original thickness head gaskets

61bluebird":1vedaad9 said:
high heat engine paint,he sprayed both sides of the gasket with a good coat and put it together

I used to use brush-on "Hi Tack" but if I ever used one again I would use Permatex Liquid teflon sealant instead

65Stang200":1vedaad9 said:
Hey bluebird, how's your falcon coming along?

I like that pic a lot, it looks kind of period. I love the red rims with moon hubcaps on a black car!
 

How about a possible group buy to offset the cost of the setup? Anyone interested?

Don,
That might be a possibility. Just so you know that we paid $160 for one gasket. It's also .056" thick. The thinner you want them, the less they cost.
Also you should anneal it. Copper needs to be soft to conform to the head/block for proper sealling. You also need to spray it, and run a bead of silicon (or equivalant) to get the water passages to seal. Even then it might "seep".
For proper sealling you need to O-ring the block and add "receiver groove" into the head. If you run a thick gasket (> .050" or so) then you don't need to do the "receiver groove".
Notice that the SS gaskets are stamped with raised portions around the bores and passages. The copper gasket will not have these. Hence the reason for the O-rings.
IMO....if a power adder is NOT used, and you want to keep the compression the same as "stock" or raise it, then mill the head down and use a Fel-Pro or Corteco gasket.
Later,
Will
 
How about a possible group buy to offset the cost of the setup? Anyone interested?

don[/quote]

I just got an email from them and they will do a mass buy. They are going to get back with me in a bit with prices.
 
65Stang200":26ssq21o said:
Hey bluebird, how's your falcon coming along?


its ok,im gonna be getting another rear for it soon,then a straight axle for it.gonna go gasser with it,not sure if im gonna keep the six tho,i might be puttin a chevy small block in it
 
How about "NO" head gasket? With some of the newer synthetic sealers available it may be possible to assemble a head to a block without a gasket at all. Just a good finish is all that's needed.
 
MustangSix":2yno114w said:
How about "NO" head gasket? With some of the newer synthetic sealers available it may be possible to assemble a head to a block without a gasket at all. Just a good finish is all that's needed.

Thats a thought.... What sealer would you use and what life expectancy do you think it would have?
 
The original exhaust manifolds on the little six (and the big FE engines) were installed with no gasket and those typically held up for a long time.

You would definitely need a sealer to make sure the water and oil passages were contained. There are some pretty good sealers on the market now that eliminate a lot of gaskets. A thin film is all you might need.

The trick is probably to make sure theres a good surface finish on the mating parts.

Will this work? I dunno, but food for thought.
 
Didn't the Merlin V-12 have scraped, gasketless interfaces? Not sure on head or block material, though. Could be a fun project; blue it up, torque down, remove, scrape, repeat ad infinitum...

Cheers, Adam.
 
MustangSix":iv79q6xz said:
The trick is probably to make sure theres a good surface finish on the mating parts.

You would have to specify a very fine RMA finish when the machinist does the work.

Aircraft engine are assembled with Permatex "Hylomar".
No gaskets, works great.
 
I still have a small amount of 144 - 170 factory OEM steel shim head gaskets. The 200 - 250s that I had are all gone. PM me.
 
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