Junk-Falcon
Well-known member
i would
Oil Light On in Sharp Turn
- Thread starter Fairlane Fixer
- Start date
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
With it being a '68 7-bolt main engine, would it be unlikely
the mains are loose?
the mains are loose?
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
Yeah I know, But would that cause oil not to go up to
rocker shaft?
Where is the sending unit located in series with the oiling
cycle?
1. Pump
2. Filter
3. Oil gallery to cam, main, brgs. etc.
4. From #4 cam bearing passage through block to rockers.
5. Through rocker assembly
6. Drains to pan
I have oil flow out the sending unit hole.
rocker shaft?
Where is the sending unit located in series with the oiling
cycle?
1. Pump
2. Filter
3. Oil gallery to cam, main, brgs. etc.
4. From #4 cam bearing passage through block to rockers.
5. Through rocker assembly
6. Drains to pan
I have oil flow out the sending unit hole.
Junk-Falcon
Well-known member
ppp
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
10-4
I'll check it out.
If no psi I'll need to rebuild.
Are these sixes easy to rebuild?
I'm fairly mechanically inclined.
Any tips from anyone, and I'll quit making this
such a long topic.
Many thanks to all.
I'll check it out.
If no psi I'll need to rebuild.
Are these sixes easy to rebuild?
I'm fairly mechanically inclined.
Any tips from anyone, and I'll quit making this
such a long topic.
Many thanks to all.
oil POURS out the sender hole? I think it should maybe be a lot more forceful than that. like it should hose down the inner fender with half a quart in 2 seconds.
According to my shop manual (I left out lots of details that didn't seem to apply to your situation):
1. Oil is picked up by oil pump through oil pan sump. A spring loaded relief valve in the pump limits the maximum system oil pressure.
2. Oil is pumped through filter,which has a bypass valve in case it gets clogged, and an anti-drainback valve to keep oil from flowing backwards into pan when engine is off.
3. From the filter, oil is pumped into the main oil gallery that runs the length of the block. Oil is pumped through the oil gallery to the main bearings, then to the camshaft bearings. Oil from the main gallery also directly feeds the hydraulic valve lifters.
4. Oil under reduced pressure is fed to the valve rocker arm assembly through a drilled passage in the cylinder block at the #4 camshaft bearing. The oil is metered by a groove in the camshaft journal. The passage in the block matches up with a slot/hole in the cylinder head (the head bolt hole at the left rear of the head)
5. The oil passage in the cylinder head is drilled from the cylinder head bolt bore to the number 6 valve rocker arm shaft support. The rocker arm shaft supports have square holes so the oil can pass by the round bolts to reach the rocker arms, shafts, and valves.
6. Oil from the rocker arms drains down the pushrods/holes and into the pushrod chamber and openings that lead back down through the block to the pan...
Since the oil pressure sender is near the back and at the midline of the block, I think it is measuring pressure in at the rear of the main oil gallery. I could be wrong though, it could be measuring pressure after it has passed through the metering groove in the camshaft and is on it's way to the top end. Either way, I think this gives you some other ideas where to check for oil pressure at. You could pull the left rear headbolt and see if oil comes out of the hole when you run it for a minute. Since I think the oil pressure gauge is measuring at the main oil gallery, I think you have some wide tolerances somewhere in the lower end that are leaking so much oil that there is no pressure left to drive things to the top, but it sounds like a cam that has broken in half would also cause upper end oiling problems (if the engine would even still run).
1. Oil is picked up by oil pump through oil pan sump. A spring loaded relief valve in the pump limits the maximum system oil pressure.
2. Oil is pumped through filter,which has a bypass valve in case it gets clogged, and an anti-drainback valve to keep oil from flowing backwards into pan when engine is off.
3. From the filter, oil is pumped into the main oil gallery that runs the length of the block. Oil is pumped through the oil gallery to the main bearings, then to the camshaft bearings. Oil from the main gallery also directly feeds the hydraulic valve lifters.
4. Oil under reduced pressure is fed to the valve rocker arm assembly through a drilled passage in the cylinder block at the #4 camshaft bearing. The oil is metered by a groove in the camshaft journal. The passage in the block matches up with a slot/hole in the cylinder head (the head bolt hole at the left rear of the head)
5. The oil passage in the cylinder head is drilled from the cylinder head bolt bore to the number 6 valve rocker arm shaft support. The rocker arm shaft supports have square holes so the oil can pass by the round bolts to reach the rocker arms, shafts, and valves.
6. Oil from the rocker arms drains down the pushrods/holes and into the pushrod chamber and openings that lead back down through the block to the pan...
Since the oil pressure sender is near the back and at the midline of the block, I think it is measuring pressure in at the rear of the main oil gallery. I could be wrong though, it could be measuring pressure after it has passed through the metering groove in the camshaft and is on it's way to the top end. Either way, I think this gives you some other ideas where to check for oil pressure at. You could pull the left rear headbolt and see if oil comes out of the hole when you run it for a minute. Since I think the oil pressure gauge is measuring at the main oil gallery, I think you have some wide tolerances somewhere in the lower end that are leaking so much oil that there is no pressure left to drive things to the top, but it sounds like a cam that has broken in half would also cause upper end oiling problems (if the engine would even still run).
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
Could have spun a cam bearing on #4, block the oil hole
I'm going to flush to try to remove sludge.
I guess it's worth a try. (Wishfull thinking)
Then I'll take it from there.
I'm going to flush to try to remove sludge.
I guess it's worth a try. (Wishfull thinking)
Then I'll take it from there.
You won't be likely to have spun a cam bearing there. It's easier to check for the broken camshaft Scott suggested by cranking the motor with the valve cover off. Yes, I too believe the pressure sender is off the main gallery.
What about pump wear? Gauge your pounds with a mechanical rig and then choose a remedy. You can linish the gear cover to reclaim it - how's that for rough and dirty?
What about pump wear? Gauge your pounds with a mechanical rig and then choose a remedy. You can linish the gear cover to reclaim it - how's that for rough and dirty?
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
All valves work, push rods spinning ok.
I don't think it's a broken cam.
Just put a new pump on 2 days ago.
I don't think it's a broken cam.
Just put a new pump on 2 days ago.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Install a $10(ok maybe $15) mechanical oil pressure gauge (wouldn't have an older car without 1 anyways) and find out what the true story is.
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
Hooked up gauge and "0" oil pressure.
Going to let it run for a few with a qt.
of that Mytery Oil stuff just for kicks
and see if anything good happens
What would be my next step?
Noise sounds like valves and lifters.
Nothing at bottom end.
Going to let it run for a few with a qt.
of that Mytery Oil stuff just for kicks
and see if anything good happens
What would be my next step?
Noise sounds like valves and lifters.
Nothing at bottom end.
Junk-Falcon
Well-known member
ppp
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
Oil pump is new.
Light just gradually started flickering.
Within a couple of days. It stayed on.
Light just gradually started flickering.
Within a couple of days. It stayed on.
Fairlane Fixer
Well-known member
I noticed when I rev it up, it makes knocking sound like
somethings loose.
Idle is OK.
Found a master kit with rings, rod bearings, Crank bearings, all
gaslets at NAPA for $199.00
somethings loose.
Idle is OK.
Found a master kit with rings, rod bearings, Crank bearings, all
gaslets at NAPA for $199.00
Mechanical gauge was working OK - doesn't need pre-bleeding or anything? To get next to nothing on the gauge suggests a "haemorrhage" somewhere, not clearance issues.
Yes, you possibly do need to tear into the motor now - but try to find the problem before replacing stuff. Last things to check are oil pressure at filter connnection (use a sandwich type adaptor as for inline oil filters) and then pick-up tube/connection to pump.
Regards, Adam.
Yes, you possibly do need to tear into the motor now - but try to find the problem before replacing stuff. Last things to check are oil pressure at filter connnection (use a sandwich type adaptor as for inline oil filters) and then pick-up tube/connection to pump.
Regards, Adam.
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