Welcome to the Ford six site yes it's a job that can be done in the car and not too hard! You need to be able to drop the oil pan, then unbolt the torque convertor and side it back towards the transmission. Loosen up all the main cap bolts doing each a little more as you move towards the rear main, plus the rear main cap gets removed. Mostly the job can be done with a set of basic hand tools, a torque wrench, and the addition of a handy little tool called a Sneaky Pete that is if yours still has the original rope seal and you plan to install another new rope seal. If you happen to have a neoprene rear main seal or plan to install one its even easier and then you don't really need the Sneaky Pete tool. Good luck
WELCOME !
to our sand box, Y not stop'n play awhile.
Lotta good guys here w/extensive experience they're willing to share.
I'll B watchin for ur results on UTube!
(Don't 4get to pull the pin at the bottom, which is needed to hold in the antique rope, B4 ripin the new 'rubber' seal
when inserting. It's not needed. We have a thread explaning the whole proceedure here somewhere - GUYS?…
HI, x2 that advice. Double check to make sure it is the rear main. I've stopped plenty of leaks just by snugging up the pan bolts. I've seen people think a rear main was leaking when it turned out to be valve cover gasket or oil sender. Good luck
Thanks for all the advice. When I loosen the main caps I am assuming the crank drops down so I can get the top part of the seal in. How far does the crank drop? I Not sure if the rope seal is still there or not, but I will look for the pin. How does that get removed? Thanks again
Gregg
The crank doesn't need to drop much (only about 3/16 of an inch to 1/4) and basically this much at the rear of the engine. The pin will be in rear main cap that is taken off so you can use a punch and hammer to drive it out or use a small grinder to cut out the part that is sticking down into the grove. Good luck
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