Pertronix one installation

franko66

Well-known member
I am getting a pertronix 1 kit from CJ Pony parts soon. I have read online to get better performance from the set up that you should get 12 volts to the coil instead of the resistor wire supplying 6 volts. I checked the voltage today . I removed the wire at the coil from the key start. I placed a meter between the coil and the wire and had 11.76 volts with the key in the on position ( engine off). How do you check the correct voltage to the coil? Yesterday I was adjusting the points and I had my dwell meter connected to the distributor side of the coil to check the dwell. I changed my meter setting to voltage with the test wires still arranged to test dwell. The Voltage reading was 6 volts with the engine running. If I need to change the wiring what is the best way on a 66 Mustang? One person said to connect a new wire from a 3 spade connector that is on the ignition circuit and run it to the coil. Is there a ballast resistor or is the wire a resistor on a 66 Mustang? Just dont want to screw up the ignitor.
 
Ford used a resistor wire that takes about 15 min of run time to hit full resistance , thats the reason you had the 2 different readings , just replace the wire running to the + side and you should be fine
 
do I need to re-adjust the timing after the pertronix one is installed? If so what is the timing to be re-set at? The engine is stock without any upgrades.also I heard that you can widen the spark plug gap to get better spark. They are set at .035 right now.should I re-set the timing and the plug gaps?
 
The Specs shouldnt change BUT, it never hurts to check , Unless you upgrade your wires and get a better coil .035 is fine .045 is the max I recommend on a small diameter cap ( like the stock one ) Ford upped the gaps but not untill the Duraspark hit ( better coil and bigger Diameter Cap )
 
I am getting the flamethrower coil and wires with the pertronix kit. I have the factory distributor. Do they have a bigger cap for the original 66 200 I6? If so , does it help performance? also Thanks for the help!!
 
If this is the Original Dist ( loadamatic ) then no just use a good cap and rotor with Brass contacts , open up the gaps to .045 and your good to go with those wires and dist ( as long as you ditch the resistance wire ) if this is a 67 and up dist ( points still ) then the Duraspark Cap ( along with the adapter ) and matching rotor is an option , but your splitting hairs on the benift vs cost .
 
Check these info sheets and diagrams:

http://www.geocities.com/a65ragtop/VM_F ... iring.html

http://www.geocities.com/rustobucket/Mu ... nix-2.html

They both say pretty much the same thing. NOTE: *cue loud, spooky music*

When they say "ballast resistor", they mean the PINK WIRE from the key/ignition switch to the coil. This cuts the voltage to the coil from 12V to 6V. You have to bypass this wire to get 12V switched power to your coil.

How to do it? Use the 'search' function and look for 'pink wire'. There is an abundance of info to be found. The simplest way is to tap into the lead out of the ignition switch to the pink wire BEFORE the pink wire and run a new lead to the engine room to feed the coil. Leave the pink wire and cap it off with a bullet plug with no lead attached.
 
After I run a new wire like you said to get 12 volts to the coil by bypassing the resistor wire. Do I still leave the old push on electrical connector attached to the positive side of the coil? And do I disonnect and plug off (abandon)the pink wire and connect the new wire directly to the key switch?or just tap into the line before the pink wire and still leave the ping wire attached without losing the connection. Also while on this subject, should I disconnect the brown wire to the starter solenoid after the wiring is completed. I would like to play the radio on accessory position on the key start without hurting the pertronix. If I connect everything like you are saying will the pertronix have 12volts supplied with the key in accessory (Radio) position?I want to install this weekend with the flamethrower coil and plug wires. I think that the key in start\run position would be the only way to get 12 volts to the coil if wired like you explained.
 
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