O No!

[Anonymous]

I have a problem fellas. My 1982 Ford Granada 3.3l was burning rich and everyone told me to rebuild it. My teacher told me, dad, uncles etc..... So I went out and bought a rebuild kit and did. I rebuilt it and took my time. Everything was back together. i made sure floats where good jets where clean everything seemed ship shape. I put it on the car today and started it up just to find that it ran ******er with the rebuilt carb. It was still burning rich. But with the rebuilt carb i could hear a hissing. I dont recall hearing this before I rebuilt the carb. Is that normal? When my dad opend the choke it ran better when he let go it ran horrible. ?? The carb is a single bore holley. and I cant find any adjustments accept idle and the two bigger adjustments on the throttle. I timed the car with the regular un rebuilt carb. If I did fix the carb and its timed with the un rebuilt carb would that make a difference? should i retime it again? Hitting the gas was the only way to keep it running without it stalling. Any suggestions or help is very much apperciated. I have contacted this forum before aboutmy carb and came up empty handed. hopefully Ill get something this time. Thanx guys. Kev

 

[Asa]

when your dad opened the choke it ran better? i don't know this particular carb, so i don't know if it is electric, or manual choke, i'd think electric, anyways, see if you can adjust the choke so that it is open most of the time, it should only be closed when the engine is cold, if that works, then you can start from there
a few other things:
the hissing sounds could be a vacuum leak, check and make sure everything is nice and tight, did you clean all the gasket surfaces off when you rebuilt the carb?
how did you time the engine? the correct procedure goes something like this:
to check timing you need to get a timing light, loosen the dist. so that you can twist the cap clockwise, or counter-clockwise, crank the engine so that the #1 cyl is at TDC (you might need to do this by hand), make a mark on the harmonic balancer at 0 degrees with something you'll be able to see (white-out works well), then hook the clip of the timing light to the #1 plug wire and try to crank the engine, you should be able to see the mark somewhere close to the degree indicator, from there rotate the cap till it is set correctly (if that sounds confusing then check the instructions that come with the light, or in a manual for more clarification)

as for no one answering you last time, sorry 'bout that, it happens every now and then, but we try to make up for it
good luck!
evan

 

[goinbroke2]

Hold the choke wide open and start it up. While idling, look in the carb. If fuel is dribbling out of the booster either the float level is too high or possibly the power valve is blown. Personally I would hold open the choke and increase rpm and see if it cleans out. If it does smooth out at a higher rpm recheck float level.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Did your rebuild include a new float? The plastic floats become porous, and soak fuel, thereby getting heavier. If you haven't replaced the float, find a brass float for it.

 

[Anonymous]

do u know the carbureator id # but it sounds like it is a climate choke where it take the tempure of the exhaust to open and close it. YOu it sounds like a vacume leak or the line that runs from the exhaust manifold to the carbureator choke is leaking. Let me know if u got the carb id # i can post a pic of it probly and we maybe able to help you out more. Hope you get running soon and happy motoring.


adam

 

[Anonymous]

It didnt come with a new float. It didnt feel heavy nor could i hear fluid in it. Im going to try to pin point the hissing sound. I did make sure that all the old gasket was removed. I couldnt find any Id #'s. I wrote every number down on a piece of paper and my autoparts store told me that the carb was a re-manufatured carb. There was a gold sticker on it that said ford RM-8. what would the carb id number look like? I really appercaite it all this help guys. I can take a picture of this particular carb if ud like. O yea, I did do the timing procedure correct. And the choke does open once engine is warm. thnx Kev

 

[Asa]

once the choke is open, does the engine run fine? if so, maybe you just need to adjust the choke a lil......
keep the info coming, give us all the numbers you wrote down, on my carb, the ID # was on a lil aluminum tab held on by one of the screws...
good luck
evan

 

[Anonymous]

The hissing sound is no vacum hose its coming from inside the carb. Here are the numbers.

Gold sticker said Authorized Remanufatured Ford Parts RM-8

Then there where these on the back clearly visible nad fairly large.
9771
1372

Then there where these number in a circle like so
6R-6456-B A2

The choke is non adjustable also.

 

[Anonymous]

here are some pics of the carb. Good news. I let the car run and was removing vacum hoses and reconnecting them and it statrted running better. and the hissing is not loud at all. it started to run like it used to with the un rebuilt carb. Now i know for a fact that the car is out of time. The car is also burning rich still. what i need to kno is does an untimed car affect if its burning rich? If I time the engine will the burning rich stop or even decrease al little.? I apperciate the help guys.
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/36379/8.jpg

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/36379/9.jpg

 

[Anonymous]

you`r pics didn`t come through

 

[Anonymous]

I think they may be down for awhile..they should be up within an hour

 

[Anonymous]

I saw the pics jus fine now, altho I cant tell much from lookin at em. I guess all I could say would be to carefully recheck even little things, like fuel filter(s), condition of fuel pump, things binding, proper routing of hoses, other related components.

I dont know much bout carbs, sorry. I'm assuming your car has emission components, I'd check those things too. I had an 85 century, it had a carb w\ emissions, it suckt. Had wires and hoses coming out of it everywhere.

I'm not sure of many things on a carb engine that would cause rich mixture other than the rich/lean screws out of adjusment ? Too large jets ?

As for timing, that is, ignition, not mechanical, alters when the spark is delivered at a given point during engine cycles, yes ? So I dont think that will have an affect on being rich/lean. Being rich/ lean is, too much fuel or too little being delivered per combustion cycle. Then again, maybe I jus don know what I'm talkin bout lol. Sorry I know its a serious thing, jus my relentless humoric side. I hope somebody can help ya get it fixt.

 

[JT81stang]

The carb. that you have is a Holley Model #1945.
There are two Holley carbs used in the early 80's for the six.
There is the one barrel model #1946 and the one barrel #1945.
Very similar in design.

Both carb's use regular Holley jets.
First, did you see what size jet was in it?
Usually those carbs came with either a 64, 65 or the biggest I've seen in one is a 66 jet. (Which is the one I have in my Holley one barrel in my 1980 Capri.)

Using a 66 jet will make it run a little rich but nothing drastic.

You say hitting the gas was the only way to make it run? I think you need to set up your idle mixture.
The idle mixture screw is located on the passenger side of the carb down on the base of the carb where the hole is for the mounting stud to pass thru. It's just to the left of the stud.
That particular screw is countersunk inside the base and the top of it has a hexhead pattern so an allen key will turn it. Some times the factory will put a plug over the hole so you can't mess with it, but that plug can be removed easily. On your second picture you posted you can see the bore where the mixture screw is located but because of the angle of the picture I can not see the screw itself.

When you find the screw, you can check your idle mixture by using a vacuum gauge.
Just plug in the gauge to a manifold vacuum source and turn the idle mixture screw untill you get the highest reading on the gauge with the motor idling and up to normal tempurature.
Typical readings on the gauge should be anywhere from 17 to 21 inches of vacuum.
Make sure you idle speed is what the underhood sticker calls for (about 900 rpm for automatic transmission cars) when you do the test.

Hope this helps

John

 

[MustangSix]

If this is the stock carb on a stock motor, don't start messing with the jets. The factory got is pretty much right the first time. If anything, it's designed to run a bit leaner than you might like for optimum full power.

Go back, pull the carb, and check it again.

Usually, Rich = bad choke adjustment, bad float level, bad needle and seat, bad power valve (if equipped), clogged air filter, or improper assembly when rebuilt.

Sometimes Rich = bad timing, bad plugs, bad wires, wrong plug gap, i.e. a faulty or weak ignition cannot fire the mixture and it acts like it's running rich.

 

[Anonymous]

The Jet is still fatcory. There was only one. I did put a new power valve assembly in. Im not sure if you guys are familier with this but..emmsions pump. Is this the emisssions pump? I heard of people saying they just remove them and the car runs better. Well I disconnected the hose that connects to it and it did infact run better. The engine ran better....It didnt burn as rich..and my backfire problem seized. GREAT! I was happy. I also had more pic up. I know messing with emmsions is tampering with the law but according to law I ahve an antique car. which makes this leagal right?
Anyway...If it is illeagle no need to tell me or remind me. I need to know if i can remove this without hurting the car. here are the pics of it. There was also a yellow sticker that states : "Let break in period 500 miles before removal" right on the pump. This meens I can remove it? What do you guys think. By the way. You guys tremendously helped me out......very much apperciated.

 

[Anonymous]

I timed it and set my idle mixture! Thanks jturcic!!!! It runs smooth unless i reconnect the emissions control. What do you guys think? leave hose disconnected? just remove the pump? the pump is now just spinning freely no hoses are attatched to it. Thnx for the help

 

[Anonymous]

take off the belt that go`s to it there and you`ll get a nother hp or two and better gas mi. isn`t much sence in taking off the pump itself unless you want to clean up the engin bay

 

[Anonymous]

Thnx Mav. I im just going remove it. Doesnt look to difficult to do. What about the hose that connects to it? Can I remove them as well as they arent being used?

 

[Anonymous]

yes you can thats what I did ,don`t take off the hose that go`s to the manifold just put a socket in it , fill the socket with sillicone and clamp it on there

 

[Anonymous]

If it isnt too much to ask, could I get a pic of your engine compartment?