Go for-warned and for-armed. Most counter men won't know as much about an 1101 as you do.

Don't be afraid to go the recycle yard and rebuild it your self. Rebuild kits are about $20 and it is an easy carb to work on. Many times rebuilts need rebuilding anyway.

On cleaners, I use a spray carb cleaner for the outside and inside. I also use a gas system cleaner that goes in the gas tank periodically. Techron is the expensive stuff. I use the cheap stuff too. You may need to replace your fuel line filter sooner if cleaning dislodges alot of gunk.

I'm old school and will admit to running a quart of kerosine or diesel for a few miles and then change oil and filter. I don't do that anymore. A quart of Rislone or other commercial, high detergent cleaners are safer and probably better. Follow the maker's directions. Most modern commercial oils are high detergent these days so once it is flushed, fresh quality oil and a good filter will keep it clean.

Next time you have the valve cover off, start it up and watch how long it takes for oil to get to the front rocker. On startup you will notice oil oozing out of each rocker arm. It will start at the back and should quickly move to the front. If oil is not oozing out of the front rockers within a few seconds you may need to remove, dissassemble and clean the rocker arm shaft and the holes in each rocker arm. It is not unusual for an engine that has been sitting and not maintained to have the shaft plugged, partially or completely. Once it is plugged no cleaner will unplug it.

Another option on carbs would be a Carter RBS from 70's 250 engines. The downside of this carb is that it is linked with a cable system, would require slight fuel line adapting and it's air cleaner. The plus is that they are easier to find.

If you're looking at a Pony Carb. Check out their 1100 1-V High Performance Carb. It uses the plastic venturi insert from an 1101. Be sure to specify it is for a '69 200 with no SCV. THe plus is that these carbs are modified 1100 so no tapering of the T-bore is needed. The downside is $$$$$$.

Adios, David

 

[Bort62]

I've had nothing but success with letting the engine idle for 10 minutes w/ 2 quarts oil 3 quarts diesel periodically.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey H555,
You mentioned chunks of carbon in the oil. I had the same thing, turned out the valve stem seals had turned hard almost like to plastic. Then they broke into many pieces. I found them in the oil. I found more pieces laying on top of the head. I had little or no smoke, but kept oil fouling plugs. You might want to pull off the valve cover. At the same time pull the rocker arm shaft, and go through the proceedure "rocker arm shaft oiling hints" a Sticky at the top of this page.
Good luck! Lowell