Pardon my noobness but I need help

[Anonymous]

I'm sorry to bother you all with these questions. If there is another place I should be asking such simple questions I will not be offendend if you direct me there.

I am restoring a 68 block/69 head 200 and have several questions.

1. I think I need a choke tube (see pictures). Where can I get it?
2. I believe I have a dual vacum advance distributor. When I got the engine one of the tubes was sealed (see pictures). Should I restore the dual vacum/change the distributor or what? Also, you can see I have a rubber vacum hose should this be changed? If so where can I find the stock metal tubing.
3. Lastly what should I do about PCV? Will a simple breather cap do the trick?

This is my first attempt at any car restoration or work for that matter. When I got this car this engine was in horrible shape and was a hodge podge of various parts, I can't believe it even ran. I am doing my best at this resto but I will take any suggestions I can get (AKA if you see something totally screwed up feel free to slap me silly.) Once again if I should go elsewhere with these questions just let me know.

Thank You very much,
Neil Wagner

<img src="http://www.quantapro.com/car/engine1.jpg">
<img src="http://www.quantapro.com/car/engine2.jpg">

 

[Anonymous]

Nice lookin engine!

The choke heat tube you can pick up at any auto parts store. Its generic and comes with the necessary fittings and you cut the tube to length yourself.

If you want to make a steel line, I used steel brake line and bent it myself. The line will only cost $2-$3 but the bender will cost around $20.00 It has many other uses though!
If the distro works fine I would keep it for now.

You should have a breather cap on the front and a pcv valve on the back. I wonder that being yours doesnt have the pcv provision in the back and the style/lettering if it isnt a early 60's valve cover that went on a engine that was equipped with a draft tube.

I'm not sure but you might want to swap to a different valve cover. Maybe some one else can give you another opinon on that.

Hope this helps!

Later,

Doug

 

[MustangSix]

That valve cover is the one used for engines equipped with a road draft tube, which your block does not have. I have a spare 1966 valve cover which uses a PCV and the same breather which you can have for the cost of shipping.

I also noticed that you hooked your carb baseplate to the water pump. Stock, the front connection on the baseplate is connected to the front of the head.

 

[Anonymous]

Thank You both, I would be very interested in your valve cover. PM me with how you would like to arrange payment. As for the coolant line, I hooked it up as it was when I received the car. would that have caused any damage that I should be aware of?

Also,
any other suggestions are much appreciated. My plan is to get this one up and running some what stock and then go for a performance machine once I get my feet wet.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Neil:

Your distributor should work well as you have it installed. the distributor has centrifugal advance as well as the vacuum advance/retard mechanism, but the retard pard is blocked off. You may find excessive advance at an Idle and at cruise, but tht can be moderated by liniting initial advance.

If you can, take a look as another '66 to '69 six to see where the choke hot air tube leaves the center of the exhaust manifold and routes to the choke. Also the hot water hose to the carb heater plate, to the heater inlet on the fire wall.

So far you've done a nice looking job. Just keep it up.

What is the casting code on the head. You'll find it on the intake log behind the carb pad.

The carb is an Autolite 1100 for an automatic trans.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info.

The casting code is C9DE-6090-J

 

[Anonymous]

Hey CZLN6,

I thought the spark control valve on the carb. was eliminated on the cars such as this w/ the dual advance dist. (see his first pic.)

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy All:

Your right on FoMoCo6! The carb in the photo has a spark control valve on it. It's the shiny disc thing to the left of the vacuum tap. It looks sorta like a holleypower valve. The 1100 carb in this photo has to be '67 or earlier. Neil, do you know what year the carb is from? Ideally Neil, you will need to find an Autolite 1100 for a '68 or '69. The problem is compatibility with the distributor. The problem with the '68 & '69 distributor is that they came with a 1.10" venturi that flowed 156 cfm, while earlier 1100s use on 200s have a 1.20" venturi and a cfm of 186. That's a big difference in performance. Fortunately, the venturi on the 1100 carb are removeable and easily swapped when rebuilding.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

David

You are right. I have a 66 coupe all stock with the only part from a different year a 1969 1100 carb. The car suffers from shortage of air I can tell. Everything is ok up to 40-50 and then the car is just out of breath. Do not ask me how is connected because the truth is that it has a lot of hoses that are cut off or disconnected.

What about a 1970 1100 carb? (a friend has one)
Advantages, disadvantages?
Which is a good carb for the 200?

Thanks
Vas

 

[Anonymous]

Hey there! Mighty fine engine you got there!

Just an opinion - you may want to think about going ahead and installing a 2bbl on there while you have the car out. I went through 3 different carbs before I landed on the 2bbl that I just love.

Otherwise, I would reccomend a Holley 1946. They are easy to get (you can get a rebuild from NAPA) and bolt right up.

But, I think a nice 2bbl would suit the car and be a great upgrade!

 

[Anonymous]

One other thing I noticed in the pictures - you seem to be missing the spacer for the fan. I can't tell, but it looks like somehow you've attached the fan directly to the water pump pulley.

Not sure how that's going to work - but I do know there should be a spacer there.

Also (and I'm not sure if you're going for a 100% correct resto or not), but you could also get a chrome air cleaner with correct PCV valve. That sure would look nice as well!

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

By 1970 FoMoCo had gone over to a Carter YF one barrel. Even though the cfm rating is about the same as the earlier ( to '67) Autolite 1100s at 185 it is greater then the 1968 & 69 1100 at 150 cfm. The problem is that the Carter YFs used a throttle cable linkage rather than the mechanical linkage. Switching over to a throttle cable/ pedal system is not a big deal and has some advantages.

The Carter YF one barrel is considered by many to be an improvement over the 1100 in several areas. They have a more efficient and sophisticated idle, transition, and a slightly better accelerater pump. They still are very sensitive to dirt and crud and require periodic rebuilding, mostly to clean and freshen the accelerator pump. It is definitely more complicated than the 1100, and not as much fun to rebuild.

the Carter YF would be a good match for your distributor.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Hey guys thanks again for the wealth of info.

Corellian, as far as the fan spacer goes it wasn't there when I got the car. The car is a 63 that has a transplanted 68/69 engine which received a splattering of parts from both engines. I'm not sure but I don't think the 63 had a spacer. Anyone know if I should put one on and/or will there be enough clearance with it in a 63? Also note the generator mount from it's 63 counterpart I am still seeking an original alternator mount to change that out.

As far as the Carb is concerned I am open to suggestions. However, I want to be sure about my decision because of the work/cost I have rapped up in that damn 1100. I'm not trying to go totally stock with this engine. However I am holding back on this one a bit while a learn a little more about what I am doing. That being said I would probably lean toward another single barrell.

So the big question everyone what carb with the least mods will work best?