Oil & Smoke..............................

strat1960s

Well-known member
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Ok folks, I'm going to start way back at the begining and work my way forward.

I little over a year and a half ago I had my motor rebuilt and a machine shop. I pulled the motor and took it to them and about 3 weeks later, I picked it up and put it back into the car. Here is what they did:
port & polish
bored 30 over
polished the crank
installed port divider
installed roller tip rocker assembly (thanks Mike)
installed new bearings, rings and seals
installed Isky 262 cam
installed new oil pump
Spin balanced the motor

Once I got the motor in, I put the (new) Weber 38 DGAS carb on and tried to run the motor long enough to break in the cam. I had to floor it just to keep the motor running. I figure I probably washed the cylinders down with gas that day. I had a shop adjust the carb and timing and the motor ran great.

A few months later I took the car to a body shop to do the body work and paint the car. The car sat for almost 4 months without being turned over. It was about 1 month after picking the car up from the body shop that it started smoking. I ran compression test and had a few cylinders that people thought my valve seals may be worn on. I took the head to the original machine shop where they replaced the valves, seals and bronze guides. Once I got everything back together, I found that the motor still smoked and was consuming about 1 qt of oil per month.
I didn't have much time where I could pull the motor again and take it to the original machine shop so I found another that could do all the work for me.
They performed the following work:
hone work on all cylinders
replaced the piston rings
replaced the oil pump
replaced all gaskets and seals

The second machine shop commented on how nice the crank and cam looked, that there were no signs of wear on either and the bearing looked perfect as well. They were impressed by the first machine shops work. The second shop told me that the carb was running a little too rich and they would adjust it at a later date. When I took the car back to them they told me that I could just advance the timing and all would be fine. That was back in December. The car still smokes and still consumes oil. I took the car to a shop with an emmissions sniffer and found that I was running rich, still. I think it was something like 6% and they adjusted the carb down to 4%.
Here are the symptoms:
As the motor is warming up @ idle, there is almost no smoke. Once the car is warmed up to 195* to 200* @ idle there is a little more smoke. When in gear but at a stop there is a lot of smoke. Once the car is warmed up to 195* to 200* and I get on the gas pedal there is also a lot of smoke. The oil pressure sits at 40 PSI when at idle or while driving. When I come to a stop while in gear the pressure dropes to about 20 PSI. I ran a compression test in late February and my readings were very consistent: 165/180 (dry and wet).

I figured that the 30 wt oil I was running was heating up and thinning out enough to seap past the rings. Yesterday, 3-26-05, I droped the oil and put in 50 wt with a new filter. I drove the car around a little and found that it barely smoked. I put the trans in park and realy rompted on the gas, then it smoked , but only a little. I put the trans in gear and still almost no smoke. I will take the car out on the highway for some fun and to see if the motor likes the 50wt. I'll keep you posted on the results.

Ted
 
Ted, can you pinpoint any one cylinder, via oil build up on that cylinders spark plugs?
Look at your pcv valve for evidence of oil on the valve & hose leading to the vacuum source? Advise William
 
This is good old-fashioned blue oil smoke, right? As opposed to black, eye-stinging fuel rich smoke? One thing that strikes me in this story is that the carb is known to be running extremely rich, suspected of washig down cylinders and everything, and the details of most of the machine work are exacting but the knowledge of what has been done with the carb and where it is actually running is very fuzzy.
 
I was trying to break in the cam while I was trying to tune the carb. The carb is running at about 4%. The smoke is not black (running rich) or Blue/gray (burning coolant). It's just plain ole' gray smoke.
My PCV is fine and I checked my plugs a few weeks ago and they were tan-ish gray.
Ted
 
Sorry if I'm being thick, but what does "running at 4%" mean? Air/fuel ratios of 12:1, 13:1, 14:1 etc. is how this is usually measured.

Also, in my experience oil smoke has a definite blueish tinge. The only plausible explanation for gray/white smoke being produced by oil that I have heard is on this forum- where oil seeping down the exhaust valve guides makes it's way into the exhaust ports and smolders (as opposed to being burned in the combustion chamber when it's getting by the rings).
 
When the technician hooked up the Sun computer to the exhaust pipes, it read 6%. Maybe it was the pectent of one of the gasses in the exhaust that indicates a rich mixture. They leaned out the carb till it read only 4 %.

As for the water vapor, This car is my daily driver. I put close to 100 miles on it each week. It is kept in my garage. I live in Phoenix AZ and it has been getting warmer and warmer. I have questioned the posibility of an internal coolant leak, but my levels have been the same for several months now.

As for the gray smoke being a leaking exhaust seal/valve, it could be. Isn't that something that would show up on my compression tests???

Please don't get me wrong, I am not trying to be fiesty or ungrateful. I am taking all of your thoughts and suggestions and trying them out. Please keep the thoughts and suggestions rolling in.

Ted
 
The way I understand it, leaky valve guides/seals would not cause any loss in compression if the valve heads themselves were still sealing well. So oil could be seeping down alongside the valve stems and causing this. On the intake side, this oil would eventaully get sucked into the combustion chambers and burned, on the exhaust side it could smolder and the smoke would go out the tailpipe. The bright side is I don't think you are hurting anything (except the environment and maybe your pride) by driving an engine with this problem.
 
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