porting log head intake?

70 grabber

Well-known member
sorry another log head question! Would it be so difficult to cut the log( from the center of where the freeze plugs are top to bottom, making a"c" shape) and then porting it out and either just welding it back on or better yet tapping it and putting studs in to bolt it back on and then installing a 350 cfm 2 v carb.I just dont for see much complication in this and am looking for advise on better ways or the shortcommings of doing something like this.And just to let u know I do plan on turbo in the future.Any info pertaining to this would greatly b appreciated as I am trying to do something next week.thanks all for your expertise!
 
I wouldn't venture so far as to label it impossible but it is not only quite a daunting task (from what i understand iron is not the easiest to weld with) but still does not address the inherent design shortcomings of the log head such as the sharp angles of the intake.
 
You can do a pretty good porting job without disassembling the head. The exhaust ports are quite accessible and require a bit of work. The restriction on the intake ports is mainly on the sharp radius curve (bottom side of the runner) and you can pretty well get to it as long as you have porting burrs with a long shank. The time and money spent doing what you propose can be better invested elsewhere, IMHO.
 
so You think I can just remove the freeze plugs and with long burrs be able to basicually hone out all the corners inside the intake?With this done along with a 3 angle valve job ,32*backcut ,and a little cutting work on the exhaust side.topped with a 350 holley 2v will I be good to go with my head?It is a daily driver but looking for improved performance.I want to go when I step on the gas not a half mile later!
 
no, you won't be able to hone out the corners inside the log, but smoothing those curves won't help much anyhow. You do all your porting work from inside the pocket, trying to smooth airflow past the valve. Focus on the sharp radius curve (the one on the "bottom" when the head is right-side-up. And, as suggested by Jackfish, the valve guide boss. Polish the chambers and mill the head to whatever cc you desire for a target static compression ratio. It's not so important to polish the intake runners, but you can feel free to polish the exhaust runners after a good porting.

Other than that your plan sounds good. Are you going to direct-mount the carb, or use an adapter? direct mounting will make a big difference, too. Look at my thread on the headwork I did last year for some ideas on that.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... light=head

There is some evidence to suggest that the autolite 2v carbs from Pony carbs make more power than the holley. Read this:
http://classicinlines.com/PCdyno.asp
Those results are rom the aluminum head, but it suggests that the Autolite 240 with the smaller venturis might be better than the 287 for an application such as this. On that engine they both made more power than the holley 500.

You are going to need a performance cam in order to really feel the effects of this headwork. the stock cam is supremely lame and while you will get better performance from this work, it won't be what you expect if you stay with the stock cam.
 
thanks,I am going for the direct mount carb and I will now search for an autolite 240cfm carb.I am also going to b using turbo in the future so I dont want to shave the head I already have 9-1 compression stock.I also noticed in your topics u said money is better spent on a cam than roller rockers?If I turbo dont I want to stay close to stock cam size?and thanks guys for all this info.
 
I believe Pony modifies those carbs with an annular discharge nozzle. Not sure if that is factory for all autolites, or only pony's, but it is apparently the factor in improved performance versus the holley.

As for cams, i don't believe the stock cam is a good choice for any application, turbo, S/C, or NA. It just sucks. Obvoiusly, a turbo will work great on any engine, but you'll doubtless have a happier engine with a peppy cam than without. I only said that because I have the stock cam and was a little dissapointed after dropping $450 on the roller rockers and noticing only a meager improvement in performance. Having done cam swaps in the past, I know that's where the performance is. If you can afford both, however, I have nothing against the roller rockers.
 
gotcha, no cant afford both but am one of those people who loves to get everything done at one time right away as soon as I get things.I am realizing this six is going to be a progressive project though!thanks again
 
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