Newer or older block?

[Ronbo]

My engine shoots oil out the dipstick tube, huffs blue smoke out the valve cover and yet blows no blue smoke out the exhaust. Compression test reveals problems with two cylinders and I'm not taking any chances, time for a new engine! Would it be better to start with a newer long block (newer head=bigger valves/log) or just rip down the one I have for rebuild? I'm thinking the newer block and head is the way to go.


Ron

 

[addo]

I'd pick up a 250. It'll fit better in the engine bay than an earlier Mustang. Same rebuild costs as the 200, gives more stick in return.

Also by advocating this you are guaranteed a counter-post by X, saying how you should build up another 200.

In a fantasy world, the motor Fast3006 has in his Stang, would do nicely. ²

 

[rbohm]

8) i am with addo on this one, my falcon is getting a 250. more torque, better power curve, makes for a nice street motor.

 

[CobraSix]

Ron,

Look at prices of rebuilding versus long block. I know up here in Mass, it is about $400 cheaper to buy a long block then to get my existing block rebuilt. in GA that may be different. Or you can look around on ebay, I picked up a rebuild 200 with 5k miles on it for $100, all I had to do was drive 5 hours to go get it. Guy wanted to put a V-8 in his mustang.

As far as 200 vs 250. In a 68, I'd go 250 as there is enough room in there not to cause problems.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

And yet another opinion.....

I'd have your original block checked to see if it can be overbored safely, then stay with that block and get a 78 or newer head!

As far as the 250 goes, Up around my area they are rare! In fact , in all my junkyard scrounging, I have never seen one with my own two eyes!

Later,

Doug

 

[Ronbo]

Guys,
All opinions are welcome! I've gone through several combos in my head and I guess what it is going to come down to is whatever lands in my lap first. I started with the 250 but then I would be scrounging parts and like Doug said, they are rare in these parts.
The long block is the way to go so should I start with a newer block and head combo? It will give me the newer head but I don't know anything about the internals of the newer blocks. I imagine compression will be lower, retarded valve timing, and...???? :roll: Change the timing gear-set, throw in a cam, direct mount a holley, and burn rubber? 8)
The condition of the current block is questionable. I know its bored .030 over (stamped on the piston head) and if I remember correctly it is eroded away on the deck around one of the water passages. I'm currently in transition out of the Army so I want to wrap this up before I start working again because I know it will just sit until it rots if I don't.

Ron

 

[Anonymous]

Ummmm....guys, his sig says he has a 300

Swapping to a 250 would be a huge PITA....I think he posted in this forum (small block) by accident....

 

[t-west]

This isn't for his 68?

 

[Anonymous]

This isn't for his 68?

ooops, mis read his sig, didn't see it must be -> 8)

Doesn't say what engine is in the 68

 

[Anonymous]

I say pull the 300 from the bronco, build it for about 450 hp and then drop it in the stang. Then have fun buying new tires after all the burnouts.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

well the only problem I see with a 250 is having to change the trans stuff and all ....and motor mounts? having to get a new bell and starter can really add up quickly

 

[Ronbo]

Wellll...I do want to drive the car before I die so the 300 swap is out The 250 may be doable I just need to do some research, make a parts list, and then see what I can find. Most folks have done the swap on 66 and earlier cars, I don't recall anyone doing it to the 67-68 model. I wonder if the mounts from a 69 would work in the 68? Guess that would require finding a 69 and measuring the distance between frame rails. The saga continues! 8)