replacing 200 head

[Anonymous]

i am rebuilding a mustang for a family friend, i dont know much about the inline sixes and when i had the engine rebuilt, the machine shop told me that the head was in pretty bad shape and it would be better to get a different one.
i have been told all kinds of stuff about what heads will work, and now i am totally confused. i know you can make anything work that you really want to. but what is cheapest solution. money is a huge problem. it is a 66 200, and i cant find another head for it, im sure there are a lot out there, i just dont know where to look or what will work. any advice on how to get a good head that will just bolt in place of the other one would be greatly appriciated

andy

 

[JackFish]

A head off just about any 200 six you find will fit, but look for something off a 78 or later Fairmont, Zephyr, Futura, or truck/van. I picked up a head at the local junkyard for $35. I had to pull it myself, and it had some problems to be corrected. Slight warp, worn guides, a cross-threaded bolt. I'm having it rebuilt mostly because I want a more powerful camshaft which requires heavier valve springs. Anything beyond "stock" rebuild and you will pay more for parts. There are shops that already have rebuilt heads for which you can exchange yours. Look under engine rebuilding in the yellow pages if you're in major city.

I am wondering if the engine was rebuilt, why would they not do the head?

 

[LameHoof65]

I priced a stock rebuild here in OKC and the guy wanted almost $500.00. I went to the local pull-a-part and I have picked up about 5 of them for less than a $100.00. 2 were experimental and are just for me to tear up and see what's inside, one I botched by trying some welding on it and the other 2 are for my build. Do like Jackfish and find a place with the Fairmonts I am sure you will be able to find a pretty good head. What I look for when pulling a head:

1) Any exhaust flange bolts missing
2) has some one else tried pulling it before
3) Is there any antifreeze visible under the valve cover
4) Any holes in the block
5) Any stripped or busted studs/bolts
6) Of course any visible cracks in the block and/or the head
7) Once head is off any burnt valves, antifreeze or oil in cylinder

Out of the five only one was cracked. Oh and a 250 head will work too. the 200/250 are basically the same head.

 

[addo]

Andy, there's also a Topic right near the top of this Forum titled "144-250 head swap FAQ" that wil reveal a few more details for your situation to be best resolved. This may help to not finish with something less in performance, than you started with!

Regards, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

I have a 200 head laying here you can have. It just needs a couple exhaust bolts removed (easy out). Where are you located?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Andy:

And welcome to the six cylinder adventure in keeping things straight.

The '78 and later head has several advantages over the '66 head; larger intake valves and intake tract, a larger carb bore and hardened valves seats. The down side is its larger chamber of about 62 ccs as compared to your '66s chambers of about 52cc.

As Adam said, read the sticky at the top of this forum to determine the need for milling to maintain, at least, stock compression ratio. A three angle valve job and back cutting the intake valves is cheap power, as long as the head is at the machine shop.

Also know that the '66 carb and distributor are married in that they are designed to work together. If you can find a complete donor vehicle you would be wise to take everything from the air cleaner down to the head gasket AND the Dura Spark II electronic ignitions system, which includes the distributor, plug wires, coil, module and all wiring harness.

The Carb will require converting to a cable throttle linkage system or fabricating a mechanical linkage.

If staying with a stock appearance is important to you, go with an Autolite 1101 from a '69 250 Mustang. It will be compatible with the new distributor, use stock linkage and air cleaner. You may have to find the correct or fabricate the adaptor between the carb and head.

You may want to maintain the exhaust manifold from your '66 head as it is much cleaner of bungs and taps that the '78 and later manifolds. Check it for cracks. If it is sound, have it milled for a true mating surface before bolting it up.

 

[Anonymous]

thank you guys for all the useful information, and the offer on the head, but i am in idaho so i dont think it would be too practical and i found a good head off a 66 mustang 200 that had just been rebuilt and had hardened valve seats, 3 angle grind. it was at a mustang shop in some tiny town in oregon. on my old head, the valve seats were 2 sizes too big and had been cut into the water jackets, and it was cracked between the valve seats in 2 cylinders, plus another crack. thank you all again.