Oil pump woes

JackFish

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I got underneath with a stethoscope and discovered a rather noisy oil pump.
If I recall correctly there is some sort of attachment bracket for the oil pump.
It was repaired on the rebuild and I fear that repair has failed, if not the oil pump as well.

So anyone here have any of those brackets? :)
 
I may have one on my spare block, but I wno't be able to check until Tuesday. If no luck by then, I'll take a look.
 
Yes :thanks:
I probably won't pull the engine until next week anyways.
If it's stupid simple enough I may have one made.
 
Melling M65B or M65C?

The M65C has a longer neck?
1982 - 1978 Ford Fairmont 3.3L L6 200ci
Fit Note: 3.68 Bore; ARGENTINE MFG. 5/16"" LONGER MOUNTING NECK
What's up with that?
Both pumps are listed for the car, a fox-body:

M56B:
1982 - 1978 Ford Fairmont 3.3L L6 200ci
Fit Note: 3.68 Bore; STANDARD SIZE NECK
 
If it's there, I'll pull it off. Maybe it'll give me the motivation to load that block up and take it to the recycling yard, and out of my garage

Starting to accumulate too many engines, and I'm never going to put that one back in.
 
have one on my spare block
don't have a starter for my 250 do U? (low vs hi mount)

Amherst, MA
 
chad":2nutteaw said:
have one on my spare block
don't have a starter for my 250 do U? (low vs hi mount)

Amherst, MA
Gee if I lived where you do I'd buy the starter from rockauto, or ebay.
Shouldn't be too hard to find at your local parts store.
 
o0OPP! though u wuz frm MA. "Glorious Land of Massholes", no, frm up da frozen North.
Sorry, disregard!
 
JackFish":1isucbse said:
I got underneath with a stethoscope and discovered a rather noisy oil pump.
:)

Melling oil pumps seem to have all there clearances on the low side.

Myself & does10s measured many oil pumps & found scoring or galling between the rotor & the outside ring.

On any melling oil pump i use for the small six i increase all clearances to the maximium.

I also check the pressure relief spring & have found many are above limits, causing too high oil pressure.

That is another cause of stripped distributor gears. Once the camshaft drive gear is scored no driven gear will hold up forever without camshaft replacement.

I have used nitrided gears & even a gear made by crow cams in austrailia which is the best of the best.

They won't fail right away, but the scoring of the camshaft gear eventually makes its mark on the driven gear.

If you use the yella-terra 1.65 full roller rocker arms they require the pushrod oiling system like the V-8.

To increase oil flow to the distributor gear area i grind a small flat spot on the top side of the 2 lifters on either side of the gear area. This supplies the extra oiling necessary for proper lubrication.

DSC_00022007-11-26.jpg


The stock rocker arm shaft has a overflow above the gear area on the shaft pedastal. Bill
 
jack, still need it? sorry, I haven't gotten to my garage yet, but can look tonight.

chad, it's me that's in MA as well. Over in Taunton.
 
Why do these standoff brackets break?
Both my engines had the same problem.
I am going to go see a welder to get a fix and I made a little template out of cardboard that you can see taped to the second bracket.
It appears that the tang is too short on the stock bracket as the height is OK but there is lateral movement and the bracket has to be forced over into the stud about 1/2".
pickup01.jpg

pickup02.jpg
 
I had made a little cardboard template of the angled piece.
Took it in to my welder and described the situation.
The piece he made up fits great.
I had two, so he did both for $24. I tried to give him $30 but he wouldn't take it.
:lol: He asked if it was from a tractor. :rolflmao:
 
if it was from a tractor
Hope U said "Yes"! cuz our lill tqers run like a tractor.


it's me that's in MA as well.
yup, sent a PM or if U left me a direct e-mail something to that...
 
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