removeing engine
- Thread starter tikitime
- Start date
as a general statement, you should choose points as high as possible on two opposite corners of the engine. to make that specific, using a manifold bolt would be suitable for one corner, and find a suitable hole (5/16" minimum) on the opposite corner.
haven't done many of the small 6s myself, but on the 300 i would often use the power steering bracket for my forward connection and on the rear i would remove one of the block-to-bellhousing bolts, and put it in its hole from the other side (it was a through hole), and lift the engine from those 2 points. note that i was pulling engines in this way without any unneeded disassembly, sometimes even leaving the fan, carb, and more attached to the engine, thus making many better lifting points unaccessible.
note that a load leveling bar will make the job much easier (but i have yet to get one)
as for removing the head first, it shouldn't be necessary, but its no harm if you do.
for mounting to the stand, it should be 7/16" bolts IIRC. pull one of the block to bellhousing bolts to find out. length depends on your stand, but i would suggest they be long enough to have 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch threaded into the block.
haven't done many of the small 6s myself, but on the 300 i would often use the power steering bracket for my forward connection and on the rear i would remove one of the block-to-bellhousing bolts, and put it in its hole from the other side (it was a through hole), and lift the engine from those 2 points. note that i was pulling engines in this way without any unneeded disassembly, sometimes even leaving the fan, carb, and more attached to the engine, thus making many better lifting points unaccessible.
note that a load leveling bar will make the job much easier (but i have yet to get one)
as for removing the head first, it shouldn't be necessary, but its no harm if you do.
for mounting to the stand, it should be 7/16" bolts IIRC. pull one of the block to bellhousing bolts to find out. length depends on your stand, but i would suggest they be long enough to have 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch threaded into the block.
sasktrini
Well-known member
I did mine the long way... removed the head, and used head bolts for lifting. Would love to have an anginge lifting / levelling tool like jackfish showed!
Had a big six on the engine stand recently, and the head bolts were the same thread for mounting to the engine stand...
Had a big six on the engine stand recently, and the head bolts were the same thread for mounting to the engine stand...
great thanks ive got the leveler sice ill be pulling myself i knew I could use that ill be pulling the engine without the tranny ill take that out last then to the shop it goes to be checked out and see what else it could use it is a c4
looks like its going to take awhile detailing engine bay but do have a media blaster not sure about them first time but should realy help out will be pulling steering box to replace with flameing river unit but not sure if i have a rag joint shaft or a one oiece , not sure i could get one piece out unless its ok to cut shaft anything to help that non power steering would help
looks like its going to take awhile detailing engine bay but do have a media blaster not sure about them first time but should realy help out will be pulling steering box to replace with flameing river unit but not sure if i have a rag joint shaft or a one oiece , not sure i could get one piece out unless its ok to cut shaft anything to help that non power steering would help
for the blaster to be effective, you have to start by removing all the caked-on grease and similar trash, as such materials will stick to the media instead of being removed.tikitime":1fjgxejr said:
also note that the blaster will remove the paint, and require you to primer and paint the blasted area.
and dont forget to wear some kind of respirator to prevent you from breathing the media while you blast it, or you'll be sorry!
so you should start with some kind of degreaser in the engine bay. the poor-man solution is gasoline, but experience tells me that you want to protect yourself, at a minimum with good chemical-resistant gloves and good ventilation. ask me how i know!
Ill use kind of degreser , dont trust the gas got a friend with some nasty looking arms from useing gas as a degreaser
ill prime and repaint when done any sugestions on a good paint ?? ive seen some good jobs done with a rattle can but I could also spray it with a good 2k paint just wish I was good enough to shoot the whole car :rolflmao:
ill prime and repaint when done any sugestions on a good paint ?? ive seen some good jobs done with a rattle can but I could also spray it with a good 2k paint just wish I was good enough to shoot the whole car :rolflmao:
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