No Oil Pressure / YT Full Roller Rockers

14-15 ft/lbs Here is what I came up with, some have no groves, some have two groves on one side, and some have two groves on both sides, I cannot with what I have, to prove for sure how the factory had the one side grove plate go. So the safest is to make groves on both sides like the C8 that I just looked at. If you can see which side the bolt rub marks are on let us know.
 
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Okay, my error: I bought a new thrust plate from V.I. and it has grooves on both sides. I shoulda looked before posting. Thanks for the torque #s. I will still examine the wear marks.

Of course, I am scared spitless that I will mess up my cam install. There are a couple of videos out there. And as long as I don't drop it or scratch the camshaft bears, I should be okay. 1. Do we add assembly lube to the back of the thrust plate, and lube the ring? 2. Also, just to verify, from schaferstephen and Roy P photos it looks like the ring bevel goes toward the engine. I see the flat ring side (can't see a bevel from the photos). Bevel goes inside? 3. Should I buy new thrust plate bolts?

Appreciate all the advice and help.
 
1. Put ass. lube that you use on the bearings not the moly paste ''It could clog up the oil groves'' light to the retainer plate only where you see where the cam and sprocket rubs, look at old one, It would not hurt to the oil the parts and wipe off good for rust prevention . Spacer does not turn when the cam bolt is torqued down and should not. 2. Yes, Install spacer with the bevel toward the cam journal. 3. That is up to you, I do not unless they are damaged and do not pull up to torque right.
 
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The rods can get in the way of pulling the cam, may have to turn crank some. When installing cam look to see what is best first. Use head bolt screwed into the cam or better yet one longer and use it as a handle.
 
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If possible, still would like to know which way your old retaining plate was installed at the factory.
Thank you.
 
Remember to torque the cam bolt to 42-45 ft/lbs, would not hurt to use med strength loc- tite below 5000rpm and high strength over.
 
Right. I need to locate my old retaining plate. And I need to find the bolts! Which cam bolt do you mean?
 
I found the 1983 200lm retaining/thrust plate. Here are some pics showing wear - or in my opinion, lack of wear. But y'all see for yourselves: First side:

Bronco 1983 200lm retaining thrust plate camshaft 3.JPG

Other side (facing out to gear I think):

Bronco 1983 200lm retaining thrust plate camshaft 2.JPG

Inside close up:

Bronco 1983 200lm retaining thrust plate camshaft 1 IMG_7233.JPG

I don't see any wear.

Thanks for the cam bolt clarification. I found it. Also I found my thrust plate bolts. It's been a year since I tore down the 1983 200lm engine. I tore down a 1974 at right before the '83 - only to find two cracks in the block. I tried to label everything and still I didn't do enough detail. But I'll figure it out. Fortunately I can harvest off the '74 engine for misc. bolts and bolt ons, fuel pump, oil pump.

Next up is figuring out the camshaft pin. First, do I try to pry/knock out the old pin and reuse it, or find a new one? And then what about the two keyways? I should just go find them at the hardware store I suppose.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
While I am posting, I thought I'd add a photo of what Vintage Inlines sends out with its double roller timing chain and gears. No bolts or keyways, but I am very happy the cam gear is labeled so clearly... 2 degrees, 4 degrees etc.

Bronco 1983 200lm timing chain gears, thrust plate camshaft ring.JPG
 
Thank you for checking the plate, I was hoping that it was a one side grooved plate so I could get a better idea of what ford was doing. The old plate looks good. Do not use the oil slinger with the double roller chain if you have one.
The best way to get the pin out is to drill a hole carefully from the opposite side and punch it out. There is only one keyway, and it should be stuck in the crank. I would not use hardware keys. You must degree these cams, do not trust that it will be ok.
 
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Excellent. Yes, I got the cam pin out with just a little effort and needle nosed vise grips. Came right out. Ok - no hardware store keyways. I think the machine shop has my old cam. I'll have go look and see if they have the keyway.

There wasn't a slinger. I read somewhere in the archives ?? that Ford stopped using them at some point.

Degreeing the cam: Yep it's coming. I have watched Roy P's video a bunch of times:


I am still uncertain about what's actually going on in the video. I'll get it figured out.

Thanks again drag-200stang. Most of what I need is confidence that I am not doing something stupid that will destroy my expensive rebuild.
 
Okay this newbie is getting educated. First, the keyway is in the crankshaft. The cam pin is the "keyway" for the cam gear. Use assembly lube on the cam lobes. Use Moly Assembly Lube Paste on the cam journals. (True?) Then, use CRC Dry Moly Lube on the flat end of the lifters. (True?)
 
Hi, in the old days before assembly lube we used white lithium grease on the bearings and cam and many contact surfaces. If you lube the cam I would soak the lifters in a coffee can and drop them in. I am more curious about degreeing the cam. I wish I had a picture of the crank sprocket when I got my cam dialed in. Good luck
 
I will be asking many questions when I come to degreeing the cam. I get the purpose and I get the basics. I have heard two different comments on whether or not or when to preload the lifters - if that's what you're referring to B Ron Co. Is there a stage when you want the lifters dry? Like degreeing the cam? I suppose it would make sense to soak the lifters in oil once the head goes on and I am ready to finally install the pushrods. I have new hydraulic lifters, new push rods, and new RAU 1.6 adjustable rocker.
 
Dr_Dan_WWW said:
Okay this newbie is getting educated. First, the keyway is in the crankshaft. The cam pin is the "keyway" for the cam gear. Use assembly lube on the cam lobes. Use Moly Assembly Lube Paste on the cam journals. (True?) Then, use CRC Dry Moly Lube on the flat end of the lifters.
Click to expand...
After cam degreeing I use cam break-in moly paste on the cam lobes, and pushrod ends, not too sure about the CRC dry moly, Just use oil on the lobes and lifter to degree cam. Use engine assembly lube not grease, on all other surfaces but use oil on lifter bores. Remember to degree the cam and check the damper timing marks before you put on the head. Piston and rings get light oil. Not sure what all you are doing.
 
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