i have read that the 264/274 works great on on these heads but am concerend with my bone stock tranny and 67 mustang rearend it might not work well ive emailed inlines a coupeL days ago but havent heard back yet I also hear there headers are a great fit can only afford the stainless though , now the push rods will they be the right size i mean with the head work and decking will this cause a problem? I know its alot of questions but im spending 3000.00 on the motor dont want to screw up and tell my wife oh well ha ha
QUESTIONS ON 200 REBUILD
- Thread starter tikitime
- Start date
The 67 Mustangs have the C4 with a select shift valve body is a very good trans if its still shifting good and the fluid still is nice bright red should be in good condition. 
If you want to help it some more I all ways add a shift kit to them and a trans cooler in series with the stock one in Rad. Even for a stock engine all you will need to be good to go. 
What rear gear ratio do you have check the door tag? A 3:0 is ok or even better is the 3:20. 
If you want to help it some more I all ways add a shift kit to them and a trans cooler in series with the stock one in Rad. Even for a stock engine all you will need to be good to go. What rear gear ratio do you have check the door tag? A 3:0 is ok or even better is the 3:20. I agree with Bubba, a c4 trans is very strong as long as the it's reguarly checked, the tranny cooler does help, I used to have one and never used the rad cooler. i deffinetly recommend one if you have AC.
the rear end sure sure is 'weak' but most of the time it's refrenced weak only because it's one wheel driven, i think these rear ends are just fine as a daily driver, but if your wife is worried, you can say your upgrading the brakes on the car and go for a 8inch and with disk brakes upfront...
the rear end sure sure is 'weak' but most of the time it's refrenced weak only because it's one wheel driven, i think these rear ends are just fine as a daily driver, but if your wife is worried, you can say your upgrading the brakes on the car and go for a 8inch and with disk brakes upfront...
If the Question refers to drivability , then its a Don't , unless you put in a higher stall converter., the C-4 is a great trans and strength is not an issue , what is at issue IS low end torque , and unless you bump up the compression , increase the displacement , or put a looser converter in the car it will BE A DOG , from a dead stop , keep a stock or as close to stock cam as you can if low end is important , this is not a 300 + cubic inch engine , so unless its a stick application it will suffer without other mods, it can be a great combo with a cam added , but automatic cars and small displacement require much more than a cam swap !!!
Easy to install , The cam your talking about would raise the rpm range aprox 1000-1500 rpm's , for as good or better than stock low rpm performance the converter should FLASH stall at least 1000 rpm's into the operating range , that would equate to a 2500-3000 rpm Flash stall rating , and yes you can get away with less ( but a stock cam combo would out perform it in a 0-60 test )you need to have a goal in what you want, the down side to all to this is Cost any higher than stock stall converter for a 144-200 engine would be a custom unit ,( they are unique in that the bolt pattern and ring gear combo makes them unpopular) , the 250 guys can buy one for a V-8 Ford 289-302 as an example but for a 200 prepared to pay 500.00-800.00 for such an Item
What cam would you sudjest? I was looking for 150-175 horsepower a weekend car local shows etc not sure what way to go looking for as much power that i can get with what i have to work with have about 3000.00 to spend will have custom inline do my head work headers dui ignition etc any sudjestion needed thanks
For that Hp level , you want as much compression as pump gas will allow , so shoot for about 10-10.5-1 I am not a fan of the DUI , it has its good points , but for the money a Recurved Duraspark with a MSD 6al box will out perform and cost less , port the head and add larger valves , an adjustable valve train and a Solid cam , the one that is in my 250 would work great unfortunatly is a Crane unit that is no longer made , CI has some that will work and I strongly say to use a Solid Grind , NOT a Hyd , its free torque an hp ( and no you don't have too constantly adjust the valves with today metalurgy) ( as much as your budget allows a direct mount 2brl a 350 Holley is what I would suggest , with the Bowel facing the valve cover , yes you will need to fab a cable throttle , again a High stall converter will be needed , unless you only want a sound and looks combo as compared to one that performs as well as it sounds and looks , a Manual Valve Body in your Trans will eliminate the need for a Vacuum modulator and a kick down and the Factory shifter can be modified to work slick ( if you go that route I can fill you in ) rear gears shoud be in the 3.5-3.80 range for , Headers and a good dual system is a must , I think to have the total package will be in the 5000.00 dollar range but you could build the engine and add the externals as money allows
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