one bolt to loosen to adjust timing?

[Anonymous]

Hey there, am I right when I think that there's just one bolt towards the back of the car to loosen to adjust the timing on this money hole?

Also I have an autolite 1100 and I would like some pointers before I adjust them on my own.

I had it "tuned" but it came back running worse than when it left. I've never adjusted points and I'm not even sure what to turn and what to leave alone!

 

[Anonymous]

i would suggest getting the petronix instead of points. Points go out frequently and have to be adjusted...I like the relaiblility of pertronix.

I find my 1100 isnt too hard to tune but I only do tthe two adjustments for idle and mixture is it...I wouldnt wanna advise you

I have same timing question....

let us know how you make out

 

[CobraSix]

okay... Autolite 1100s 101:

There are only 4 adjustments you can really make on the 1100 Autolite:

1) The rich/lean adjustment of the choke. real easy, loosen the 3 screws on the choke housing and turn it the desired direction to make the choke release sooner or later (leaner or richer). You usually don't need to mess with that one.

2) The choke throttle screw. Just forward of the choke housing, there is a screw that will adjust the opening of the throttle based on the choke being on or off. one again, usually only adjusted once to adjust the choke. Only thing to be aware of, make sure that screw is not forcing the throttle open when the choke is off.

3) on the rear of the carb, close to the base, on the driver's side of the carb, there is a screw (not the choke screw) that adjusts the base opening angle of the butterfly at idle. This one took me a long time to figure out what it did, but basically you use it as a "rough" idle adjustment. get the RPMS to within 50 of what you want (clockwise opens the butterfly, thus increasing RPM). This one threw me for loops for weeks this summer as I couldn't get my RPMs down, and couldn't figure out why. That screw was the reason.

4) Last, but definitely not least, is the idle fuel/air mix screw. This is on the passenger side, front, on the base of the carb. it is basically your "fine" idle speed adjustment screw. real easy way to tune it. you can either go with a vacuum gauge hooked up the manifold and turn the mix screw until you get max vacuum. Or you can do it by ear (or tach). First,turn the screw clockwise until it is all the way closed (do this with the car off), then turn CCW 2.5 complete turns. This gives you a good startingn point. Now start the car up, and turn the screw CCW until the RPMs go down. by turning CCW, you are richening the mixture and eventually you'll flood it and teh RPMs will drop. when the RPMs start to drop, start to turn the screw CW slowly counting the number of turns you are doing. you are going to turn the screw CW until the RPMs drop again. This time, it is dropping because the carb is running too lean. Now, turn the screw CCW between 1/2 turn and 1/2 the number of turns you made from teh rich RPM drop to the lean RPM drop. personally, I usually do about 1/2 turn from the lean drop as this gives about the best mileage and performance.

Make sense?

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Hey there, am I right when I think that there's just one bolt towards the back of the car to loosen to adjust the timing

yes if i think i know what u are talking about, u are right. There is one bold holding down the horseshoe which keeps the distributer from moving (but thats toward the front of the car unless u have a V8). Every time i swap carbs or adust anything that would throw the timing off i just loosen that one bolt and twist the distributer untill i get a nice smooth idle and clean rev. ( keep in mind what cobra six said cauze everything works together for the best performance) My old engine always ran like crap after the shop tuned it, if u know how to tune an engine by ear then thats the way to go cause by the book tuning doesnt always work for every engine.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, my car is running MUCH better now, the real test will be tomorrow when I take it on the road for more than 5 minutes. Any idea why I would experience a loss of power when the car gets up to operating temp?

BTW cobrasix, we should get together and put an online illustrated series, you make it seem real simple.

 

[Anonymous]

I would love to get rid of my points, but I have collector plates on the car and I'm not sure what that would do to my cars status.

Besides, I have to figure out why my passenger side headlight keeps burning out

 

[Anonymous]

switching from points to electric shouldnt effect the status of your car but u should check with the people who insure your car (or whoever checks the engine for collector status) cause points do suck ( been there.)

 

[Anonymous]

Since I read the last couple of posts, I've looked at a few install pics and they sure look stock. Nobody looked at the engine, as a matter of fact all I had to do was send in pictures for them to look at. I'm assuming that if the car "looks" like the pics I sent in I can't be blamed, how am I to know what is stock or not right? RIGHT?!?!

Anyhoo, what model and associated pieces would you suggest? And is there a step by step illustrated install example you can link me to?

 

[CobraSix]

Here is how the pertronix looks:

http://www.kastang.net/pertronix.html

installation is pretty simple. All you need is to order the right pertronix for your DIZZY, not the car. I did it within a week of buying my car. worth every penny and really easy. I'm not sure about your Canucks, but most US states don'e really check cars for collectors, they just charge more for the plates.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Here collector plates are the best deal in town, I'm only paying $30 / month to keep my car on the road with full replacement insurance. How would I find out what dizzy I have, as far as I know it's still the original, I have all the receipts for the entire life of the car, even the original bill of sale, owners manual etc.

As far as setting my timing, I've been told that I need somebody to do a brakestand while I adjust the dizzy, the only other person here is my wife and she's too short to drive the car because she can't depress the brake all the way in so my under the hood while she does a brakestand seems to be a little dangerous.

If I put the parking brake on and put it in drive will I be able to acheive the same results?

 

[Anonymous]

thats how i do it cause it runs different at idle than in gear, so ust put on the e brake (hope it works ) and adjust till its the best u can get it. i dont have a dwell meter so it takes a few tries. and when u have it set up just take it for a short spin and see how she drives.