Ok to run at 160-180 coolant temps?

On these upright type radiators (cross flows are a little different) that the flow of water coolant mix is drawn from the lower part of the radiator through the bottom radator hose into the water pump pushing it into the bottom of the engine block. Where its next pushed up into the head and then past the T-Stat and out the T-State housing out into the upper radiator hose and back into the top of the radator were gravity drops it through the radiators core tubes while the air / and fan flowing past over the radiators tubes / core fins now cools the water or coolant mix down. The cooled water or mix is then pulled by suction back through the botom radiator hose outlet into the water pump and pushing it back into the bottom of the short block starting the whole process all over again. :nod:
 
bubba22349":dl2aaevb said:
...into the water pump pushing it into the bottom of the engine block. Where its next pushed up into the head and then past the T-Stat and out the T-State housing out into the upper radiator hose... :nod:
Click to expand...
Thnx bubba.
How bout while in the block and thru the head?
I C the enterence it goes thru the H2O pump, then "down" the block? duz it get near the pan/crank? I C the horozontal passages w/the head off, but what is the longitudianl branche(s). It seems to go to the back of the head? Enter & flow accross? Back into the block? I C the exit at the top w/"water neck".
:hmmm:
 
Isn't that near the crankshaft or rods just going down around the bottom of the cylinder walls. Crankshaft and Rods also get more cooling by the oil flowing through the bearings and back into the oil pan. If you look at a bare block some time or some of the sites pictures with the Freeze Plugs knocked out you can see the large passages around the cylinders. With the head off and it Freeze Plug pulled and T-Stat housing pulled you can see the large passage inside the head and the smaller passages that also connects the head and block chambers togeather. The water coolant mix is cooling the engine block mostly from the combustion generated heat. :nod:
 
all at 15 to 20 lbs pressure the H2O moves around pretty good. Just never figured it went to the head.
Sounds like 1 pass there, back to front. Then into water neck...

"... get more cooling by the oil flowing..."
yep, higher pressure, smaller spaces...

Thnx!
 
Hi, as far as the gauge from Ford, all you can say is it is hot or cold. I will only trust a quality aftermarket gauge or a digital temp gun on the thermostat housing. Good luck
 
Sorry, my mistake, I had that reversed - I checked and my Sunpro mechanical gauge is the one in the rear of the head (the more accurate one and the one I'm monitoring)... I moved the stock electrical gauge to the water outlet.

Chad, I do have a handheld infrared temp meter already.. if I wanted to double check my temps where would be best to point it at? The outside of the head? Outside of the radiator? And I looked at those Derale kits too, problem is they're all too thick for my car. Same with the junk yard ones... The 66 mustang was a small car, no real room front to back with a straight six.
 
Y not "all over" ?
Collect the data, develope a hypothesis, test it (experiment), analyse the data, etc...
What do U wish to accomplish? how can U get there?
Have fun, B a scientst !
 
:beer: great with the temp sender mounted in the rear of the head this should be were temp sender can read the hottest part of the engine as Ford designed. Typically the front number 1 cylinder is the coolest point were the water pump is always bringing in the coolest water coolant mix. :nod:
 
10 inch Dereal can push or pull $70. Room in frnt? (is it 2 5/8th inch @ fatest?)
U just take 1/2 the tarus (is a 2 fan dealie, 2nd on when extra hot).

OK, back of head...I'm not lookin right now...is there a nock-out-plug or sompin there?
The IR U can point every where'n C da hottest... :thumbup:
IR: best (if accurate) but hand held
mechanical: reliabiity (my choice)
ele: miphphph
 
chad":15yla7mv said:
10 inch Dereal can push or pull $70. Room in frnt? (is it 2 5/8th inch @ fatest?)
U just take 1/2 the tarus (is a 2 fan dealie, 2nd on when extra hot).

OK, back of head...I'm not lookin right now...is there a nock-out-plug or sompin there?
The IR U can point every where'n C da hottest... :thumbup:
IR: best (if accurate) but hand held
mechanical: reliabiity (my choice)
ele: miphphph
Click to expand...
Chad, thats where the temp sensor is on the head for the dash gauge.
 
that doesn't sound familiar, don'r remember whats goin on right now there, sorry. :?: Gotta go check. Thnx
Wanna swap in a mechanical heat guage, tho~

Never know if I'll get ina ele fan. Can I use the same thermo sensor for both - in the water neck? Need ta run a power source to it to do that? Justa stray thought from a guy who dont understand nuttin bout auto elec-tricks
nope 8^ (
 
Now that I'm looking, I do have a lot more space in front of the radiator than behind it.. can I just put a pusher electric fan there? I always thought pushers were usually more as supplemental fans since they're not as strong, but obviously I don't need much, and probably just at idle.

I'd feel much more comfortable with that - even with thinnest fans I've found (2"), the 1/4" clearance to the pulley just seems way too tight to me.
 
Technically a 1/4 inch of clearance between your water pump pulley (with mechanical fan removed) and a radiator mounted electric fan is enough because there isn't going to be any forward or rearward movement of the engine. :nod:
 
I don't think it's fixed - I can't get above 180 degrees even on a really hot day. Most of the time I'm at 170. The only reason I'm looking at electric fans is to get rid of the mechanical so I can have it so the fan basically never runs.. only turns on when I need it.
 
If you (or anybody else here) is near Abilene, TX - I've got a couple Volvo electric fans, a couple Buick ones, and one or two "universal" ones. The Volvo ones move an astonishing amount of air, also can draw an astonishing amount of current.

Free to any fordsixer, they're taking up space in my garage.
 
thnx for the offer James
 
Yes there are a couple of possible good advantages going to an electric fan. First is for sure that by removing the mechanical fan you get back a significant amount of HP loss (this can totall as much as 12 to 15 HP for all of the accessories). Reducing the power the engine is now using turning all those front mounted accessories of the Water Pump, Fan, and Alternator as the minimum number of accessories needed.

Second might be a little iffy but you may get that engine temp up a little more since the fan would not be turning constantly and blowing air accross the radiators the cores fins, plus over the engine too, instead the electric fan would only turn on when the engine is at a high enough temp. Like maybe climbing a grade or during extended Ideling in traffic, but as cold as your engine is running now I wouldn't be surprised if the electric fan almost never came on. Cheaper experiments might be to still try blocking off part of the radiators air flow, or maybe first try pulling the mechanical fan off and see if the temp goes up much idleing. On my old T bucket I ran without a fan and was fine unless was in summer traffic, but my radiator also didn't hold much pressure (4 PSI) or cool as well as what yours is doing. Best of luck :thumbup: :nod:
 
our guys like it when crossing water courses,
no waves to push around,
pretty heavy!
LOL !
 
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