Newbie with a Question

[Anonymous]

First off let me just say there is enough information on this site that my head is spinning.

I currently have a 1965 Mustang Convertible with a I6 200 that runs well, however need some TLC in the form of a rebuild. I have recently got my hands on a 1968 I6 that from what I am told was "Fresh" before it was taken out of the car. So here are my list of questions

1. Should I rebuild the original engine and forget about the '68
2. If I go with the '68 are there any benifits and should I rebuild it even though the P/O said it was "Fresh"

Thanks in advace for any help.

 

[barishiman]

Welcome to the forums! As far as I know, the 68 200 is a later revision and you should be able to get more power out of it. I would check the engine over and get the head inspected. See if the head has hardened valve seats or not. In my opinion, I would look at the 68 200, and if all is good use that.


Andrew

 

[Anonymous]

Yea, I'd look it over carefully and well after reading here and the related sites at FOrdSix shop, then u can find info and parts for increasing performance more.

The 65 200 I recieved as a gift was said to be rebuilt, as I became curious of it, I wanted to know if it had 7 main caps, so I took the oil pan off, it does but I saw how crappy a job that person, whoever, did.

They dint clean anything, I guess jus put in new bearings, new pistons, one of which was an odd one tho, dint clean rods, dint clean oil pan, dint clean the oil pickup, it was still clogged w\ oil gook.
The valvtrain wasnt cleant, all same old parts, same ol cam, dint clean the valve cover, loox like same old water pump, they dint even put anything on the threads of the water fittings, I had to crack a socket and ruin the fittings to get them out, I mean metal to metal rusts w\ out protection.

So its important to look it over real well. I still havent found a water pump pulley for it yet either : /
The 200 that came out of my car a few yrs ago was a 68, tho my car was a 67 and well, as I could KICK myself, it had become a rust-rock now : \

 

[addo]

Unfortunately, Alex's experiences are common enough. For the small price of a couple of gaskets you can be extra sure of what shape the motor's really in. Beats putting it in and then finding it's a dud, or needs some simple work best performed out of the car.

So, drain any oil, pull the head, measure bore and deck height, inspect the cylinders, measure piston dishes, measure the valve sizes, look for hardened seats, check the valve stem seals, cc the chambers and look for wear on the rocker shaft.

Then, flip the block and pull the sump off. Check your bearing clearances (plastigage) and crank endplay. Wobble the balancer pulley to determine degrees of slack in the timing chain. It's unlikely the lifters will fall out, but be ready for this.

Now come back to the site, search the archives, post questions; meet us halfway. Your afternoon's investment of time plus $25 in gaskets will ensure that your knowledge is more than doubled, and you can define the best way to outlay any money you choose to spend on the car.

Regards, Adam.

 

[rbohm]

8) unless the po was someone i trusted, i would check the motor out before i used it. be reasonably thorough like addo said.

 

[CobraSix]

I bought a 68 motor that was supposedly rebuilt 2-3 years ago. being that my existing engine (not original) was burning a quart of oil every 500 miles, anything was going to be better.

I still tore the 68 block down and did a number of inspections along with replacing some standard items (oil pump, fuel pump, water pump, T-stat, Freeze plugs).

The cylinders looked a little to smooth, but as of yet, I've not burned any oil, only leaking some from the oil pan...(sorry about the oil stain in the driveway Al).

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the opinions....I think I will go with an overhaul.

Its sounds as though the 65 engine vs. 68 engine can go either way so I think I might just keep the original engine and rebuild.

I will let everyone know what direction I go in.....it looks as though I will have an extra I6 and 3 speed manual trans in the future. 8)

 

[CobraSix]

So long as your 200 has 7 main bearings (some early 200s only had 4 IIRC) you should be good to go. There are no real benefits to going with the 68 block. I only switched because it was cheaper then a rebuild.

I only paid like $50 for the entire engine (including head, carb, exhaust manifold).

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

One more quick question...If I go with some of the suggested mod's that I seen on this web site bore, decking, etc....Do I have to go with 5 lug or can I stay with the original 4 lug?

Thanks again.