Noob questions.

[Anonymous]

Hey, i'm the resident idiot here so if you like being taxed by thought provoking questions this probably isn't the thread for you..

I've got an aussie 76 Falcon XC running the 4.1 with a few modifications and a completely screwed suspension system, no power steering and i don't want it mainly because it will cost too much as i'd need to do the gearbox as well and it seems as though the standard powersteering increases turning circle for some reason.

It passed on 4 points of a Pedders 28 point test.

So i plan to re-build the suspension system, here is my plan:

XD parts up front, except for lowered and stiffer springs, with aftermarket bushes (don't know enough to choose which as yet)

Aftermarket shocks.

Urethane bushes down the back.



This seems to me to be a somewhat economical plan that'll make a better driving car without losing too much comfort for my sissy friends.

Basically i wanted to ask what you all thought of this plan and if you have any advice for brand of springs/bushes/shocks. Also is there some magic part that i should get aftermarket and not from the XD to make the car fly just like a plane?

Thanks, Tom.

 

[addo]

What I might do, is move this to the Oz forum. It'll save all the "What's an XC" questions.

 

[xdee]

Also is there some magic part that i should get aftermarket and not from the XD to make the car fly just like a plane?

Thanks, Tom.

2 words- alloy head II - ok 2 words and 1 number


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[Anonymous]

Already on it 8)

That plan is XF alloy EFI head, picking it up soon. Gonna block off the EFI holes and get steel valve seats.
Concerning that, will i need new inlet and extractors? Also will my 350 holley still fit? It had better!!!!

 

[addo]

What's the Pedder's test? How much money you have?

Expect to need new shackles with the rear bushes. The rubber tends to hold a little water and corrode the metal pin. What city are you in?

You can guess the rear ride height a bit more accurately by using lowering blocks at first. Once you're happy and it's bedded in, get the springs re-set and sell the blocks.

For the front, if you buy a spring compressor for about $110 (maybe cheaper) you can pop the coils in and out as many times as you please while adjusting to the preferred height. The important thing here, is to note ride height changes plus how much is cut. Both bits of info are needed.

Set your suspension heights with no shocks in the car. Shocks aren't there to prop it up and you want to discard their influence. Also, while a car sits the plunger shafts tend to corrode...

Get XF Falcon spindles for the front and use rubber for the radius rod bushes. You can get these bushes from Rare Spares quite cheaply. If the lower arms are worn in both ball joints and bushings, new arms can be bought from the US for $50 each, complete and ready to use. Even with postage, you'll come out ahead.

Scour the wreckers and people here for a front sway bar. You'll probably get a decent one for $80 or less. Use urethane on the saddle bushes (with new saddles to suit) but buy a rubber link kit. Again, look overseas - the whole bolt, bushings etc are about $6 each.

Should be able to squeeze in a good used pair of XF upper arms and in conjunction with your customised springs and new urethane spring saddles, you're almost done.

Final step is a genuine Ford Pitman arm and a composite idler arm (one rubber, one poly bush). New tie rod ends as needed, brake lines ditto.

The whole lot shouldn't break the bank and can be done in stages.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[xdee]

Already on it 8)

That plan is XF alloy EFI head, picking it up soon. Gonna block off the EFI holes and get steel valve seats.
Concerning that, will i need new inlet and extractors? Also will my 350 holley still fit? It had better!!!!

If you have multifit extractors (the ones with both iron and alloy head bolt patterns), they will go straight on.
You don't need to block of the efi holes, the alloy head II carb-intake will cover the ports.
It's an alloy head- they already have steel seats.
The holley will fit the AH II inlet with mods, but you are better off using a Holley, John Cain, or Redline manifold if it's grunt you want.
One other thing is if you put an alloy head on an iron head block, you won't be able to use the head locaters unless you have the block machined to suit. The advantage on the other hand (IMO) is you will have a rope type rear main instead of the later one piece neoprene oil leaker.


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