Ported vacuum

[edsnz33]

Can someone please help me out with the vacuum lines on my 1965 Mustang 6 cylinder 3.3? I believe it has a 1978 Fairmont 3.3 engine. Most of the vacuum lines are missing or not there. It has two ported switches with two outlets each. I would like to know what are the most important vacuums that I need to connect and do they go to.

 

[bubba22349]

How much of that system do you want to hook up? You can match up the equipment you have with these Vacuum Diagrams. http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_3.3/index.html

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, so most of the emission equipment has been hacked off of the car, as well as the A/C compressor. The important parts that need direct manifold vacuum are the PCV system, and the automatic transmission vacuum modulator. The distributor advance canister should get ported vacuum from the carb (that looks like it is hooked up). The EGR valve under the carb is useless, the exhaust diverter valve is rotten, hoses are missing. Good luck.

 

[edsnz33]

Thanks

Hi, so most of the emission equipment has been hacked off of the car, as well as the A/C compressor. The important parts that need direct manifold vacuum are the PCV system, and the automatic transmission vacuum modulator. The distributor advance canister should get ported vacuum from the carb (that looks like it is hooked up). The EGR valve under the carb is useless, the exhaust diverter valve is rotten, hoses are missing. Good luck.

thank you

 

[Frank]

Thanks

thank you

edsnz23- welcome. Needed: 1) PCV from the valve in valve cover to intake manifold. The small line on top of the PCV valve is a fuel tank purge. It should be traced to see where it goes in your older model car. that feature did not exist in '65, it's left over from the newer engine, so what is it hooked to? Most likely it should be removed, but judge it first. If it's removed, plug the nipple on the PCV valve. 2) Manifold vacuum to auto trans modulator. 3)The pic doesn't give a clear shot of the distributor, but it appears it may be a 2 port advance canister. For correct vacuum advance, remove the inner hose that's closer to the distributor cap. Trace it to the engine side and plug that port, do away with it. Do NOT plug the inner nipple on the advance canister, it has to be open to atmosphere. (keeping a short piece of hose on it to keep dust out is good, but don't plug it.) The outer hose on the advance canister needs to be routed to ported carb vacuum. No other vacuum lines are needed, remove and plug at the engine anything else. You can get rid of a good bit of half-plugged lines running nowhere. Clean all that up, if it's not used remove it completely and plug the port at the intake. Forget about the ported switches. Verify the condition of your vacuum lines, I see at least one that is kinked and in weak condition.
PCV, auto trans, one distributor advance. Get rid of the rest.

 

[edsnz33]

Here’s some additional pictures. I will remove everything else you’ve told me. Thanks for your help.

 

[78_200_C4]

I left all the emision crap at Pick'N'Pull. I stripped the 78 Fairmont 200 down to the long block then pulled it out.
When got it home I pulled the head and it didn't have and ridge at all on the top of the cylinders. The crank journals looked good so I replaced the rod, main and cam bearings, cam, lifters and so on. The new Hastings rings cost $15.00 free shipping on Ebay. I also found the best quality standard bearings on Ebay which were not available at Rockauto. I installed all new Rockauto valves in the head then took it to a machine shop. This way the machine shop couldn't jack up the price of new valves. I had .060 milled off the head, new valve guides and machined the head to get rid of the umbrella valve stem seals.

 

[Kritas]

I left all the emision crap at Pick'N'Pull. I stripped the 78 Fairmont 200 down to the long block then pulled it out.
When got it home I pulled the head and it didn't have and ridge at all on the top of the cylinders. The crank journals looked good so I replaced the rod, main and cam bearings, cam, lifters and so on. The new Hastings rings cost $15.00 free shipping on Ebay. I also found the best quality standard bearings on Ebay which were not available at Rockauto. I installed all new Rockauto valves in the head then took it to a machine shop. This way the machine shop couldn't jack up the price of new valves. I had .060 milled off the head, new valve guides and machined the head to get rid of the umbrella valve stem seals.

I have a '78 Fairmont 200 with a 250 head. This sounds like exactly what I'd like to do with my own engine. What compression ratio were you targeting by milling .060 off the head, and how does it perform? Did it meet your expectations? I'm thinking that bumping up the compression on my engine would give me a boost in performance when coupled with better carburation and perhaps a change in gearing at the rear.

 

[Frank]

Here’s some additional pictures. I will remove everything else you’ve told me. Thanks for your help.

Sorry for the delay responding. Pic one: if possible remove the whole assembly from the exhaust manifold and plug the hole with the correct threaded plug. You can leave it in there- IF there's no exhaust leak where it's kinked or exhaust leaking out the end. Does not need plugging on the end. I recommend spraying a small shot of PB Blaster on it once every day or so for at least a week. Then see if you can get it off there- looks bad, and gives away that it's a newer emissions engine.
Pic 2- that's an incorrect hose routing. Remove the vacuum line and plug both ends. Also in pic 2- the larger hose to the left of the one in your hand that's attached to the carb and just dangling there- remove it and plug it at the carb.

 

[edsnz33]

Thanks for all the help I highly appreciate it.

 

[78_200_C4]

I have a '78 Fairmont 200 with a 250 head. This sounds like exactly what I'd like to do with my own engine. What compression ratio were you targeting by milling .060 off the head, and how does it perform? Did it meet your expectations? I'm thinking that bumping up the compression on my engine would give me a boost in performance when coupled with better carburation and perhaps a change in gearing at the rear.

 

[chad]

I cant see to good but think he hasa BBD which was the last evolved carb, no? I'd hook that up proper. They were a good 2v.

I see what might B an older dizzy. I'd put in the later duraspark (also a match to this motor).

The (football) exauhst is less a concern (but duz havea cat). He has his R index finger in prt of it (to an air pump his further right or belt mount frnt dress) in pic 1 post 6.

Lastly, "...the most important vacuums..." I'd pretty much hook em all up. They help w/performance (that's pep AND MPGs) and keep ya clean running to assist the planet (a friend in need). I gota '85 w/so many more'n searched outa separate, complete guide to them only, to rehab what some wild man just swept his hand thru the bay rippin it all out (broken tubes everywhere). W/each replacement it runs a lill beddah (hasa 2 jet central fuel injection system).

 

[78_200_C4]

Some carbs (China Made) have a very weak ported vacuum.
My vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum thru a 12 volt vacuum switch controlled by a micro switch that shuts off vacuum to the vacuum advance at idle. Too much advance at idle can cause an engine to miss.