Possible SEFI Using Ford Ranger 2.3L OHV cam Synchronizer

[cameljockey]

ok
Long Time no post:
I have set my build aside while I save up for more parts like oh i don't know transmission, fuel pump, alternator, starter all the "little things"
If you're interested in the details of my build just search the forum for "cameljockey" "250 ci short block almost done"
I was trying to wrap my head around my fuel injection questions cheif among them being:
How can I get a cam signal so I can feed it into an aftermarket ECU to run fully Sequential EFI?
I posed the question before and the answer I got was a very simple one use a TFI dizzy with a SEFI reluctor from one of Ford's 2.3L motors
So I started searching for the TFI dizy at first and in my ignorance I used the words SEFI and cam synchronizer...........
so I found that the cam synchronizer from a '94-'97 2.3L OHV 4 cyl Ford Ranger is VERY Similar to the Ford 6 cyl and why shouldn't it be?
we're all very familiar with the heritage that Ford used for that motor and so I searched for the part for a week found it purchased it and did a physical comparison with the intent to return it when I was done but……..
They are exactly the same save for two small, easily, remedied differences:
1. The gear needs to be changed because the ford 6 cyl gear has 14 teeth v the 18 teeth of the 2.3L
2. The Shaft is less than a quarter inch longer and it could be trimmed
Other than those two the shafts are exactly alike and accept the same oil pump drive shaft and the same roll pin
So in my mind the following steps would need to be taken to make this fit.
1. Press my Ford small six gear onto the shaft of the Cam Synchronizer
2. Trim the shaft of the synchronizer to the appropriate length
But there remain some questions before I slice and dice:
The construction of this sensor makes it so that the stationary magnet of the reluctor is blocked by the rotating vane for every 180 degrees of shaft rotation at the synchronizer.
Is the rotation of the cam shaft v the distributor shaft 1:1?
I know that the cam shaft spins at half the speed of the crank so
does that mean that the reluctor signal is some value for 180 degrees and zero for the other 180 degrees of CRANKSHAFT rotation?( assuming that the answer to the above question is yes. )
also how many times does the number one cylinder hit TDC for one combustion cycle?(twice right? Once before combustion and once after on the end of the exhaust stroke /beginning of the intake stroke)if that’s true then the 180 degrees should be ok on the synchronizer?
My intent is to start with a batch fire set up using the DUI dizzy from classicinlines and get the motor running properly first then to experiment with the cam synchronizer and a different computer
I will post pictures as soon as I can get them and get hard numbers for the measurements as soon as I can find my vernier calipers.
Thanks for any help in answering these questions,
Keep Sixn’
Dan

 

[addo]

Dan, the cam and distributor remain in a 1:1 relationship.

Also as you questioned, being a four stroke engine the piston for any given cylinder does indeed reach TDC at the two occasions mentioned - this is why waste spark arrangements work fine.

Have you thought about trying to drive something like the Megajolt Lite first, rather than going straight to batch fire EFI?

 

[cameljockey]

So please bear with my ignorance again
according to my research Megajolt is bowling and grippo's solution to controling the ford EDIS system and I thought that the EDIS system fired the SPARK PLUGS ONLY based on a CRANK position input
Hasn't Mega Jolt been integrated into the Megasquirt ECU?

And I also Thought that most SEFI ECU's use a CAM signal to fire the injectors sequentially hence my quest to get a CAM signal

so It seems to me that the Signal from the Cam synchronizer would be non zero for 90 degrees of CRANK rotation and 180 degrees of CAM Rotation.

I just assumed follow the instructions for installing this on the Ford Ranger 2.3L OHV to install it on the Ford small 6 as an initial trial and error approach.
I also need to figure out what each wire does there are 4 pins and I don't know which one is which.
From what I know of basic Electrical Engineering and hall effect sensors 1 pin would be 5 volts signal, reference ground, and a 12 volt input keyed to the ignition switch; but what would the 4th one be?
Are you suggesting that I test the CAM sensor using Megajolt?

I'm sorry for my lack of clarity this post should probably be moved to the EFI section of the forum but it was really late when I posted it and well I was not paying attention my mind was buzzing with all the possible implications of this working
Thanks again, Keep Sixn'
Dan

 

[early ford fan]

are you using the four cylinder inards in the six cylinder distributer?if not is the sixes cap going to fit the four cylinder distributer?dosn't the trigger on the four have four windows and the trigger on the six have six windows?

 

[rbohm]

8) cameljockey, here is a book that you might want to get. the link also has other similar books that would be helpful also. mr probst has a second book on ford fuel injection that covers 88 and later systems, but it isnt listed at amazon.com.

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Injection-El ... 786&sr=1-6

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I did this already (see other posts on 2.3L OHC TFI dissy conversions) 4cyl and 6cyl motors ALL use the same rotor (I think some EARLY cars had a screw on rotor though but all later ones a push on) caps will interchange. just have to change the reluctor wheel to a 6cyl one (a couple 8mm or 7mm screws on top) shaft does not need trimmed as there is clearance in the 200 for it still.

I tossed one together and ran it for a short while on the turbo motor (round the block a couple times until I learn I had tossed 3rd flat towing the car)

one thing.....the 2.3L shaft will only accept a non-SEFI reluctor as all 2.3L dissy motors are batch fire. the reluctors are polarized to fit one a couple pins and holes. one could file fit a SEFI rotor to work or press the shaft apart. I tired pressing a shaft and it gets messy as the top is stamped adn very soft metal.

You cna run a motor on the TFI unit only but a couple things....

1. it does have a start retard. IT IS NOT FIXED!! buddy bought a poorly running turbo swapped 2.3L ranger and turns out the start retard was to hot. The retard is not an offset value but a multiplier....IE you end up with 60 degree or so of retard at 3000rpm.

2. you will have locked timing unless you have an ECU to control it. MSD does make some compatible timing controls you could use or a megasquirt.

good donors are 3.8L CFI cars. they are batch fire 6 cyl. the CFI unit could be swapped inplace of a 2300 pattern carb pretty easy also. you could also try wiring up the CFI ECU to control timing only (IE hook up some sensors and get SOME timing....will nto be ideal by far but better than locked)

the TFI coil is pretyt hot out of the box (aftermarkets are hotter though) they made lots of different coil brakects for those. I mounted mine (off a 87t-bird) to my shock tower with some self tappers. used a cresent wrench to tweak the tabs a bit.

 

[cameljockey]

Xflow_Fairline et al

your suggestion was a very good one but the idea I am investigating does not involve the TFI dizzy I need to post pics and I do know how it's just that I don't have a camera at the moment :x

The "cam synchronizer" that I am investigating is not even a distributor in the first place. By my best guess it is a hall effect sensor. I measures almost exactly the same as our small six dizzies but it has not cap or rotor. It does have a semicircular metal rectangular vane that passes between a fixed magnet and coil on a cam position sensor that sits on top of this assembly.

The purpose of the cam synchronizer in my mind was to provide a cam position signal in order to control sequential injector firing events using an aftermarket SEFI ECU.

the TFI solution is one that would work I'm sure of that and I think that Xflow_Fairline has proven / demonstrated that. I am merely investigating this as an option.

I have already purchased a DUI dizzy from the Classic inlines website and my intention is to get things running with a batch fire injection set up at first then to experiment later to try an get that extra little bit of mileage and driveability by trying to switch it to SEFI.

I will post pix tonight if I can find a friend with a good camera lol
Thanks for all you inputs Keep Sixn'

Dan

 

[Anlushac11]

What year is it out of?

The early DIS ignition systems in the 2.3L OHC engines were based on a modified TFI signal.

One of the guys on Turboford has a really nice thread on how to modify the setup. Nevermind cant find it now.