Ripped a hole in my log ;) (w/pics)

[Alvor315]

Thanks to inspiration from Falcon Fanatic I put a huge hole in my log. Enjoy the pictures. So far I have started it up and it sounds great, but I did the disc brake swap at the same time, and i'm having trouble finding the correct adapters/fittings to make everything work. Hopefully it will be back on the road by the end of the weekend.





Here is the riser my dad and I fabbed, attached to the carb of course.







Movie to come later. Hehehe.

 

[Jmonty]

Cool! Good job. Looking forward to seeing the movie when you get it done.

 

[Bort62]

OMG, one of my buddies from Gilroy has a crush on me????

Looks nice.

 

[aahsac]

Got you beat Ian, I have two buddies in Chandler with a crush on me... and I get to pick which gender!

 

[falcon fanatic]

Looks great! Curious how the idle/low speed performance will be with that one, big hole, though. Probably won't make a difference, but my machinist was pretty keen on having a spacer with two holes to improve the signal at idle & around town. Just another of those things that looks great on paper, but you can never prove without a dyno, some time, and a chunk of money better spent on something else...

 

[burnoutstang]

Did you do this yourself or have it machined? Looks good.

 

[grocery getter]

Nice Work, you're pops did a nice job on that riser.

on the discbrake swap. I was able to get the adapters at carquest, napa and I think one at ace.

mustangs plus has the hard line with the correct fittings for under $20.00.

 

[Alvor315]

Got the adapters this morning at a nice place in Reno. Brakes are working pretty darn well, I like them a lot. So far the car drives exactly like before except for a bad shimy at about 25 mph, so I'll have to wait till Monday and the alignment, before I get a chance to test out the higher RPM. It does sound pretty darn mean now though. I also have to do myself a favor and play around with the carb a little.

The machine work was done by Wolf machine in Sparks, and just down the road I had AIM's machine check out the head before I put it back on the car.

Can't wait to get some 1.6 ratio rockers!

 

[falcon fanatic]

Don't waste our money on the ratio rockers unless you already have a nice cam. In my experience, it doesn't make that much of a difference. Also, the modified head is worth a few hundred rpm at the top end, so if you can get a cam that gives you a taller powerband you'll be better able to take advantage of the nice work you've done. The ratio rockers will, naturally, mimic the powerband of the stock cam when used with the stock cam. Regarding carb jetting, I found a wideband oxygen sensor to be an invaluable tool.

 

[Alvor315]

Actually I had your cam concerns in mind when I decided to do the mod. Right now i have a clifford cam with 280 deg of duration.

Seems right now it's falling flat on it's face. I've been trying to tune it, but as it looks it never had the right (at the least idle) jets installed because I can't get it to even idle without using the throttle.

How much did your O2 sensor cost?

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Take a look at this post. The location of your PCV vacuum source can make a difference. http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=398178#398178

 

[Alvor315]

Does the location cause a problem if it's not connected at all?

I just have it plugged with a rubber cork for the moment.

I'm thinking I should check the vacuum line to the tranny for leaks.

 

[falcon fanatic]

I paid $225 delivered for an AEM wideband (UEGO) kit. Seems expensive, until you factor what a mechanic costs. Of course, that's my justification for everything I buy, but I digress. The kit is complete, right down to the bung you need to have welde into your exhaust (as close to the head as posible).

You carb should idle even if you have way whacky jets. There is a lot of adustment there. The problem likely lies elsewhere.

Some things to consider regarding your idle and the vacuum system: How is your vacuum advance hooked up? You should connect it to full manifold vacuum, not the port on the carb. This makes a huge difference at idle as it brings in about 15* more advance, so you'd be idling at around 26* - 36* of advance at idle, instead of the 12* or so you will have if you are connected to the port on the carb.

Make sure your ignition system is operational. I spent a month grounded chasing an idle problem andit turned out to be a bad module on my DUI ignition. It was only bad below 1500 rpm, so you could start the car and rev it, but it would just die if you let it drop below 1500.

Have you applied the "lean best idle adjustment" technique to get your baseline idle? This should work, assuming you have no vacuum leaks and your timing is good. It will also give you gauge on how big or small your idle jets are/ought to be. Here it is:http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Carburetor_Set_Up_and_Lean_Best_Idle_Adjustment.htm

I hope some of this helps.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Is that a dual advance or Loadamatic distributor? Do chack all vacuum lines and anything connected to them. Check voltage to the coil.

 

[Alvor315]

Sounds like the voltage is the next thing to check. I removed all the vacuum lines and plugged all vacuum holes. The only one left is from the carburetor to the distributor. Did the starter fluid tests; still can't find any leaks. I've been trying the lean best idle adjustment as suggested by the weber manual, but so far to no avail.

I have a distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance w/ petronix installed. I think I have a 50,000 V coil.

The engine will idle just fine below 1000 rpm, but it takes opening the throttle to do so, like it isn't getting enough gas. The strange thing is when I shot starter fluid directly into the intake the engine bogged out. But I can't open the idle mixture jets far enough to get the thing to idle. I guess they may be stuck. Perhaps it's time to rebuild the carburetor? Maybe it's clogged?

 

[Ronbo]

I have a similar set up minus the cam/head modification. I can tell you that my Weber out of the box was jetted way too lean. I think they jet them for the smaller engines. I'm running 65s in mine now and once it is warmed up it runs fine. Its too much carb for what I have. Also, from the picture of your carb it "appears" it was run with too much fuel pressure. Using a cheapo gauge, I'm right at 2.5 psi. Any lower I have problems, any higher It starts to weep fuel in the area yours did. FWIW I still have a fairly rough idle which normally indicates a vacuum leak. Cant find one though My gas mileage went from 20 mpg with the 5200 H/W to 16 mpg with the DGES.


Ron

 

[Alvor315]

If you think the fuel pressure is too high because of the grease you should know that that same grease is also all over the valve cover. I just replaced the old horse hair vent cap on the front with something that should work a bit better. That and the combination of running it around with no hood for several months probably also contributed. I don't think there is anything wrong with the fuel pressure.

Otherwise I don't know how you think it's leaking.

I will keep the jet size in mind though. I'm sure there is enough fuel getting to the carb, but it just doesn't seem like enough is getting into the cylinders.

Out of the box, was your weber at least able to idle on the stock jets?

 

[Ronbo]

Absolutely. But it would bog/stall on acceleration, surge at speed and various other little things. Fuel pressure is an issue with these beasts though. I dont think it would cause it not to idle though. Like I said, it ""appears"" to have had too much fuel pressure. May not be grease, could be fan belt residue sticking to a spot that would hold it? I get that stuff too over a period of time. Hey, what size jets are you running now?

 

[Alvor315]

Well, I took my carburetor apart and cleaned it. Now it's all purdy and cleen. But I still had a problem. So I took the gasket off the log and replaced it with cork. It started to idle then, but horribly. Then I replaced the spark plug wires. WOOOT!!!! Eye gots pou-er.

I still think it's running lean though. When I took it apart I only found one thing that kinda looks like what I would think of as a jet, which surprised me since it's a two barrel carb. The point is it said 45 on it, so I'm guessing that it won't take care of my new found POU-ER.

Who else has the weber 38 dgas? What jet(s) are you guys running?

 

[Ronbo]

Read my first post. In your picture of the carburetor at the begining of the post, it shows a big brass screw in the middle. That is your primary idle jet. On the opposite side in the exact same location is another, that is your secondary idle jet. In order to get "best lean idle" these may or may not have to be changed out. The screw is a holder and the jet fits into the end of it. If you order new jets make sure you pull BOTH out and look at them. They may be different physical sizes on the primay and secondary and the numbers should match. Like I said, I had to change mine up four or five sizes to get it to run right.

Ron