replacing valve seals- I6 200

[JHPSTANG]

So I've gotten the engine running pretty good with some carb adjustments. At idle it doesn't smoke really, (except when there is no breeze to blow it out of the garage) but when I rev it I get a puff of light (not white)smoke, so I'm gonna go ahead and replace valve seals while I decide what to do about the brakes. I'm gonna do the rope method which seems pretty straitforward.
I've searched and researched the procedure, and I think I can do it no problem, but...
Will the keepers be self-explanatory when I get to them?
With non-adjustable rocker arms, do I still need to adjust valve lash after this process? (I'm assuming yes, but this is all from books/web research for me)
Of course all this will be put off if my wife goes into labor this weekend, which is possible.

 

[DupleDreux]

Hi JHPSTANG

Changing the seals by the rope method was one of the first things I did too. The keepers are two little half-cones that sometimes stick to the retainers, a pair of bent nose needlenose pliers helps, and be careful how you put the compressor on so it clears both. Usually you can get one, then turn it around and get the other.

If you're taking down the spring assembly, you might want to consider installing .030 or .060 spring shims, they are about a buck a piece and raise the spring pressure back up. Some folks would change to 289 springs and 4.0 retainers too, but I don't know if that's in your budget.

there isn't really an adjustment for the non-adjustable rockers, just .060 longer or shorter pushrods- not sure about availability. Some folks put washers under the rocker towers but I wouldn't. Better to try to find an adjustable rocker shaft and its (hopefully straight) pushrods from a 170 if yours are out of spec.

Hope this helps!

Mark

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back:

Q- "With non-adjustable rocker arms, do I still need to adjust valve lash after this process?"

A- No. Hydraulic lifters can accomodate a range of about .125" of wear. Changing the valve guid seals will not alter clearances.

Longer/shorter pushrods and/or shims under the staunchons are only necessary when extreme machining is done or when extreme cam lift is used, to correct valve train geometery.

IF you're taking your rocker assembly apart be sure to give it a thorough cleaning and inspection- inside and out.

what is the year of your engine?

Adios, David

Adios, David