Running far too rich. Could use some advice.

[embergloP51]

Hey all! I've learned a ton lurking on here. No I need to have ask some advice on my 200.

I'm running a mostly stock 1966 200. It's got a t5 conversion and pertronix ignition. Stock carb that was just rebuilt and a new distributor (stock type).

I'm only getting 14mpg and it's spitting carbon out the tail pipe. The plugs are caked in carbon after just a couple weeks of installing them. No matter what I do to adjust the carb it doesn't get any leaner. But, the car drives and runs fine.

Is there anything you guys can suggest checking or changing to make this car run properly?

I've also got some oil on the plugs when I pull them and you can smell it burning in the exhaust. Don't know why it's something I need to look into.

I am thinking about doing the cylinder head mod and installing a different distributer. How much should it cost to have the cylinder head modified for a 2bbl?

I hope that's not too much to address for one post!

 

[bubba22349]

To start with you might pull the valve cover and check to see if your valve stem seals are still intact, also would be a good idea to do a compression check. Good luck

 

[embergloP51]

Thanks! Thinking about what I said earlier, it's actually not driving that great. It really lugs going around corners and under acceleration. I don't know if that would make a difference.

 

[JackFish]

Did you check the float level on the carb?

 

[Route--66--]

I kind of went through this a little bit and in the end realised that it was just cus I was doing shorter journeys!
I suspect you've been on longer runs though!
Just another quicky - have you checked the choke flap is opening when the car warms up

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Ryan:

And welcome to The Forum. I'm on the other side of the great state of Idaho- Idaho Falls. In reference to your problem I'd suggest some more diagnosis, analysis and assessment. If your engine is just plan worn out, possibly indicated by your mention of the smell of oil in the exhaust and caking on the plugs, then not much will be gained by modifications. Bubba's suggestion of a visual examine of the valve guide seals and a compression test is a good place to start. One more suggestion, when you de-cellerate and then step on the gas, do you get a blue puff of exhaust smoke? That would be an indication of worn valve guides/seals, worn rings or other problems associated with a worn out engine. The more you know about your current engines state the better you can focus future modifications for the best outcome.

As for cost of modifying a cylinder head, it varies depending on local. You should start by checking in the Boise area for a machine shop with a good reputation and a willingness to work with you.

You mentioned you upgraded to a T5 trans. What did it replace? What is your rear gear ratio? What kind of driving are you doing?

Adios, Davd

 

[Econoline]

was it rich before you rebuilt the carb?

 

[embergloP51]

Bubba -
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a shot.

JackFish -
I really don't know how to set the float level in the carb. The directions with the rebuild kit weren't very good but I think I got it set right.

Route 66 -
I do all different lengths of trips. It's my daily driver so I take it all over the place. I'll double check the choke, but it was working last time I checked it.

David -
Nice to meet another Idahoan on here! The engine was rebuilt about 200k miles ago (it's at about 412k now). I don't notice the oil in the exhaust when I'm driving but my dad did when he was following me. Said it did it when I accelerated. There isn't oil on every plug but on a few of them there is when I changed them. I'll be sure to check the seals and compression.

The t5 replaced the stock 3 speed. I don't know how to determine what my rear gearing is, but it's stock whatever it is. It's mostly just running to school and work plus a little fun stoplight to stoplight. We've got a local track that I may take it to for fun once and a while but no serious racing.

Econoline -
Yea, that's the whole reason I tried rebuilding it. It was purchased recently as a reman carb and I think it's been rich since I bought it.

 

[chad]

Welcome Ryan!
You seem like some 1 who'd like to figure things out. To find a rear end gear ratio w/o looking at the metal tag affixed to the 'chunk', the ID tag on the door or under the hood, or contacting the manufacturer:
Place a mark on the drive-shaft and one on the wheel. With someone looking under the jacked up and 'blocked' (safety is all ways 1st!) car rotate the wheel and count the drive-shaft revolutions and compare. For example 40 rotations of the shaft with 10 rotations of the wheel is 40/10 or approx. 4.10. My "truck's" ratio...
Stay in-touch!

 

[embergloP51]

Hey Chad,
Thanks for the tip! I've got 3.20:1 rear end. I may do the marks like you said, but my Dad has owned this car since 74 or 75 so I know it hasn't been messed with.

Ryan

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

What is the Fuel Pressure ?

 

[embergloP51]

FalconSedan -
I don't have any way of testing it right now. I'll have to get a gauge.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

If you have a Hand Held Vacuum Gauge you have what you need , All I have ever seen have a pressure scale , just tee in before carb and after pump

 

[embergloP51]

I don't have one of those either! I'll pick on up and check it out.