ok guys time for some advice from you

[Positively Ralf]

So I finally decided that I will be getting the 2bbl conversion done this summer and to tell the truth, I want to get it out of the way as soon as humanly possible. I'm hoping to do it something within the next month. As you know, I have a bare bones 200 in a 74 Maverick. I've read the Ford Six book back and forth and for some reason it is just not ticking with me when it comes to this mod.

This will be for me a pretty big mod because I will basically be handing over my car to the machinist and asking him to go along with it. Now, when I hand it over to him, I know I will be asking for a 3 angle valve job and the conversion. Will there be anything else I need to tell him before leaving? Will my head need to be milled or anything else? I'll be using the original head of course so I doubt any compression changing will need to be done.

Guess what I am asking, will I be good with just telling him for the 3 angle valve job and the conversion? Ir should I ask em for any extra work to be done?

 

[Lazy JW]

There will never be a better time to do some mild pocket porting. Ask how much this will cost, but there really is no bigger bang for the buck. It will really enhance the other modifications you are having done.
Joe

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Ralf:

You will need to mill, at least to true the mating surface of the head. You will also need to compensate for the difference in thickness of the head gasket you will use for re-assembly when compared to the OEM gasket at about .025" thick. Most aftermarket gaskets will be between .045" and .055" thick. If you don't mill you will reduce your Compression ratio and lose compression. Milling the head is considered part of a head rebuild and valve job. How much to mill depends on several variables. IIRC you engine will have a stock CR rating of 8.2:1. You could easily bump that up to 8.7:1 range and still safely run regular gas. The increase in CR would yeild you better MPG and power. It is worth doing.

That's my two cents, for what it's worth.

Adios, David

 

[Positively Ralf]

Thanks fr the replies guys.

BTW, Davd, I was looking through some of my older posts and found this. It was some advice you had given me before. Would it still apply this time around and should itbe another thing I talk to the machinist about? You had told me the following.

Performance valve job-
*At least a three angle valve job
*Add a back cut to the intake valves
*smooth and polish the combustion chambers
*mill to compensate for composite head gasket and to attain goal CR.
*thoroughly clean the rocker arm assembly.
*Be sure to replace the valve stem seals too.
*machine for the two barrel conversion.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Ralf:

Yes, That should be considered a basic performance valve job list. All of it is fairly normal/common for a machinist and taking the opportunity while the head is off. A basic Valve job gasket set will include new valve stem seals. Polishing the chambers an modding for a two barrel are the only two that would not be considered basic.

Milling to compensate for the difference in head gasket thickness will cover milling to true the mating surfaces so that's a non-issue. Cleaning the rocker arm assembly will be alot easier for your machinist assuming he has a cleaning tank. Be sure to check the two oiling holes on each rocker. You may need a drill bit to knock baked on crud out of them.

IF you don't want to measure the chambers to determine their volumes you can estimate aproximately .025" for the difference in gasket thickness and .040" for getting the CR up to the 8.7:1 range. So a total cut of .065" will get the job done.

Be sure to run a bottom tap down the head bolt holes to clean them out before torquing the head down.

Adios, David