Running H-O-T-T Hot

W

WornTired

Well-known member
Heres the scoop. 83 engine, 85 C5, 3 core radiator, 180 Thermo, 16lb Cap, 5 degrees advance, spark plugs gapped. I'm running 195 on the highway and it heats up to over 210 in town, but I shut it off at 210 so who knows how hot it'll get. Any idea whats going on? Its got an alt conv. and duraspark II. Everything is hooked up right. Please help ASAP, I have to take it on a 7 hr trip in two days. Thanks, David

PS Its all new and installed right

Also has clifford 2v adapter w/ stovebolt special
 
Didn't you have alot of problems getting this engine running? What was wrong with it?. I see you have a 3 core rad, is it new, may need cleaning? Could be running lean if you have a vacumn leak or the 2v is not jetted right. Did it just start this? Are you running antifreeze? If so in the right proportion? Glad to see another Big Bell out there.

don

Also did you have any clearence problems with the fan? I had to go to a pusher in front.
 
Yeah, I had a bunch of problems. One after another. I ended up getting a regulator and that solved the final problem. its a new 3 core. The vacuum is running from the dist, carb, and trans. Thats all of them. The 2v has the two screws on the top 3/4 out. I think thats everything. The fan is a pusher, so I got a bigger one then I needed. I think thats it.
David
 
They're an off white. I don't hear any pinging at WOT. I'll adjust the carb and see where that gets me. I'll slow it down a bit too. Thanks.

David
 
This may or may not help your current problem, but should help your tranny. Get a good transmission oil cooler, and run it in line with the lines to the radiator. :wink:
 
Do you have a spring in your lower radiator hose?

Maybe try advancing the engine a little.. if you are at 5degrees you could push that three at a time forward to see if it starts easier and try the temps there too.. if it pings back it off and leave it where it pings no more. If you do this you will then have to drop engine speed and compensate with the Air mixture.

Did you set your mixture with a vacume gauge?
How are you vacume readings?

Sounds to me like it is more likely mechanical than coolant related. specially since you replaced most of that.

Make sure your chokes are open all the way.

Some of these are little things, but then I find those to be the culprit most of the time...
 
If you have a pusher in front of your radiator that could be the problem. I was talking to Phillip Cook who used to work for Clifford and now works for Perma-Cool about fans. I have a Perma-Cool 2950 cfm electric and he said that is still not enough even being used as a puller. He suggested I keep my stock fan and use the electric as a pusher helper fan.

So if 2950 cfm is not enough for a puller than the pusher you are using will really not be enough.
 
try installing a 160 degree t-stat. You may also want to drill a small hole in the flange of the t-stat to vent steam. I did this with mine and the temp very seldom goes over 190 now. most of the time it will run around 150 degrees.
 
Ideally you should fix the problem and try running the 180 first.. if all else fails go with the 160, but put the 180 back in during winter.

running at 150 constantly is probably not a great temp. 180-190 is best for economy but stay under 200.

I was running at 155 for a while and had oil pressure trouble and ate a lot of gas. After getting my timing dialed in I was even at 180-185 with the 3 row and 17" flex fan. Even in Atlanta in July with 98 degree weather and 100% humidity.... 8)
can get hot in an hour of traffic stop and go....
 
Winter it will run 150 to 160 with the 160 degree t-stat. Summer time it will run 160 to 180. This is with a new radiator, hoses and everything working right with the cooling system. In my opinion these motors have a tendency to run on the warm side to begin with so dropping down in t-stat size from 190 to 160 does not hurt anything. As for fuel econ. I never noticed any difference although that has never been a issue. Plus I dodn't see how it could effect oil pressure. So once again in my opinion if everything on the cooling system is in good working order. drop down to a 160 t-stat.
 
If you are overheating at low speeds, here are some things to check:

1) Radiator hoses. I don't suspect this as a problem as you are fine at higher speeds. Radiator hose problems usually occur at highway speeds.

2) How old is your thermostat? If it is old, it may not be opening completely.

3) Water pump may be dieing. It may not be moving enough water. If you are traveling at highway speeds, then the flow across the radiator may negate this by cooling the water enough. At low speeds, you water pump is more important then the flow of the radiator. That's what I suspect is a problem.

4) Something that may help is a radiator fan cover. That helps at low speeds, but you may not be able to get one before your trip.

5) There is a possibility of radiator being cloged or something else on your cooling system.

here is the order I would replace stuff:
1) Drain and flush the cooling system and a cooling system cleaner.
2) While the fluid is out, check the thermostat. It's worth the $1 gasket to make sure that is the problem.
3) If the thermostat looks good (test it in hot, boiling water with a thermometer so you can see what temp it is opening at) I would suspect your water pump is dieing.
4) Recheck your timing...just to be sure it isn't to retarded. 5BTDC sees a little low, but I don't know about the newer enginess. Autos usually need around 12BTDC.

If everything is operating properly, your temperature sure not get above your thermostat temperature. I can run mine in temps up to 100* and my thermostat still won't get above 180* (which is my thermostat temp). I assume you are running a stock 192* thermostat?

Slade
 
I think the ultimate solution for you and I is to go to the aluminum radiator, If I am correct you do not have enough room on the back to put a fan. I have been fighting this issue siince I put in a/c. Overheating ultimately killed my 170. I don't know what electric you have but you might need a better one. I do know that a pusher is not as efficient. The radiator referenced in this thread is the one I want if it can be had with transmission lines.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4711&highlight=aluminum+radiator
I would go to straight water or try a additive like water wetter since you need to drive it soon.I'm sure you checked the direction the fan is blowing, most are reversible. The only other idea is a shroud on the backside but if the fan is mounted directly to the rad that doesn't seem like it would make a difference.

don

Please keep us posted on your progress.
 
Don, as I think your front sheetmetal is similar to mine, I'll email you a pic of what I did to the "gravel pan". About a 30% increase in potential airflow.

Adam.
 
Well, all the radiator hoses are fine. I didn't check the mixture with a vacuum gauge so I'll try that. Everything else has been done except for the 12 BTDC. I'll try that one too and see what happens. BTW, its running a 180 thermo with a new water pump (and not a cheapy).

David
 
If you are running a 180 Thermo and getting 195, we need to look elsewhere.

For one, replace your thermostat. You can keep the same temperature, doesn't reallyl matter.

How old is your radiator?
How old is the thermostat?
When is the last time the cooling system was flushed?

Advance your timing and I think you'll see an improvement in cooling, but that won't fix all of those problems.

Consider getting a better fan. I hesitate about a better fan, because it is merely compensating for another problem, the cooling systems on these cars is adequate in stock condition, so long as it is in good shape.

Slade
 
Check the airflow direction and strength. Use either a stick of incense or bum a smoke from someone. With the fan running watch the smoke trail flow from both sides of the radiator. It is surprising sometimes, the results you get when you can actually see what is happening with airflow.

The impression I get from your description is that this is the problem. All things being equal, the heat transfer out of the radiator is not happening unless you are moving at highway speeds. The difference between in town and highway situations is the difference in airflow through the radiator. Come to think of it, you may even be running warm on the highway because the fan is blocking airflow from being mounted in front.

Good luck, Ric.
 
had same problem (or similar)...was water pump.

did I miss your checking on the head gaskt?
 
David,

One thing I didn’t see mentioned above, check your heater core. If it’s partially clogged it could be reducing your coolant flow. You could bypass it with a piece of pipe and a couple of hose clamps and see if it helps.
Also there is always the possibility that you might have the thermostat in backwards; we all make mistakes, definitely worth checking.
All things being fairly new, I’m betting on airflow. A more powerful fan and a shroud would help. Good luck.
 
I don't know the prices but

http://www.becool.com/

list aluminum rad's for 60-65 falcon's and Mustangs. I know it hurt's since you just bought the 3 core but unless we can figure a way to move the rad forward and get a fan behind we are stuck. I have considered putting an aluminum in front of the frame with the condensor behind it. If I can find the right size I think it will work and leave plenty of room for a clutch fan. Combined with a shroud it should work great.

don

somebody on here probly needs a good deal on a new 3 core...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MercuryMarc
How hot is too hot?
Replies
6
Views
2K
rbohm
rbohm
B
  • Locked
Idiot's guide to turbocharging the falcon 6
2
Replies
22
Views
29K
AngryEyes
A
A
65 200 ci running hot - Help!!!
Replies
18
Views
6K
I66coupe
I66coupe
Back
Top