Rod questions

I really don't but I am going to make a VERY powerful 202.7 CI and I want the strongest rods possible for it. :)

Anyone got a line on strong rods for a 200 or are they only available in stock conditioning?

I will get 6K out of hte motor, that's for sure, and it's only 1,000 over what I take it to now...
 
how are you going to spin it up that high? not going to do it on a stock log head and might find it tough even on a modded log head (unless the log is removed)

it would be nice if mike could offer a long rod/piston combo maybe. something with a shorter compression hieght and a longer rod.
 
The '60s blocks had forged rods. The forged 200 rods are pretty stout, too. Stroke length is the primary limiting factor to top rpm, with rod length being a consideration as well. It all comes down to piston speed and piston acceleration (g's).

A 289 with it's short 2.87" stroke and stock rods has always been considered "safe" to 7000rpm, of course the stock valvetrain usually starts to float well before that.

Buick 215s are considered "safe" to 7200, with the same valvetrain limits.

Based on the piston speeds and g's of the above two motors, I get around 6400rpm as the "safe" limit for a forged rod 200. At this rpm, piston speed is slightly higher, but g loads are lower. The bottom is bulletproof, engines like this have catastrophic failures due to rods, usually. To keep the valves on the seats above 6000 rpm, in any engine, requires high rpm lifters that won't pump up full, and strong valve springs.

Rick(wrench)
 
if you boost a motor you don't have to spin it as high.....

spinning that high you are going to want some forged pistons. might as well do two birds with one stone and order a custom combo for what you need.
 
I want to erods to compliment the friggin 7 bearing crank... :)

My original log head will flow BETTER than any of you can imagine.

I am designing the carb stack myself and porting the head and taking in larger valves too... 1.499 dia exhaust and as large as I can get on the intake.

I am porting the complete log not just cutting holes in it like a schoolboy doing an Offy log....

I'll post pictures.

FE
 
FALCONAROUND":3f4q3i1s said:
I want to erods to compliment the friggin 7 bearing crank... :)

My original log head will flow BETTER than any of you can imagine.

I am designing the carb stack myself and porting the head and taking in larger valves too... 1.499 dia exhaust and as large as I can get on the intake.

I am porting the complete log not just cutting holes in it like a schoolboy doing an Offy log....

I'll post pictures.

FE
Click to expand...

Have fun with that.
 
I'll say something slightly contentious.

It's taking the motor in the wrong direction. Like trying to train a dwarf for high jumping, against naturally tall people. The "area below the curve" is better approached by building on the natural attributes of your motor.

Similar misgivings occur with rear gears. One has to throw out the assumptions that work for an eight, as the motor responds differently, in a different bandwidth.

To aim high in RPM, the ultimate killer will be interfering turbulence at the log branches, or exhaust flow. I'm not criticising the project overall, just saying that the approach has to be different.

Cheers, Adam.
 
Adam, that is some fantastic way to say something! I totally agree!

But I want my 200 to turn more than the 4,500 it turns now...

I'm wanting stronger rods for a stronger engine...

Apparently there is nothing out there....
 
8) stock rods can be strengthened by polishing then then shot peening. the polishing eliminates the stress risers, and the shot peening stiffens the surface of the rods. remember to peen after polish. add a set of stronger rod bolts from arp, and the stock rod should handle 7k rpm with no problem. as for horsepower, i doubt that you will be making enough power to break a rod. if you do, then contact a company like eagle and have them build you a set of rods to your specs. understand though that they will be expensive, but virtually unbreakable given the limited maximum power output that the 200 is capable of at this point in time.
 
There might be something for the Oz motors - but chances are you'd have a dangerously short piston crown.

What about aftermarket eight stuff for smaller engines, like the Range Rover? (An area RickW might have an idea on.)
 
I think I can make as much as anyone with a 200 that uses an Aussie head...
I WANT 250-ish, but I understand it will be hard to make 250 to begin with since I only have 200 cubes and (Power adders are for wimps) I will make my goal of a minimum of 200 HP naturally aspirated. :)
 
The mid to later 60's are forged rods. I spin (spun) my modded log head to 6000+ rpms all day long with nothing but a good balance job and ARP rod bolts and a performance balancer.

This is with the 78 cast rods and cast 2.3 litre HSC flat top pistons.

With the new aluminum head I've pushed it to 6200-6300 rpms but anything more than that is pushing the limit with cast flat tops in my opinion... :D :twisted:

Contrary to popular belief, a modded head 200 will make more power if you push the rpm limit to around the 6000 rpm range. I've done it and Bill (WSA111) has done it but noone else has the balls to push a 200 up there.... 8) 8)

Good Luck!

Doug
 
How much power can a stock 200 rod take?
Are there any stronger alternatives when one want's to turn 7500+ rpm's?
Click to expand...

Clifford Performance - or whatever they are called now still list their "Treated" rods. The sales blurb reads:

Fittment: All Ford 200 cid. Description: Our Clifford Super Treated Steel Rods are made from stock connecting rods. These rods have been magnafluxed, shot peened, balanced, as well as resized and bored center to center on a Tobinarp. ARP Bolts are also used.

Here:
http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merc ... _Code=F200

Homepage:
http://cliffordperformance.net/

The Shot Peening is supposed to harden the tensile strength and the magnafluxing and balancing would add confidence to a HiPo engine build. Clifford probably has old stock or farms them out to a go-fast-stuff machine shop who does the work.

[ Please refrain from a Clifford bashing - trolling fest :roll:
It would be great to hear from someone from Clifford's though...]





The legacy Clifford built 250 has them and when the tach passes 5500 I start thinking about those kind of parts ... :shock:


Jack Clifford, legendary six cylinder racer, record holder and engine builder's, performance built Ford 250 six engine- 10:1 Pistons, Clifford Treated Rods, Clifford 272H Cam, line bored mains, balanced bottom end, Torque Plate .070 Overbore, ARP Fasteners, Cloyes timing set, Fisher balancer, 1.88 int. valves, Ported and relieved, Offy 3X1 w/3 modified Holleys, Re-curved distrib., Hooker dual out long tube Headers, the works, a few mysteries...
ENGINERADFROMFRTRT.jpg
 
god powerband everytime i see that engine i wanna drive that comet of yours. Ridiculous that you should be so lucky :P.
 
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