All Small Six Oil pan modifications

[78_200_C4]

I have a related question. Mine starves oil upon hard cornering or abrupt stops, so much so the oil light comes on. It is to the full mark. Is this normal ? Sounds like you should consider baffle in the design

I had that problem until I started running Rotella 15-40. Thinner oil on hot summer days is not a good idea.

 

[Drummadude]

You do not need to take off the head to change the seals. but to clean out the oil galley drain back holes you do .
But wait!!!! your engine is out of the car with the pan off. Check the three oil drain back holes along the cam, use a light and see if there is any junk, probe around with a piece of wire and vacuum out, maybe blow air from the top, you get the idea.

Ok, I am perplexed on the location of the oil galleys. I don't seem to find anything on a Google search. I'd like to check them this weekend.

 

[DON]

It is refereing to the area around the top side of the lifters, the push rods go thru this area. There are holes at the bottom of this area that go to the crankcase

 

[drag-200stang]

Ok, I am perplexed on the location of the oil galleys. I don't seem to find anything on a Google search. I'd like to check them this weekend.

That is my mistake, I meant to say lifter galley oil drain back holes not oil galley.
Looking from the pan side, the three oil drain back holes are located along where the cam is. One is by the dist. one is near the middle and one closer to the rear that is the biggest hole.

 

[Drummadude]

That is my mistake, I meant to say lifter galley oil drain back holes not oil galley.
Looking from the pan side, the three oil drain back holes are located along where the cam is. One is by the dist. one is near the middle and one closer to the rear that is the biggest hole.

I found the large one in the rear, but I only see a small vertical hole by the distributor shaft at the cam. Not sure if that is one. I don't see one in the middle.

 

[Frank]

I found the large one in the rear, but I only see a small vertical hole by the distributor shaft at the cam. Not sure if that is one. I don't see one in the middle.

Shine a light down from the head side through the holes. This will show where they are and can see if they're gummed up.

 

[Drummadude]

Anything special I need to know about removing the oil pump?

 

[Drummadude]

I

That is my mistake, I meant to say lifter galley oil drain back holes not oil galley.
Looking from the pan side, the three oil drain back holes are located along where the cam is. One is by the dist. one is near the middle and one closer to the rear that is the biggest hole.

I found all three and was able to get a wire through with no issues, so they are good. Is there anything special to know about removing the oil pump?

 

[DON]

Nope, two bolts and off it comes. It does have a gasket and dowel so it needs a little persuasion

 

[drag-200stang]

Like Don said but no gasket on the pump to block from the factory but there is one on the pick up to pump. Twist the pump some right and left and pull straight up. Make sure that you know where the oil pump to dist. drive shaft is.

 

[DON]

My bad. I know there was a gasket on the pump, just forgot it was on the pickup side

 

[Drummadude]

Like Don said but no gasket on the pump to block from the factory but there is one on the pick up to pump. Twist the pump some right and left and pull straight up. Make sure that you know where the oil pump to dist. drive shaft is.

So, Rock Auto screwed me on the last 5 VS valve springs for a 289. A guy on eBay listed 7 NOS valve springs and I bought them. But something is wrong, see the picture. What does it actually go to? The Sealed Power ones I bought from a different place is larger and looks to be the correct part. I figured if I was doing the umbrella seals I should go ahead and do the valve spring mod.

 

[drag-200stang]

I do not know about the 289 spring deal' someone else may know. If you are not using a performance cam the stock new springs will be fine. I have always used the springs that the cam maker recommends for the cam and brought them from them, they know what spring pressures is needed for the cam they designed.
If you had a beer can next to those two springs I could visually line up and measures the springs and tell you but with no visual way to know what size they are I can not.....PS I am just joking here, I have no idea.

 

[chad]

2X ^
spring’n cam we see asa ‘kit',
ALSO
in partial rebuilds drop same lifters back in same place on re-used cam

 

[Drummadude]

I do not know about the 289 spring deal' someone else may know. If you are not using a performance cam the stock new springs will be fine. I have always used the springs that the cam maker recommends for the cam and brought them from them, they know what spring pressures is needed for the cam they designed.
If you had a beer can next to those two springs I could visually line up and measures the springs and tell you but with no visual way to know what size they are I can not.....PS I am just joking here, I have no idea.

No problem. The Online 6 manual "How to Rebuild and Modify" states that the 289 valve spring mod is for a stock motor/daily driver. So that is why I was doing it

 

[chad]

I’ll take the beer’n skip the joke
8^ )

notice that the cite for bent8 spring
mod hasa cam listed w/it, no? It’s been
a very long time since I read/re-read about
that recomendation. The several posts here
fora heads-up still stand (ie caution). Good Luck
w/whatever U choose...

Let’s starta new thread w/that for the others to chip-in. This is not “headers'
(3 pages 56 posts).

 

[Drummadude]

I am pressuring the cylinder, over 60 psi, but the keepers are not releasing when I compress the spring. I'm using a magnet like the video I watched on YouTube, but they do not come off. Do I have to have the oil pan on to do this?

 

[drag-200stang]

I am pressuring the cylinder, over 60 psi, but the keepers are not releasing when I compress the spring. I'm using a magnet like the video I watched on YouTube, but they do not come off. Do I have to have the oil pan on to do this?

No, try placing a socket that will clear just the locks and will push on the rotator and hit it with a hammer a few times . Do this with the air on and more air would not hurt. That will usually loosen them.
I assume the they are stuck to the retainer rotator and not the stem right?

 

[Drummadude]

No, try placing a socket that will clear just the locks and will push on the rotator and hit it with a hammer a few times . Do this with the air on and more air would not hurt. That will usually loosen them.
I assume the they are stuck to the retainer rotator and not the stem right?

Yes, thank you for the tip, success!!!

 

[Drummadude]

Thanks a bunch Don! Mission accomplished. I'll say it again, the guys on this site are wayyyyy more helpful than the guys on my Ranger site.